davidwort

I fail to see what's funny about a leaking front flange...

won't make much difference over the KR ones, if you can get them cheap enough then it's worth trying the ABF inlet with the KR exhaust cam, might help the head breathe at the top end a tiny bit more.

yep, gsf do them, around 7 or 8 quid IIRC, they also do the front one, which will probably be in a similar condition if you haven't changed it already, they usually come with the seal. If you visit a branch or call they should be able to match the VW numbers below. the side plastic flange is 027 121 145B and the seal is N 902 954 01 front is 027 121 133E and seal 027 121 139A

Worth calling them and asking if they still remap 2L 16v 9A engines. In any case it wouldn't harm to give it a once over and a rolling road session just to make sure everything is working as it should, don't expect miracles, but if they will still remap them and/or there are other issues that need sorting it would make it run much sweeter.

a KR head flowed or not will go on a 9A block, some say the slight casting differences of some of the 1.8 heads (they don't have some of the water channels around the ports the 9A heads do) make them a little better at the top end as standard, but KR or 9A heads are all much the same when ported/flowed. An ABF head is the better standard head, again not major differences but as they are the last development of the 16v head by VW and designed for a higher revving 2L engine than the 9A, they are about the best.

forum group buy on caliper bolts then, just need 250 or so punters :)

9A's don't have a warm up regulator though Steve

I got a guide from vortex once, on how to replace the window regulator, it covered all of this, will try to dig it out. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfg4_front_door.pdf[/attachment:u6nzcx7b] mk4_door_reg_fix.pdf[/attachment:u6nzcx7b]

it makes a good inhibitor for your central heating system, :lol: just don't mix it with Fernox... hang on, we're back where we started.

it's quite tightly wedged in but it does just slide out I've found it does (when removed) very slightly improve the pull from about 5,000rpm to the red line at 7,200 on an engine with a 2L bottom end (flowed head and 1.8 cams) and no holes in the airbox, but if you've already drilled the airbox there's little point in removing it.

yeah, it's just the G12 that was the trouble maker, shouldn't mix that with anything else. G12+ can be mixed as can G12++ but I think I'd rather have all of one make in there

you might even just pop them out with your fingers, just push from the outside to the inside from one corner to the next, mine tend to pop out if I squeeze my fingers in the gap between the dash and the grille edge

yep, but do it gently from different angles with something fairly broad (i.e. not a screwdriver) there are barbed plastic lugs at each corner that need to be popped free of the dash

are you running standard sized disks? how hard do you drive and on what sort of roads?, town/motorway mainly? grooved disks will tend to eat pads quickly compared to the same sized plain disks It really depends what you're after, maximum resistance to fade or the most positive feel in town with cold brakes

only buy G12+ or the latest offering from VW, it's not very expensive from VW anyway so if GSF don't have it go to VW. don't use or buy more G12, if you can still get some, as it mustn't be mixed with anything else so isn't worth the risk. If you only have one litre of G12+ then just put that in for now and fill the rest with distilled (battery top up) water, then as soon as you can get some more G12+ just drain off a litre from your system.

I'd try to put it all back as it should be, the live feed for that switch should come out of the loom on the left hand side of the engine bay around the top of the suspension turret. You may have another fault elsewhere if the fan is cutting in with the ignition off, which really should be properly traced and sorted. I'm sure there's a few of us on here with 1.8's that can help to sort it.

for underbody areas clean back to bare metal and then use a very thin coat of acid etch primer followed by VW underbody rubberised sealant brushed on. Then paint over the top of that.

you need to turn the steering from lock to lock, preferably with the wheels off the ground until all the bubbles/trapped air in the rack have worked their way out and it goes quiet. If you do this 10 or so times and it still makes a noise it may be that the pressure relief valve in the pump is stuck, they can sometimes be freed off by dismantling and cleaning, but it's only really posponing a new pump.

mine didn't misbehave at all this morning :cuckoo:

yep, what you need is the equivalent age passat clocks and then remove the temp gauge and fuel gauge module, this is the exact same part number as the Corrado one so simply use it to replace the module in your existing VR Corrado instrument cluster.

What a buyer is willing to pay for it...

go back 5 posts :) If it's brand new you want, then expect to pay stupid money, if they haven't discontinued them.

Not sure if the temp gauge senders are all the same but I priced one up for my valver yesterday - £30 :shock: that's daft, I'm going to collect a few from the scrappy next time I'm down there, they're not that unreliable and a second hand one would work just fine.

rust, rust and more rust, the spanish have no idea how to build cars. the mk4 polos are prone to corrosion on the sills where the rear quarter is welded to the front of the car, makes them look like a cut&shut.

on the back of the fuse box cover is list of the fuses moulded into the plastic