davidwort

all corrados seems to be the same numbers for left and right ends 191 419 811 left and 812 right these are mk2 and mk3 parts for all PAS cars ignore me, that's track rod ends :roll: ball joints are diff part no.s on VRs, but not sure of size, I think it's just the bracket shape they are mounted on.

yeah, you have to lower over 35mm to get the wishbones level (on an early valver at least) no spring caps are going to go that low on their own

I fitted JOM ones on my valver to cure the slightly low rear end with eibach springs, the Corrado ones only lower about 10mm as the standard ones are already lower than mk2 golf caps. The problem I had was they took the front wishbones to just under level with the eibach front springs, I ended up reverting to normal caps and cutting a new higher spring baseplate groove in my rear konis to raise the back a little more. I think most aftermarket springs lower more at the front than eibachs though, which is probably why eibach decided to go no lower than they did (wishbone angle).

I'm pretty sure these are 50% reduction, which I personally think is a little too much for the cable change system, it's basically a cut and re-welded standard part moving the pivot point. I looked into doing this with a cut and re-welded passat lever which I fixed in position without having actually cut the bottom part to fit the cable, it would give a 25-30% reduction which I reckon would be a better compromise.

there wouldn't be any point as there's no key to turn to activate the central locking :)

astonishingly better, OK, I've done front and rear bushes, top mounts, ball joints, track rods etc over the past few years but the car has done 165K and has the original front bearings (one is starting to get noisy) and original rack and rack to column UJ. It's so much more solid and has much better feel, I wish I'd got round to doing it a year or two ago it makes the car so much better to drive. I thought it would improve things, but I was hoping to just get rid of the play when you swing on the wheel, I didn't expect the feel to be so much better to the road, you just want to continually dart it from side to side :D

see my fixed column how-to thread :)

part 2! now you need to drill the shear bolts that hold the column to the dash mounting, the top two need to be drilled, the other two should be hex head bolts, remove these after drilling the shear bolts out! Book1.pdfshearbolts-to-drill.jpg[/attachment:2hh4nxsi] carefully drill these out, unbolt the hex bolts and the column will drop down once your column is off the car it should look much like this next to the fixed column: stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfcolumns.jpg[/attachment:2hh4nxsi] remove the bottom bearing from the adjustable column by gently prising the thin metal lip around the bottom of the tube, go round in small steps and it should pop out, you don't ned this bearing (although it is the same as the polo/fixed column one) but you do need the sleeve under it. prising out the sleeve you need for the fixed column tube: ETKA Corrado.pdfprise-c-bearing-sleeve.jpg[/attachment:2hh4nxsi] this is important, as the polo tube uses a different sized sleeve, see below: stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfbottom-bearings-and-sleeves.jpg[/attachment:2hh4nxsi] black one is the corrado one, you need to gently push this into the bottom of the corrado fixed tube, I found the lower section of the polo tube ideal for this job! now, when you refit the corrado fixed column, you need to use the polo spring, which is longer than the adjustable column spring: Corrado92.pdfbottom-springs.jpg[/attachment:2hh4nxsi] don't forget to fit the new VW ignition switch into the fixed column before you put it in the new tube, as you can't get at the grub screw otherwise! the 3 types of switch are below, original corraod part number, the polo 6N part and the latest supplied from VW (all black) passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfswitches-side.jpg[/attachment:2hh4nxsi] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfswitches.jpg[/attachment:2hh4nxsi] once the new fixed column is assembled it can now be installed in the car, I found the attaching of the UJ a bit of a struggle as the spring needs to be compressed to allow you to slide the UJ bolt in place, the job could do with 3 hands :) theres a couple of washers that were behind the hex mounting screws for my adjustable column, I found a couple more for fitting all four bolts for the fixed column, it looked happier like that, if you need the column lower then this is the place to pack out the mounting 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfpacking-washers.jpg[/attachment:2hh4nxsi] Parts diagram (from list of parts at top of thread) c-columns.gif[/attachment:2hh4nxsi]

