davidwort

if it's pinking then it will be worst under heavy load, so find a slight upwards gradient, drive about 30mph in top or 4th gear and put your foot to the floor, if it disappears when you start to release the throttle, it's definitely pinking.

I think I've got a reasonable way to check the camber for free :) Perhaps BoostMonkey will check my maths :salute: My 'A' level maths was an :epicfail: I measured my wheel rim diameter lip to lip I know the camber should be about 0.5 to 1 deg So If you make a right angled triangle from the diameter of the wheel and using the 1 degree, say, you can work out the deflection from vertical in mm that you need to make that 1 degree. SOHCAHTOA :geek: - at least something stuck in my head from GCSE maths :lol: Once you've worked that out then a couple of bolts one longer than the other, for the top rim edge (by the deflection in mm you calculated) held/stuck to the edge of a 2 ft builders spirit level and the distance apart to rest on the edge of the wheel rim and you should have a perfectly vertical spirit level. It makes it very easy to quickly check if the camber has altered too, just find some level ground and offer up the level and bolts :) If you do adjust the bottom suspension bolts/camber make sure to bounce the car well to settle the suspension properly after jacking up as un-settled suspension will put any reading way off. I worked out 5mm is about 0.7 of a degree and 7mm about 1 degree top bolt 7mm longer than bottom one climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfcamber-1.jpg[/attachment:1cmem1jn] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfcamber-2.jpg[/attachment:1cmem1jn] s-level-1.jpg[/attachment:1cmem1jn]

similar problem on mine, doesn't seem to be the temp sensor for the gauge or the header tank/header tank level sensor, both have been swapped, it's either a wiring or gauge issue, haven't had time to swap the gauge over yet, I've a spare to rule that out. It is odd, sometimes I just get a few flashes and then it behaves, or sometimes the gauge raises to max now with the light flashing, it's not overheating though, and as you say, turn the ignition on and off and it resets itself and doesn't repeat???

perfectly OK to have both running, the OEM heat exchanger (oil cooler) helps bring up the oil temp from cold which is why it's fitted to virtually all VAG engines of the era, you'll even find it on engines like an Octavia 1.6. I think you need a threaded extension tube longer than the OEM one fitted with the exchanger as obviously it needs to go the extra distance through the sandwich plate to the oil filter.

this might help wheel weight thread

The Haynes data sheet for the 89-92 corrado says -40' +/-20' so that's half to one degree basically.

1.5 is probably a little too much for a 4cyl Corrado I've got mine at just under 1 degree and get no uneven wear and it corners very well That's with 15" 195 tyres, springs that are about 30mm lower than standard, wishbones are about level.

They all look far too black to me, over fuelling? should only have small amounts of light brown deposits over thousands of miles really, not all sooty like that, if it was an oil burning issue I would have thought one or two would be much worse than the others and oily rather than sooty. Needs fault check I reckon, make sure all the sensors are running in spec.

does the radio have an electric aerial out? that's the only thing I can think would affect the wiring differently with the radio on, perhaps this is connected to the wrong dash wire? I'd pull the stereo and check/trace each colour of wire feeding to/from it see which are powered with ign on/off and with dash lights on/off (side and dip)

worth asking Vince Jim, I don't think he's a great fan of 9a's though :) He charged me an hours labour for setting mine up on the rolling road, it really flew on the way home :D but that was on plain K-jet, so as Toad says unless the factory calibration of the metering head has been messed with, the 9A should sort itself out to a certain extent. will be interesting to see if it starts and runs better with brand new injectors though, I've two sets, one with lower mileage on than the ones on the car and I'm hoping to find an old K-jet fuel pump so I can rig up an ultrasonic cleaning bath and spray the injectors into it, apparently that can bring them up like new, spray pattern wise.

rears need a caliper piston wind back tool, fronts just push back.

Ah, fair point, It's The Open University so I guess our private mail is charged to us at the same rate as the organisation's business post, so I guess we are talking hundreds if not thousands of items a day, most will be normal 1st or 2nd class, but I guess the tracked courier stuff is part of the deal somehow. I sent a switch to Sweden a few months back, it was about £1.70 air mail which was less than a small recorded packet I sent 20 miles away :cuckoo:

^^ that's a bit rubbish, anything I post Parcelforce 24 from work, up to 25KG is £5.95 I wouldn't worry much about posting one, they are pretty tough, in fact the only way to break them is to fit them to the front of a C apparently :)

new thick pads will mean the pad/carrier, slider bolts and caliper piston are all working in a position that they haven't been in for quite a while (since the previous pads were new) so they may not be moving freely and releasing properly. best strip them off again and make sure everything is clean and free.

Front wings are a slightly different width and shape to accomodate the 5 stud plus axle on the VR6 and the bonnet line also changed, not the hump itself (the obvious change) but the actual meeting panel gap between wing and bonnet, early and new of either don't fit together properly, they changed all cars 4cyl as well as VR6 in one go in 1992. Rear arches stay the same externally, but the underside lip is cut back a few MM if you compare the early and late, again i guess to give a bit more clearance for the 205 tyres on the VR6's.

well swap them around first, if the temp gauge works OK then you know that sender is working, 3 are the same so just pull them until the gauge drops and use that one.

I'd just get a standard OEM quality clutch, it's not like the 16v torque is going to rip it to shreds :) I've had a standard sachs one from GSF on for years and that's fine, the original VW one did over 100K and was hardly worn when I had the engine and box apart, only replaced it as I was in there anyway.

You're going to cut the number of potential buyers dramatically if the car has an obvious fault when people read the ad or come to look at it. You might be lucky and get a punter who is willing to take a gamble, or diagnoses the fault themselves and is willing to offer you on it. But especially in this climate, if you need to sell, I'd spend a few quid on getting someone to sort it if you want to realise close to what it should be worth.

mk3 golf GTI/16v/VR6 all use the same 280mm calipers and carriers - as long as it's the first year or two of production as the later mk3's use a completely different ATE 288mm caliper and disk for which you can't get a 4 stud disk for for the 4 cylinder Corrados.

I've got the best part of 10 years on GSF top mounts (early type) nowt wrong with those and they've done 50K with hard shocks and springs, in fact I had them off recently to check everything out and there's still very little play in them. No idea if they source from the exact same suppliers now though? I don't think they were FEBI either, might have been. The pattern drop links from ECP look a little spindly though, even compared to the rusty VW ones.

4 x 100 and ET35 seems to ring a bell, original alloys are narrow 6.5J (inch wide rim?) though, most 15's at least seem to be 7J?

I've never been particularly happy with the cable change shift on the Corrado, particularly mine, so I've tried a number of things over the years to try to improve the situation. Thought I'd list everything I've done in one place as I'm fairly happy with it now. Roughly in order of changes: VAG fully synthetic gearbox oil about 25 quid for the 2 litres needed new 2nd gear syncro, took the box out and fitted myself, but the parts and box stripdown was the best part of 200 quid new bushes for the gearlever pivot (3 parts, about a quid each) new gearlever pivot plastic cross piece (only a few quid from VW) post 92 shift weight (as my car was an early box with no weight) post 92 shift tower from a passat (post 92 style tower with redesigned selection mechanism) - some need the bottom bearing/plug to match, others fit the early bottom bearing in the box 15mm pre 92 or 16mm most post 92, also need the 3 point mounting bracket for the cables on top of the box custom nylon shift cable end bushing, to replace the rubber rectangular VW part. and finally, new standard rear and gearbox mounts and a Vibratechnics front (road) mount, the VT mount reduces the engine lift at the front a fair bit and gives a better shift when accelerating hard, no extra vibration as far as I can tell. All the bits add up, the shift is much more positive and 'tight' now, I'm going to try a cut down passat lever plate to change the fulcrum of the gearlever and make about a 20-25% cut in throw (a very cheap short shift conversion), but short of making a mk4 cable system fit the Corrado I think I've got the original setup about as good as it can get.

:lol: TBH I've not really had many issues with pattern parts myself, the only dodgy one being an el-cheapo mk1 headlight that gave next to no beam pattern compared to a Hella one, but then it was about 12 quid brand new :lol: invested in the 25 quid Hella one eventually. Although having said that the GSF rear 16v mount is one to avoid, it would probably last forever though, it wasn't rubber, more like steel reinforced concrete :lol: the engine bracket would have snapped first I reckon... that one went back :) With the breaker bar, I've got a short socket that fits straight to the bar and just clears the wheel nicely, wouldn't want to add an extension in there like you say.

321 498 203A that's the one, the kit is a GKN one from GSF and actually I'm pretty impressed with the quality, I really needed to do the job on Saturday pm anyway. Some serious jumping on the breaker bar to get the hub nut undone - nobody else to blame though, I did it up last time :lol: The GKN boot itself has a protective lip (bit like a tyre rim protection bead) which seems to be designed to help protect against stones etc getting in between the boot and wishbone and causing the sort of damage I've just suffered from :roll: Now I know why mk3's, passats etc have the plastic guard on the front of the wishbone :lol: it looks like that extra ring is a locking ring for the CV joint for some early mk1's like you suggest, speaking to my dad over the weekend he says this type of ring is used on a variety vehicles, can be a PITA to fit and he said the same thing about generic boots, could well be used on something other than VAG. anyway, job done for the MOT again, and I've also got a front VT engine mount on now - much liking the gearchange :D

:lol: it's supposed to do that, it's just an idler pulley to deflect the alternator belt. If you weld the pulley up it may wear your alternator belt prematurely as it will possibly slip a bit, however, I've seen other people do the same and they seem to get away with it. The main problem with this setup (the idler pulley) is that they get quite loose over time and chatter a bit, so in that way Supercharged is right, the late 16v setup which uses several different pulleys is better as it does away with the idler pulley altogether.