davidwort

That age and mileage I'd be looking for a metre high bale of paperwork and receipts, FSH isn't important, that just shows the oil has been changed.

no bumps and scrapes to yourself I hope, crashing a car is one of the worst experiences, one of those times where you just wish you could turn back the clock. That's a major bummer on the cash side, no point in notifying anyone as long as no one else was involved.

welcome, plenty of G60 experts on here. There's a fair few options for you as the mk1 will take most of the 1.8-2L VW blocks, so you could go 2L 8v, G60, 1.8/2L16v or 1.8T. all have their plus and minus points. For me the revvy 1.8 16v is a great engine for the mk1, if you go for a very torquey engine like the forced induction ones you'll be spinning the front wheels in every gear, which doesn't always make for the nicest drive :)

just make sure they're not the late 288mm ones the calipers are totally different on those, ATE I think.

VR6 passat is the one you'd need, you should be able to get re-con ones from GSF etc???

They do, it must just be the usual VW parts numpty problem you were experiencing :lol: N 044 411 5 stud M8x30mm (16v specific, unfortunately) you might even get away with a golf IV 16v/polo 16v one they're a M8x28mm the VR6 and G60/8v golf studs are M8x35mm you might even get away with one of those? ignore me, I'm looking at exhaust manifold studs!!! right, cam bearing studs: 16v 030 103 397A M7x45 these are used on loads of cars V5, 2.8 and 3.2 V6, 1.4, 1.6 golf 3 8v, 1.6 caddy, new beetle etc...

the late 4cyl housings have 3 drillings, the third to incorporate a temperature sender on some 8v cars, if you look at the unit off the car the late housing has a by-pass valve of some kind, presumably to enable oil flow in the event of a filter clogging (not all filters have built in by-pass valves), although the 3rd drilling has the same thread as the others and is usually blanked off on 16v 2.0L corrados with one of those hex head bolts/plugs, it doesn't have the same oil pressure feed as the other two drillings so you can't site one of the pressure senders there. So this seems like a similar setup on the 6cyl.

how about recalling some minor Corrado disasters or bodges, not the 'I totalled it into a bridge support' type occurances, but more of the funny happenings, particularly DIY mishaps etc. Inspired by diynot.com (forum-DIY disasters) I'll start it off, fitted a new throttle cable once, few years back now, nr the beginning of Corrado ownership, only did it a bit too tight on the adjustment, first time I floored it to overtake a lorry and 'twang' it came off the pedal hook and I coasted to a halt! :oops: spent the next 5 minutes standing on my head trying to pop the bugger back on again lol At least once I've got distracted doing an oil change and not replaced the sump plug then started to re-fill the oil :iamwithstupid: I haven't resorted to using no-more-nails for something on the C yet but the thought's crossed my mind on a few occasions.

unladen vehicle the spring should not quite be moving the valve, but not totally slack and wobbling about, so as the car drops with weight the spring will tug and open up the valve.

If the compensator is siezed you won't get progressively more braking to the rear if you load the car up with weight in the back. I managed to free one off by just letting it soak in penetrating fluid and working it by hand. They don't last forever though and a new one may be the safest bet.

Very little difference from a standard clean paper element, just knock the dead flies out of it occasionally, Jetex panel filters are much the same too. Don't forget to clean and re-oil them occasionally, they do tend to get a bit clogged with oil from the breather mainly, but it takes a couple of years to get really bad on a sound engine.

little bit of searching :wink: read this

part of the clocks circuit board I think.

can't advise on the choice of kit, but as far as the camber goes you may find you can't get enough adjustment on the standard suspension to get your camber right, you can purchase some narrower 'cammed' camber bolts from VW which have a narrower shaft and will allow more adjustment though.

do a bit of a search on the forum, you can replace a couple of plastic/bushing parts at the gearlever end for a few quid, should help remove play. try this for a start: here

don't forget a new hub nut and get the alignment checked after.

nope they run Digifant injection system, totally different.

I'd siphon it out of the reservoir first, but don't suck on a hose, use a pump action liquid soap dispenser top or similar rather than getting a mouthful of brake fluid! then fill the reservoir up and open each bleed pt in turn, including the clutch slave circuit, topping up the reservoir when you've drained a 50-100 mil or so from each point, GSF or ECP will do fluid probably less than halfords. if you spill any fluid anywhere wash it away with plenty of water quick

I'd siphon it out of the reservoir first, but don't suck on a hose, use a pump action liquid soap dispenser top or similar rather than getting a mouthful of brake fluid! then fill the reservoir up and open each bleed pt in turn, including the clutch slave circuit, topping up the reservoir when your drained a 50-100 mil or so from each point, GSF or ECP will do fluid probably less than halfords.

It's 16v specific but one off a golf or a passat (including 1.8 or 2.0 engines) will be the same.

24mm I think you'll need a massive breaker bar though, they are f£$%^&g tight, and you really need a press for the bearings, I took the hub off the car and got a local factors to press the new bearing in for me.

I wouldn't have thought so, but we don't really know what's up with it. Was it just a scary bill from garage for 4 new calipers, a master cylinder and all the labour that did it???

woah, hang on, he's breaking it already, can't cost that much fix with s/hand bits, shame to sell for parts.

buy a couple more alloy washers for it, they'll make a proper seal as they are softer, I'd have thought that would be better than 1 alloy washer and one steel as the steel to steel joint could leak.

if air can get past the first senders thread to the other sender then I'm sure it will be OK, the sender uses an extremely small hole in the base to actually take the pressure anyway. you could always use two alloy washers on the side sender to space it out a bit that was a quick delivery!