A very worthwhile job, to remove the worn and prone-to-play adjustable steering column and replace with a fixed version. more to come, but for starters: purchase second hand: one complete polo adjustable steering column, '6N' polos, 'mk4' up to chassis no. 6N-V-300 000 (up to around 1995), must be the type with separate UJ bolted up, not integrated UJ (alternatively buy the column, lock housing etc from VW, not hugely expensive (although may be approaching £200 all in now - 2010) but not worth it from the condition of second hand polo ones I've tried, they've got no perceptible wear and the final result on the Corrado is perfect with the second hand bits) Alternatively A new Corrado/Polo steering column and lock housing (exactly the same parts as the polo, only the outer tube, below, is Corrado specific) inner column 535 419 503B lock housing 357 905 851D (also fitted to 1989 on golf mk2's, passats, mk3 golfs and 1991-2000 polos) bottom bearing 171 419 517B bottom spring 191 419 343 top spring 1H0 419 667 contact ring 811 419 548 A clamping washer N 901 824 01 spline adapter sleeve (if you can't get old one off adjustable column) 191 419 514 bolts to replace shear bolts (M8x22mm) N 014 709 1 (you need 2) parts diagram attached to second post one Corrado fixed column tube, this is corrado specific 535 419 563 upper and lower trim, early and late types available from VW for small/large hazard light 535 953 515 upper part (early dash) 535 953 516 lower (early dash) 535 953 515 B upper part (late dash) 535 953 516 B lower (late dash) a new ignition switch from VW if you haven't replaced the original Corrado one before 6N0 905 865 the polo column and corrado tube: Corrado conversion V2 (3).pdfpolo-col-and-c-tube.jpg[/attachment:296llxuk] the fixed trim looks much the same as the adjustable version but is actually a totally different fitment: Book1.pdffixed-trim.jpg[/attachment:296llxuk] remove the polo UJ, you don't need this bit, keep the spring though, it's a different length to the adjustable column one stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfpolo-column-uj-bolt.jpg[/attachment:296llxuk] remove the polo's immobiliser key sensing ring if your car doesn't need it, late models may use one ETKA Corrado.pdfpolo-key-sensor-ring.jpg[/attachment:296llxuk] remove the polo column from it's tube, you'll need to drill off the lock housing to tube fixing shear bolt stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdflock-housing-sheer-bolt.jpg[/attachment:296llxuk] remove polo ignition switch grub screw, you can just about get a thin phillips screwdriver in here Corrado92.pdfpolo-grub-screw.jpg[/attachment:296llxuk] now if you want tpo keep your old ignition key and barrell you need to drill a hole to release the barrell, from both the corrado and polo housing: passat climatronic wiring diags.pdflock-removal.gif[/attachment:296llxuk] it's fairly easy to do, just measure from the edge of the black plastic cover around the key opening and not the start of the main width body of the casing, or you'll be 2 or 3mm out, a slightly larger hole isn't a problem, but I wouldn't go bigger than 4mm climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfdrill-lock.jpg[/attachment:296llxuk] press in the sprung tab through the hole you've drilled and the barrel will slide out 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfremove-lock.jpg[/attachment:296llxuk] now we need to get the original adjustable column out first remove the fuse box cover pegs then cover then remove the 7 or so screws holding the dash under tray in put the steering wheel in straight ahead, remove the horn cover and with a 24mm socket, remove the steering wheel by the centre nut, some nuts have a separate washer, the polo one had an integrated one which is easier for refitting it's not necessary to do this but it gives a bit more room to work, it may be worth waiting to do this until you've got the UJ to column bottom bolt out, see below the stalk connector plugs pull out of the back of the switches as does the ignition switch block, there's both a press in tab on one side and a notch/nobble bit on the other side of each connector block that both need freeing before the block slides out the MFA connector wire is un-clipped from a separate connecot this is the Corrado adjustable column one and is too wide for the polo column, you need the outer sleeve from the Corrado bearing, but the inner bearing from the polo to fit snugly on the narrower fixed column.block part way down the column, there's usually 2 or 3 cable ties to cut to free the loom from the column so the column can be removed the UJ to column bottom bolt now needs to be removed, a 13mm spanner and socket will be needed here, sometimes you may need to turn the steering to get room to slide the bolt out, once the nut is off a gentle tap should knock it free and it can be removed UJ-bolt.jpg[/attachment:296llxuk]

bumped back up again because I've just had a very fruitful day fitting a polo column in the Corrado non-adjustable column tube. Now I know Kev and a few others have done this but I thought I'd add my experience. With a combination of bits from the old adjustable column, the polo column I bought second hand and the fixed position tube, I built up what is basically the factory fit fixed column. All I can say is WOW! the steering is much improved, all signs of play and a disconcerting clunk on tight bend correcting has gone. I'll do a separate detailed write up soon as there's a few things I'd not read about including removing and refitting lock barrels so you can keep your original ignition key. Just been for a blast around a bunch of round abouts and it's very addictive :D that Corrado responsiveness and feel is back again :clap:

I believe the ibiza GTI/cupra of 16v fame is the one you want, before the ibiza changed to the late 2001 model with the electro-hydraulic racks. The part number is probably in this thread as James fitted one to his 24V Corrado, it's the same as the superceeding part number for the 2.0 16v C.

that seems to be the biggest problem with old Corrados, nothing is loaded up at very slight steering inputs from centre and tiny amounts of wear in the column, UJ, rack and any bushings, bearings, joints on track rods etc adds up to that vague feeling. There's been a lot of cars that have had everything apart from rack, UJ and column replaced (fully rebushed etc) and still get less than perfect feeling so I gues it's those parts. Each time I've done bushings etc things have tightened up, but from this thread (and now because of a definite noise) I'm doing both front bearings and fitting a non-adjustable steering column. Will see how I get on.

