davidwort

That 2L turbo FSI engine is a great unit, I wouldn't be surprised if they put out over the VW spec of 200bhp and I bet back to back on a rolling road you'd see approaching 20bhp difference at the wheels between it and a healthy VR6, not surprised they can pull away from Corrado on the road. Ever since the early 150bhp 20VT, VW have been putting out very flat torque curves from their 4 pot engines, it seems to be the way all manufacturers are going for al lsorts of reasons, RIP the 6 cylinder :(

Cars aren't built to maintain these days, only to assemble, which is why you end up with stupid designs like the headlight bulbs that need the front bumper removed, my mk4 needs the engine mount removed to do the cambelt :cuckoo: I was in the garage the other day and they had a passat 2.5TDI with the front of the car totally in pieces, I asked what on earth had happened to it, 'cambelt change' was the reply, big old bill for that customer...

what did you pay carriage? seems like you need to go through a whole order process to find out :roll: could do with a mk4 one, the VW ones are rubbish fake leather, fall to pieces and they want about 40 quid for them :bad-words:

I'd still consider replacing that plastic part the selection cable clips onto, it may be breaking up underneath and that's what lead to the nut undoing. I've seen loads that look fine, but when you remove them they are on their last legs, if it breaks the car is pretty much undriveable, it's almost worth keeping a spare in the car :)

the connector is here: dieselgeek circlip depends on year, some late ones have a centre clip which has a small locating hole that matches a small round locating pin on the end of the shift lever pivot, a redesign to prevent the circlip moving about and popping off. You need to have a look at the lever pivot under the gear lever surround to check which type you need. also read this

the usual first check is to make sure the circlip on the lhs of the gearlever support pivot is in place, or it slides on it's mounting bar and doesn't transmit all of the left/right movement to the cable, pull up the gearlever surround and have a butchers the shift cable (front rear movement) is not really adjustable at the gearbox end, but a small amount of the left/right selection cable is from the top of the shift tower on top of the box, on post 92 cars a redesign put a stupid plastic relay lever part in there, it's a strange bit of design and the visible bit of it is where the cable end clips onto it, pull up the tab that holds the cable end on and with the cable unclipped remove the nut that holds the plastic piece in place, withdraw it's strange cylindrical bit that slides onto the metal body of the top of the shift tower and carefully inspect the plastic part. It usually cracks around where the nut holds it in place. fairly cheap replacement from VW and has been redesigned a few times as it's so rubbish :)

any reasonable quality 10/40 semi synthetic, Fuchs from GSF is fine.

lol, I think I can see expanding foam under the side skirt.

Megadeth... I've just found an old LP in the loft: So Far, So Good, So What 8)

If it's your day job then I bet you can be pretty accurately 'feel' the torque for most sizes of nuts and bolts, it's not like most torque wrenches are accurately calibrated anyway, particularly the lower ranges. I do like to use the torque wrench when I'm doing my own stuff, mainly because I have a history of under tightening or massively over tightening nut and bolts :lol: My best ever was loosing 3 out of 4 wheel bolts on one front wheel on my mk1, I pulled over when it started wobbling really badly :epicfail:

dragging this issue up again - I can't find the pics at the mo, but for anyone with Eibachs and Koni's, I had two more grooves cut in the damper bodies so I could raise the rear of the car by adjusting the bottom spring plates a bit further than the koni shocks allow. (mine were the off-the car adjustable damping type with only three grooves, but the three are just further apart than the 5 on the Top Adjustable type - same range of height min to max) It's been running like this for several months now with no problems and the front/rear height balance is just right. I do have a 16v, but if anything it should run higher at the front, probably why on mine the front wishbones are just slightly pointing down (which is good).

try straightening the steering wheel :lol: ...sorry :| what wheels do you have on?, is it possible one has been replaced with the same design but a different offset? the 'ET' (offset) mark should be cast somewhere on the wheel.

only one thing you can do in those situations - don't make eye contact! :help:

if you search around (web search) there are a number of steering rack suppliers that do refurbed rack for around 150 quid upwards, GSF and Euro Cart parts should supply them too. Results vary though, although they may come with a 12 month warranty they are built from used parts that are 'within tolerance' and a fair few people have experienced early failures from them. If you can find one, a low mileage pre 2002 ibiza cupra rack/ or pre 97 toledo 16v is the same, as is a mk3 GTi/16v/VR6 rack, other seat/polo/golf racks are similar but slower/lower ratios.

oh, and you've got the added complication of a secondary electric water pump on a VR, which I think is mainly to circulate water after the engine is switched off?? - perhaps someone else can confirm.

