davidwort

push factor on the drive :lol: my Corrado is about the same as my 4 door mk4 with the 1.6 engine, air con etc, that has a kerb weight of about 1200kg or so, I reckon the valver must be about 1200kg with fuel and fluids, which is about what the original VW figures suggest, i.e. the VR is about 100kg more than the early 4 pots, not just engine, there's a bigger rad/coolant capacity, oil capacity, brakes, plus axle...

just looked on the German volkswagen site and the mk6 GTI is about 20kg lighter than the outgoing model, but I guess that could be down to options rather than engineering improvements, still a heavy bugger. that's all including 75kg driver and 90% fuel (is that about 120kg extra from empty then?) was the 1150kg for the early 4 pot Corrados and 1250kg for the VR, empty or kerb weight? (fuel but no driver)

I thought I heard somewhere that the 2.8 v6 had an alloy bottom end? I'm surprised the R32 is cast iron, must weigh loads with the full 4WD transfer box and 6 spd then...

for the sake of drilling out a couple of shear bolts and a pinch bolt to the rack UJ why not just remove the whole column, I had to do this anyway when I changed to a fixed column and it makes it a darn sight easier to work on it when you can turn it around in a vice :) doing it this way I had no need to remove the drivers seat and the column came out from start in 15 mins.

grab yourself a VW haynes manual that covers a golf GTI or passat, all this era of VW rear disc have the same setup. you need to prise off the centre cap, remove a split pin and undo a nut. just pipped!

and the rest! the Corrado is just raided parts bins for the mk2 golf and Passat :lol: they used the best bits though 8)

what's your engine? - stick some details in your sig, saves questions :) the front mount is pretty easy, it's only a couple of nuts and all you need to do is support the engine with a block of wood and a jack under the sump. if somewhere does do it for you it really can't be more than 30 mins labour (min charge at most places)

my dad had a b2 estate before his A80 and A6, these were great cars, basically an audi as they had the lengthways engine and box, audi suspension struts, the 5 cylinder was a bit thirsty but the 1800's went surprisingly well, especially the one we had with a big valve flowed head :D I learn't to drive in that too. only reason he got rid of that was he went into the back of someone, otherwise he'd probably still be driving it today. I do like all the passat estates, great load luggers and apart from the B3 plastic nose they've all been fairly good looking cars for their era.

seems a bit expensive, not sure what's wrong with copper though? easy to work with a lasts forever :confused4:

you should try a 1.8 16v KR passat estate, we had one of those long ago, went OK over 4K, but god did take a while to get there if you were in anything over 3rd :lol:

it's a little odd but according to etka all the 'facelift' passat estates changed to a 3A9 part number (3A9 511 105D) for rear springs whereas the others use a 353 511 105A number. But, the 1988-93 GL/GT estates use the SAME number as the post 93 saloon including GT ??? 333 511 105A I reckon any one will do, looks like they might have stiffened the rear of the late model cars.

tyres tyre pressures alignment and camber all rubber mountings/bushes including engine mounts steering column (fixed column gives far better feel) renew all the running gear components like track rods/ends ball joints, bearings

I'm sure this has come up before, can't remember where though :? I'm pretty sure it's fine to swap the senders around, the late housings have 3 drillings, only two used on a 2.0 valver not sure about the G60, but on other vag cars I know 2 pressure senders and one temp sender are used in the 3 drillings. The housing changed on the 4 cyl blocks to incorporate a new valve inside, possibly pressure relief from a blocked filter :shrug: the pressure senders aren't both on the same side of this valve inside but as the pressure ratings of the warning senders are both quite low and not that far apart, 0.3 and 1.3 bar -ish, and they are for warning of pressure below each of their values at different rpms, then I can't see it being an issue, after all, plent of blocks have the pressure senders in totally different places, like on the end or back of the head.

I think that when screwed into the housing the sender is in the direct flow path of the oil, put it in a pressure sensor adapter and it's in a 'dead end' as far as the flow goes, which isn't a problem for a pressure reading. If possible keep the temp sensor directly in the filter housing and move another pressure sensor into the T-piece, along with the variable sensor for the gauge. My best guess anyway :shrug:

yeah, I think you're right, bit crude enrichment though, one hole drilled into the no.4 end of the inlet.

I think the casing, or part of the casing, is unique to the G60, but the internals, bearings, windings and diode plates are the same as other similar aged VW's with the same rated bosch units, I've put 8v internals into a 16v casing for example.

looks like a very thorough refurb :salute: shame it's getting to the point we have to have parts fabricated as they become obsolete, but at least a lot have been available this long I guess.

when I said tighten them up a bit and then back off I didn't mean swing on a breaker bar :) , sorry should have made it clear that I just nip them up a little beyond the point they should be set at (i.e. just past the point the washer can be moved with gentle leverage.) when pushing the new ones in you can simply use the old races as a drift (as said above really) you dont use a screwdriver or punch to drive them in, just a big hammer tapping the top of the old race to push the new race firmly home. the punch is used for drifting the old ones out (if you're not changing the disc) and popping the old race out when you use it as a drift for the new one - BTW put the old race in shoulder first when using to push the new one in or you'll have nothing to get the punch on to drift it out again :) I totally agree about the care you can give assembling them that a garage doesn't, if you think about pushing in the new races, the smallest bit of dirt could lead to the race not being pushed home quite right, doing it yourself and taking your time you can clean everything down spotlessly or certainly better than a mechanic who I'd imagine will tend to just whack the new bits in.

Well hopefully without upsetting my mechanic I will pass your wise words on :grin: I completely agree with all of the above, exactly what I've done and my GSF supplied bearings have always lasted fine, I ask for the Best Quality ones and not the cheapest they have too. I fit and adjust as descibed above, but find that if you tighten them a bit too much and slacken a few times that helps to settle them in, otherwise you can end up with them too loose. It's always a good idea to check them again for adjustment after a few miles are on them too.

I can't see you could use a different bearing without having a different type of stub axle on the back? All mk2's and mk3 golfs have this type of (mk2 golf style) bearing, I don't think a mk4 stub axle would fit onto a mk2/3/Corrado rear beam, but they certainly have a different design of bearing.

It's not until you take these cars right to pieces that you realise all the small differences between production years and models, even the bare shells have differences. Then you've got potential insurance issues with a modified car vs standard VR6. It's much like the old threads on Club GTI etc about turning a golf driver into a GTI. Of course if you have both complete vehicles already (totally complete donor car) and the doner VR has an unrepairable/uneconomic to repair shell and plenty of time on your hands it's obviously possible.

just a bunch of metal clips, can be carefully levered off.

result! :clap: I'm glad I kept that old faded light unit now, only had it ten years in the garage :lol:

Well something is draining the battery, it must be the alarm/immobiliser and or radio, can't you isolate these circuits or fit a battery kill switch terminal on the battery itself to cut all power. I don't think it causes the KE jet ECU any problems to be totally disconnected from power, it's not like it's a 'learning' ECU or anything, I'd imagine the only problems would be with radio key codes(if you have one) or being able to separately isolate the alarm/immobiliser if you only wanted to do that. I'd expect a good newish diesel capacity battery to last a couple of weeks with the car not being run (~70Ah battery) For a 55Ah battery you need about 0.1 amp or 1 Watt drain on the system to kill the battery totally in about 2 weeks. If you can give the battery a few hours boost every week, that should be OK for the battery, ideally you want to drive it for at least 20 mins every week though, you should be doing this to keep oil all around the engine anyway and to evaporate any condensation out of the engine too.

Don't believe the MFA, particularly on the 16v, only way to tell for sure is fill it to the brim, drive about then brim it again and work out mpg from the mileage you've done. Having said that the 16v is rubbish around town and when doing short trips and cold weather, the injection system and gearing all work against you.