nice car, if it was a complete 2L engine conversion (RE2000) then it should have a flowed head and manifolds and possibly non standard cams, very well built conversions, many still going strong from then 80's. Some had custom 2L cranks giving a slightly different capacity to the 9A engines, others used new VW 9A cranks when they became available for the passat. Nice to see you're looking after it and investing in it's future :)

would it not be easier, machining-wise, to make a spacer plate on top of the end of the wishbone to mount the existing ball joint to? - or would that alter the geometry too much?

it depends what you mean by rebuilt, the pistons rods and crank are pretty expensive items, a 2L crank alone used to be near a grand from VW! I'd get a reasonable looking (bores) second hand lump and find someone local to flick hone it and put new shells and rings in, that should keep the cost down.

well, swapping the bulbs to brighter higher light output ones like the Phillips is pretty easy, but the voltage drop through the original VW loom is so much that relaying up standard bulbs helps no end, so both relayed (at least dip beam) and the better bulbs together gives you even more improvement. Using relays is all about the attention to installation, the better you protect the relays and connectors the longer they will last, I fitted my self built relay loom over 8 years ago, installed the relays in a protective box and everything is like the day I fitted it. self-tap a relay to the inner wing and leave everything exposed and you're asking for trouble (as soon as it rains)

If you want to go turbo I believe the mk3 2.0 16v (ABF code) engine block is the best, it's a cm or two taller than the 9A (passat and corrado block) but is the same capacity, its has longer connecting rods (giving a better rod to crank angle?) and was designed as a high revving 2L 16v from the start (the 9A red lines at 6,500 unlike the KR 7,200, the ABF is somewhere in between), but I'd imagine you'd still need to invest in some low compression pistons £££

there's not much in it TBH the 1.8 revs higher and has lower gearing, which makes it a little quicker to 60, the 2L in standard form has a much flatter torque curve but runs out of steam at lower revs, but both are around 9 secs 0-60 in reality, the 2L should do slightly better in gear acceleration because it has a little more torque. Having a higher lift (as standard) intake cam makes the 1.8 have peak power at slightly higher revs, fit a P&P head on a 2L bottom end and with the right tuning it will make around 160-170bhp and around 145 lb/ft. For 180 bhp you'd really need a very well balanced 2L engine set up perfectly on KR cams or aftermarket cams, anything over 180bhp and you're looking at raising the rev limit and running it on very lumpy cams, making the power very peaky, OK in a mk2 but not really suited to the heavier Corrado. to fit a 2L bottom end to a 1.8 is easy, all you need is the block and everything off the 1.8 bolts straight up.

you know fiats, it was probably an electrical fault...

I think the driveshaft flanges are too big, you need beetle flanges or something (oo-errr!) 100 versus 110 mm?

like most cars there was a selection of trim/cloth colours available and this changes from model year to model year, IMO some of the late cloth seats are the worst designs! The vast majority of 89-91 cars with cloth have a grey/blue rectangular pattern or black/green version with the black dash, there's a few other versions though just in 89-91. The 92 on cars can have some really dodgy looking light grey and flecked type material which reminds me of the same age polo trims :| the interesting thing in that spec sheet (for me anyway) is the MPG figures, 23mpg urban for the 16v and 22 for the VR6, but at 56/75 mph the 16v improves a lot to 47/38 and 39/32 for the VR, that helps explain a lot of the arguments about when 16v and VR6's produce similar economy for some drivers and vastly different for others.

I still can't see it's the cables mate, there's lots of play in the shift tower and bushings but the cables move the mechanism fine and far enough to select everything but 3rd and the distance it's moving 'should' be selecting 3rd fine it felt really odd when trying to manually engage 3rd by moving the top of the shift tower, I still reckon something in the box is damaged.

do what VW did on the mk3 16v I guess, higher lift but no overlap, ABF cams are supposed to be pretty good but not worth swapping over on a KR as it's much of a muchness.

yeah, been reading up on this a bit more lately, the K-jet (1989-91) 1.8 16v's have the Warm Up Regulator, this is essentially a mechanical way of adjsuting the control pressure in the metering head based on engine temp and load. It has most effect on mid range and full throttle enrichment. The KE jet (1992-95 2.0 16v) had an electronic differential pressure regulator mounted on the side of the metering head, doing essentially the same job. So both timing and fuelling can be adjusted by the ECU. The main issue with KE jet is it runs a lambda sensor and cat, so cams with overlap that can make good power on the 16v (to a certain extent the KR pair of cams) can damage the cat and sensor by allowing unburnt fuel down the exhaust. KE jet can also be a bugger to troubleshoot as the system doesn't have very good diagnostics, it's really just plain K-jet with a few add ons.

thank you so much for that, it's just made my lunchtime :lol: , everyone in the office keeps wondering why I keep blurting out laughs, that's the funniest thing I've seen for ages, the cut-and-shut clutch and the lightened flywheel were just the icing on the cake.