davidwort

It is possible to retro fit a digital mileometer dash or vice versa, but I think the electrical connections (pin order) are different, the later dash has left and right indicator arrows too, the early one jsut a single bulb that flashes. Yes, the early cars have a drive from gearbox, later ones an electrical sender on the top of the box. There is a how-to somewhere on the web (USA Corrado club?) in switching dash types.

I'd remove the battery leads first.

The structure of the mk1 is pretty poor by newer car standards even mk2 golf, they need bracing all over the place if you're running anything like a modern engine's power output, they were designed for 1-1.5L 1970's engines and they creak and flex really badly when thrown around. I loved my mk 1's but they rot badly and are like tin cans compared to the Corrado, plus the very small wheelbase makes them go-cart like in all the bad ways. I'd take the C anyday over a mk1 for any amount of driving but they do need more hp to make them really fun.

If you mean the rotary control knobs inside the car, then I believe a passat one can be made to fit.

I've always wondered exactly what danger I was In cutting the springs down on my first car, probably none then, all I did was cut one coil off, 20mm or so lower and I never had any problems with it.

I'm sure GSF do them, make sure you get the right shaped connector though.

99.9 if I reset the MFA when freewheeling downhill. my golf is twice as good as that, that'll do 200mpg

:roll: all they need is a 2 quid spirit level and a spanner check it yourself, you just need a flat surface (side to side) to park the car on, a spirit level with a bubble to check uprights (1m builders one is ideal, or a short one and a straight 1m length of wood) and if you want to be precise a kids school protractor. stick a couple of identical length 3 or 4 cm bolts on the side of the spirit level spaced apart so they can touch either side of the wheel rim, as the tyre bulges at the bottom, so you don't want to measure across that. with the wheels straight ahead, ideally the top of the wheel should just sit in from the bottom (negative camber), the edge of the bubble just up too or just over the line should be about right, but you can always draw a straight line on a wall and another with the bubble in the measured position off the car and measure the lines with your protractor. Last time I looked you could get a protractor and spirit level from Tescos for under 2 quid to do this :) As long as they weren't masssively out when the rest of the alignment was done, adjusting the bottom suspension leg bolts to correct the camber won't affect anything else. You should be able to see bad camber from jsut looking down the sides of the car, several degrees will be visible as a definite lean in or out of the front wheels.

As every mk3 VR6 and GTI from about 1994 onwards had them you should be able to pick up a pair in good nick S/H pretty cheaply, you can try VW but I'd imagine they'd be on an exchange basis unless you're prepared to pay a huge surcharge.

yep, that's just the mounting, unlike the early ones the late ones have a separate part for the bearing

627 lb/ft :shock: that should be digging new roads not driving on them

I bought a spare golf VR6 rack some time ago and it's identical to the Corrado 16v one I have (TRW) bar the different length track rods, so I'm pretty sure the part numbers are only different between 4 cyl and 6 cyl cars (post 91) as they come complete with rods. You could even fit a G60 or 1.8 16v rack to a VR providing you swapped the UJ to an earlier one as the racks all changes from 36 to 22 spline input shafts post 91. Just to prove the point James Renshaw fitted a SEAT ibiza (golf/polo based running gear) 16v rack to a VR6 Corrado too.

It's not just spring sag over the years, the G60's and early valvers did sit lower on their standard suspension, even though the later springs may well be slightly shorter than the early ones, never actually seen the two side by side though.

only those two, it should come free with a few taps to the body and jiggled up and down???

there's only two 4cyl corrado racks, and the only difference is the UJ that attatches to it is either 36 spline (pre92) or 22 spline all later cars, so if you have an early G60 a 1.8 16v rack is the same providing they are both RHD of course.

if it's the idler pulley, i.e. the belt that goes up to the alternator, then they are notorious for chattering and rattling, the slip bearing type thing built into them just breaks up. I've known people spot weld the two halves together with no ill effects. If the actual water pump drive pulley is making the noise then your pumnp bearings are shot.

I thought you meant 9" diameter on the first read :lol: personally I'm not a fan of the 'space saver' look, i.e. Reiger style wide arches with wheel widths too narrow, always reminds me of a hilarious kit car pic I saw once of a TR7 based kit with a Testarossa shell, all that work just to look like a right plank. OMG, here it is: tr7 testarossa

borrow a road angel or something, my 16v (on 15's) over-reads by about 7mph at 30 and about 10mph at 60 :lol: If you think you can hit 70mph on the speedo (before the rev limiter cuts in at 7,200rpm) in 2nd then it's probably over reading a fair bit too, red line in 2nd is about 60mph on a 1.8 16v gearbox with 195-50-15's.

reliable 160bhp 140lb/ft with a standard head and 1.8 cams, possibly a bit more, tip top condition and a flowed head you're looking at closer to 180bhp.

all you need is a 2L 16v bottom end, passat or audi, although the audi ones will have the wrong sump pan and oil pump pickup pipe, all the rest is a direct swap Stealth is a long way from you, Southam, nr Coventry.

I think the answer is to build up a relationship with the parts guys, although if the dealer principle threatens their own staff if they take orders in a particular way, it's going to be difficult to get them to 'do you a favour'.

yeah, it's more to do with a dealership getting stuck with expensive parts they can't shift, they have to buy the bits from VW so tend to only stock very fast moving ones. The dealers I've used want payment up front which although a little annoying is fair enough I guess.

I think this has more to do with 'Safety Camera Partnerships' being allowed to keep the revenue, this is certainly the reason why the backs of fixed cameras were painted bright yellow, the idea being people would be happier for the Partnership running the cameras to pocket the cash if they were well identified on the roads. The locations used by Safety Camera Partnership camera vans in Northamptonshire all have the camera warning signs half a mile or so from any of the stretches they randomly park the vans on. But the poilice can set up a speed trap wherever they like with no warning signs.

If you're happy all the ignition components are in good nick and your wheel alignment is OK, get it booked in for a rolling road setup, a bit of extra ignition advance on super unleaded and the correct adjustment of CO and the warm up regulator and you should see a noticeable improvement throughout the rev range.

nope, but those flanges do give trouble too, cheap enough to replace with their o ring though, the standard VW spring clips are a bugger to get on and off (mole grips help) but will seal it the best without damaging the hose, if you use a jubilee, don't over crank it.