davidwort

they all have a 228mm flywheel/clutch (apart from a few of the 2.0 8v Corrados according to ETKA), it's not a dual mass flywheel or anything so I can't see you ever wearing one out. My original clutch itself was like new at 120K, only reason I replaced it was cause I had the box off anyway to do the engine build.

Personally I'd just put on a standard clutch (the basic sachs replacement one I got from GSF years ago has been great) and have the standard flywheel lightened a bit (IRO £80 quid for machining). Both the standard 16v clutch and gearbox are good for a lot more torque than any NA valver will ever put through it, they were designed for the 1.9 turbo diesel passat in the first place.

you could try doing a mk4 retractable string conversion :) those things look really neat until you drop the parcel shelf, the cover pops off and the tightly wound flat spring launches itself in the air :bad-words: ...some things are best left simple.

early suspension pics I have koni inserts in VW legs, but the koni coplete leg wouldn't be any different to the diagram below AFAIK

try some meths on a rag first, perhaps T-cut if meths isn't strong enough, but don't use a fine sandpaper you'll leave the plastic scratched forever.

it depends on the year, some gearlever pivots have a protruding centre point that a redesigned circlip (with a corresponding hole in a centre tab) clips onto, others are a plain old circlip with no extra centre tab, for the latter just measure the diameter where it clips on, not that they'll be much from VW anyway.

the only other thing I've heard is that some polys can creak a fair bit and need regularly 'lubing' to keep them quiet.

The audi TT wipers are better looking IMO, basically the same as lupo opes but a slightly improved arm and blade fitting. Don't just fit retro-fit aero wipers to the old Corrado arms, it won't make them any better, it's the old arms that are the main problem, the springs that hold them to the glass get weak with age.

apologies for the crap pic, snapped in the traffic this am, looked like an A3 cabrio to me, never seen one before, any thoughts? It looked OK to me and I'm not a fan of cabrios.

VSAM was just an ignition timing module to adjust the advance curve for running on unleaded 95 or maximising the power on 98+ K-star could be bought in several versions, just altering ignition timing or also using a digifant injector across the warm up regulator fuel lines to alter the control pressure of the system, in effect it allowed you to adjust the fuelling across the rev range rather than just a fixed amount as with adjusting the WUR screw setting, but IIRC it was only in 500rpm increments so it was a bit basic. I've never really heard of any K-star equipped cars actually making better power than a well set up standard system, but in theory if you have headwork, cams etc. it would allow you to optimise fuelling and ignition timing to get the best you could from any mechanical upgrades. I think I'd rather megasquirt a valver than fit one of these now though.

but VW bothered to fit a warning light to the top of the water temp gauge for when the gauge gets to maximum!

Koni simply say cut the stops down by the amount you are lowering the car from standard, what are H&R's, about 35-40mm drop?

I put a Maplins lights-on-warning-buzzer on mine, only goes off when lights are on, ignition off and drivers door opens, it's saved me loads of times, that little green light isn't exactly glaringly obvious, especially if you're in a rush.

to be fair, an ABF on ABF management is a significant improvement over the K(E)Jet systems and a standard ABF will outperform a standard 1.8 or 9A 2L any day of the week, not to mention the improved fuel economy. Just a shame VW didn't fit the ABF as standard in the last few years of the Corrado. If I didn't have a tuned 1.8 based 2L already myself I'd definitely look for an ABF to drop in.

same wishbones, subframe basically on the Corrado so I'd imagine it would go on fine. The Corrado has different part numbers for some pretty subtle reasons like the horse-shoe locators for the rear bushes on the wishbones, non of which would affect bolting up an arb. I'd imagine the main reason for Corrado parts being slightly different is down to the extra weight of the Corrado, so things like springs and dampers are usually differently weighted, worth checking the standard Corrado front arb diameter just to make sure it's not the same as the eibach one, there are at least a couple of thickness variations for the Corrado from the factory.

top mounts OK?

sounds like you should check the rear bushing on the wishbones, if one of those is shot it'll change the geometry when you accelerate or brake.

if it's in good nick I'd just bolt up the whole thing (removing the exhaust to get at it) rather than messing around with clipping in cables to the old mechanism

unless you cut a small notch in the lip of the gearlever opening inside the cabin to remove the gearlever pivot and plate you'll have to drop the exhaust to get at it from underneath, gearbox end is a doddle though, one nut and bolt and a circlip on the support bracket. if you search the C club of canada or dieselgeek there's a good guide somewhere to removing the gearlever pivot and mech from inside the car somewhere, it just requires a tiny bit of dremelling of the opening under the gearshift boot as i said, nothing structural just a 2cm lip of metal

It's the shift cable (one nearest battery) and it's the same as amk3 GTI/16v/VR and if you can find one with the alloy oval end rather that the original steel rectangular end second hand then they're very strong and a second hand one would do you fine (IRO a tenner when I've asked local scrappies)

pedantic, but the pre 92 cars had the same part as the late cars, seems it's the 92-94 ones that have the 'Corrado' script on them.

Worth a go, especially as you can adjust the damping and ride height, I can't see it causing any particular problems. Ideally you would want springs and shocks matched together and matched front-rear as a set designed to work together, but I doubt the aftermarket mnfrs test sets on a chassis in the rigorous way VW do anyway and most of the settings for particular kits seem to be based on car weight and in particular weight over the front wheels. I'd have thought you could get a worse result from using a complete kit but setting heights and rebound settings incorrectly.

no, what he's saying is you need conventional koni rear shocks (TA) with those new springs, not the coilover dampers (with the spanner adjusted lock rings) that you seem to have already.

Another option would be to pick up an OBD2 passat 2.8 and swap the whole thing over, that would be the cheapest route, but then you'd be looking at a highish mileage engine I guess. It's a difficult problem with the VR6 Corrado, the 2.9 is like hens teeth to find S/H and the rebuilding cost when you factor in everything you'd really want to change if the lump is coming out could rapidly get out of hand, even excluding labour It really depends if you want to keep it (2.9 12V) original (edit: you do!), I personally would love a 24v 2.8 in a Corrado, so quiet and the cylinder head the VR6 should have had from the start, not to mention variable inlet manifold. Tricky one, but a lot depends on just how cheap the car is and the condition of the rest of it, if the body is perfect then it's a rare find and you'll not be sinking hundreds into panel work, which TBH can end up being the most costly area to fix properly. With fuel prices and the economy as they are I wouldn't be surprised if the price of VR6 Corrados drops even more, contentious on the forum I know!, but it's worth thinking about as there may be less competition to buy VR's in the coming year or so.

think you're going to have to trace the wiring colour back to the dash, inspecting on the way, I suppose it's worth checking the feed to the sender that should be live with a multimeter and perhaps earthing the sender to a good earth if you get a good live feed, I'm not sure which way round they work, but I'd imagine they earth out gradually reducing in resistance until you reach max temp and no resistance from the sensor, I suppose you could heat the sensor with a hairdryer and check the resistance with a multimeter to confirm. I'm not an electrician... you might have guessed :lol: