davidwort

I find the rattly cam gear, straining PS pump, squeaky alternator bearings and chattering water pump idler pulley add significantly to the exhaust note on my valver, although the rattling trim inside drowns most of this out when on the road :lol:

depends, if you mean mk2 'style' suspension, the 16v and G60 corrados have the slotted nut up to 1992. It's not a bad idea to get a garage to buzz the top nut undone for you with an air gun, rather than getting the special tools to hold the susp shaft still.

metal or fibre gasket?, the VAG metal ones are supposed to be the best, think they've gone up a bit now but I got one for 17 quid trade price from VAG a couple of years ago.

yeah, bare door with glass and regulator is 27.5kg, and after humping about a tailgate today and recently a bonnet I can see why the Corrado weighs in as much as it does. There's always the option of carbon fibre and plexi-glass :lol:

How about a 130 or 150 tdi pd lump? Whatever you went for you'd practically need the whole donor car to get all the parts you need, 1.8T, V6 or TDI, and then you've got many hours of work to fit it, It's not going to work out cheap. You may be better off going for regular no-expense-spared maintenance of your G60, perfectly reliable if treated properly. Considering depreciation on a new car I'd imagine you could spend a couple of grand a year on the G60 and not be out of pocket comparatively.

yep, if that circlip broke or popped off, the side to side movement would be too far (towards reverse) and part of the gear lever movement wouldn't be transferred into cable movement.

you haven't lost the dreaded circlip from the gear lever end have you?, under the gear lever leather boot.

32kg give or take a kilo, depending on whether it's got electric windows, door speakers and/or side impact bars

yeah, but... the torque curve is pretty shyte for low end pull and this always results in rubbish town driving economy, a steady 60-70mph will return pretty decent mpg, over 40 is possible quite easily, but open them up and all that extra valve area means they drink fuel pretty quick at the top end too!

not easy to come by, as said they get swiped for mk2 golfs mainly best bet is to search for an audi 80 auto MOT failure with the 6A 2L 16v engine, basically identical, just need your manifolds and sump/oilpump bolted to it, the autos have a fairly easy life.

was that just the temp sender for the ECU, or the whole ECU up the creek too? don't break it! gotta be worth having a go at the HG yourself, all you need is a gasket and bolts and to borrow a torque wrench off someone. The only vaguely tricky bit is putting the cam timing back right if you've never done it before, but it's all just nuts and bolts really :) is there anyone you know nearby who could help guide you to do the job?

I'll second that, have the same problem as jim in at least one place, can I get the temp switch to seal?...no.

yep fine, just under the sump is OK, although the gearbox would be fine too, sump is plenty strong enough as long as you spread the jacking point a little with a piece of wood. For the starter you don't need to undo the front 17mm bolt on the side of the engine mount bracket, only the two long ones for the starter motor, this helps keep everything aligned for when you put the bolts back in. When you do put the bolts back in you may need to raise the jack/engine a little more to get those long bolts to bite into the threads in the gearbox mount, it just seems to drop a small amount when you take them out, enough to make it hard to get the bolts started.

The system remains pressurised with the engine off, probably the best thing to do is crack open the fuel line feeding the metering head from the tank with a rag around it to soak up the small amount of fuel that will spray out, then the lines should only dribble a small amount of fuel when you go at them.

That's quite rare, I've only seen one other pic of a Corrado with badly corroded inner wings, it must be due to repairs, the original cars were very well sealed. For the cost of doing that sort of work unfortunately I think getting another shell would be as cost effective.

> I'd rather not have my valve guides ground totally away thanks, VW made them that long for a reason! A 16v head does respond well to porting and polishing though, the standard valve area is plenty big enough and the combustion chamber can't fit bigger valves without affecting the gas flow. Seriously, expect around 15-20bhp from a 16v P&P job, possibly another 10 peak with lumpy cams, the max torque will be 5-10lb/ft more than a standard 1.8 or 2L, it's not easy to get more power and torque from a NA engine.

I needed to jack the car up, put it on axle stands and then use the jack on the sump (protected by the wood), it can't go anywhere as there's still the rear and gearbox mounts in place, but you obviously need to lift the engine a bit to slide the mount out. You're right, I doubt even a standard ride height car you'd be able to get any jack under the sump without sitting it up a bit on axle stands first, even a very low slung trolley jack.

someone on e-bay was selling them, for the early analogue mileometer too.

that's basically it, just be careful not to jack too far and damage anything, e.g. radiator and fan remove the top (13mm?) nut that holds the bracket to the mount top first, the engine just sits on it anyway it wont go anywhere, then it will separate from the bracket as you lift the engine block of wood between sump and jack is good

quite a few threads on this already, use the search.

yep, sounds to me like warped brake disks

shame they put it in a renault then ...

yeah, don't know how anyone gets to 8K without butchering the ECU circuit board??? Isn't it a crystal or something that controls the limiter, it cuts ignition which is why it's so harsh. A 2L on 9A inlet cam may not pull well at the top end but a good KR should spin to 7.2 pretty nicely, I know mine does :D Those 16v heads were built for screaming all day long and love it.

believe me the boot will never be big enough, a 3 wheeler pushchair fills pretty much anything, then you rapidly start adding other kit as they get a bit older, we nearly bought a polo, so glad we got a golf and really an estate is what we need now for any major trips out.

I can totally recommend VAGs own fully synthetic gear oil G052 171 A2 (that's the code for a 1L bottle, you need 2 of.) cost me IRO 24 quid for 2 litres, not usually held in stock by dealers though, it's the oil specified for the highest output 1.8T's and V6's. Others have used Redline MT90 and other fully synthetic gear oils, they all vary in specs slightly but all generally offer better low temperature shifting (the most noticeable difference over basic mineral gear oil).