This is the behaviour I'd expect: Run a car up to temperature (mid way on the water temp gauge, and over 80 deg oil) and let it idle. Then let the radiator and hoses both get hot if it's a cold day and the thermostat has partly shut off the radiator. Leave it idling, the temp gauge should move slightly over the mid point and then the low speed fan will come on. IRO 95 deg water temp. The low speed fan switch is usually around 95 degrees, switch on point, and will switch off a couple of degrees below that. As the gauge settles back to mid-way the slow speed fan should switch off, so the needle should not undershoot. Oil temps can be a little higher when idling, particularly after a good run as the heat tends to build up in the head (where the sensor is) when there's no airflow from driving. The only time the high speed fan should come on is after a hard drive when you pull up or reduce speed to a crawl, if the airflow when driving is not sufficient to cool the engine then no fan is going to spin fast enough to aid the cooling. At normal driving speeds I'd expect a cold engine to come up to temp in about 10-15 minutes and 5-10 miles driving, if the car still has the water/oil heat exchanger (and not replaced by just an oil/air cooler) then water and oil temps should be fairly well balanced and run with each other, oil lagging behind in the warm up phase a little until fully up to temp, at which point the water will cool the oil, so water temp may lag oil temp rises. Again, in normal, or even hard road driving conditions, water and oil temps will stay fairly well balanced with the oil temp rising furthest, dragging up the water temp a little from time to time, but generally the water temp will stay between mid and 3/4, some cars hardly move above the mid mark. If the water temp needle makes it up to the top of the scale and the LED flashes then you either have a duff water temp sensor, a broken or disconnected wire or connector to the fan (or bust fan motor), a stuck shut stat, or a more serious failure of the engine or cooling system. I'm also pretty convinced that elderly wiring and dash units can give some strange behaviour, sometimes affected by ambient temperature as resistances increase and decrease. God, that was a ramble :roll:

I think you'll get far more info from searching the Club GTI forum and posting on there. From what I've seen (rolling road days etc.) I'm not a fan, at least on a car that already has K-jet in place. Carbs seem to drink loads more fuel than K-jet and I've yet to see one perform as claimed, a friend is fitting carbs to a bare shell respray mk1 16v he's building, easier and tidier looking install seems the main reason... we'll see how it runs when it's done :)

here we go: pipe.jpg[/attachment:16ezja8f] :shock: :lol: it's OK I think my price file is corrupt.

nope, but if they have, it's just a case of supporting the engine and fitting new bolts through the starter and gearbox into the mount bracket.

dodgy dash gauge? I assume the dash all works on 12v, in which case it should be possible to directly wire a second hand temp guage module to the senders to compare readings. I think I have a VDO water temp gauge somewhere, definately got a spare passat dash and that has the same water temp unit as the C, if you don't get it sorted before, I'll bring it along to a meet. Need to rig up something similar anyway as I occasionally get a spike on the gauge as the engine is warming up which is far too fast to be a genuine temperature increase, it drops back down almost instantly too, another weird one :)

he's got a new VW rad on it :? worth flushing through with a hose to make sure though?

Didn't see one today. Didn't see one yesterday. Didn't see one the day before yesterday. Didn't see one the day before the day before yesterday. Didn't see one at the weekend. But I did see one last Friday :clap:

I see what you are saying, that's got to be the perfect way of doing it, but we got it undone OK, and didn't over-torque the new one in and I did use threadlock. No troubles though, in reality I think you'd have to be very unlucky to damage the rack itself, I think we put heat on the inner track rod joint to persaude the old joints to come away from the rack too, it's a bit heath-robinson but we had to hold the rack with a pair of HUGE water-pump plier type things to unscrew the track rods as it was swinging on the dropped subframe (but the frame still attached to the wishbones so it only dropped about 20cm) It's superb now though, my final two jobs to get my steering perfect, the new inner track rod joints and a fixed position steering column to take the worn height adjuster out of the equation, it's so responsive and precise now :D

new track rods is def the way to go, removed loads of play from my steering perfectly OK to do with the rack in place but getting onto it is a bugger because of limited access, you need to get a big old spanner on the hex/flats of the inner joint of the track rod onto the rack, I dropped the subframe slightly to do it which helped with access but the rack and subframe moves about a bit then when you try to undo the rods. All done now though and very glad I did, whack loads of copperslip onto the track rod end adjusters to help with any future adjustment I got sick of attempting to free them off with a blow torch(oxy/acet welding jobby too!), eventually they got so bad even that barely gave any movement, but they were 18yrs old :)

the early and late shelves are different aren't they? the early one on my 16v never moves or makes a noise even when I had stupidly firm dampers on the back, I wonder what's going on then, does the late shelf not have the raised shape on the edge where the foam buffers touch :shrug: or are you guys all supporting wopping great speakers in the shelves, cutting holes in genuine corrado shelf :nono: