davidwort

when you remove the stat and drain the water, take the rad switch out and check it switches on and off with a multimeter accross the two paths separately, and a ciggy lighter flame to warm it up to temp, should click and make contact through the two paths at slightly diff temps for the high and low speed circuits also check the small sensor on the top left front of the head, this will cause fan run on to keep the injector pipes cool, could be dodgy and shorting too easily when warm

get a genuine VAG thermostat in there, it sounds exactly like a stuck open stat, unfortunately you've got to take the PAS stuff off to get at the flange though.

Before spending a fortune on a head rebuild I'd say try to trace this water leak first, at this age the 16v engine has a number of trouble spots and water leaking out of the HG isn't usually one of them. Clean around all of the hose joints and looks for any crystallised deposits over the next few days as escaping anti-freeze will leave them. I'd be looking at the plastic head flanges on the front and side of the block, these often crack and leak and could well do with replacing, there are so many joints in the cooling system try and trace them all through, all around the water pump and oil cooler, heater matrix supply hoses and by-pass valves, header tank and rad. I've known people take the head off to find out later it was a duff valve in the expansion tank cap that was leaking! As for oil consumption, valve guides get tired and oil will be sucked down the inlet valve guides and burnt off, anything up to 1L/1000miles(VW specify) on an engine that still passes emissions and runs fine. New valve stem seals wont fix this, nor does it really need fixing until it gets really bad. 16v cam cover gaskets are a bugger for leaking at the corners too and sometimes squeeze out of position. A head can be checked for how flat it is without skimming for no reason, and there's not really enough metal to do it on the 16v head anyway, certainly not twice. A compression check will only check the compression rings on the bores, not the oil scraper rings.

I used some halfords engine laquer, OK, but like POR 15 it's the preparation that counts or anything will flake off.

Based on the eos, so another 2 tonne cabrio, that'll be nimble.

What do you have on there now? If it's a 65Amp Bosch one then a 90Amp is an easy swap (from another c orrado or Passat), but if you already have the 90, then you'll need to run a mk3 style ribbed belt and change several pulleys if you want to run a higher one as they'd be a different design. It may be possible to have a 90Amp bosch re-wound to a higher rating, you'd need to speak to an auto electrics specialist.

It may not be specifically mentionned in the 'rules' but I'd imagine most testers would fail the car on safety related grounds as it's the steering which is involved and the vehicle was obviously designed for the PAS to be operational!

If you set it by the marks on the flywheel through the hole in the top of the bell housing, there is a '0' mark for TDC and a second mark at 6 deg advanced (the factory spec), if you run the engine on super unleaded you'll probably get away with a degree or two more advance at idle than that and so get a little more power, providing you've got a timing light that will adjust to a specific advance.

Perhaps you should re-read the above postings, I'm talking about the relative merits of fitting the EFI from a mk3 16v as opposed to leaving the K-jet in place, the guy has a KR 1.8 and a 2L block to go in, I'm not comparing torque from a 1.8 to a 2L, but the pros/cons of fitting the EFI from a mk3 16v rather than just leaving the K-jet in place on the 2L. And I'm reliably informed the ABF inlet does have more lift and duration than a KR inlet cam, so there's no point in swapping. You would be creating quite a bit more work by fitting all the loom etc. from an ABF though, and when you add to that the cost of re-mapping, it just doesn't seem worth it to me when the K-jet system is so simple and already in the car, drop it in and go, advance the dizzy a degree or two and adjust the warm up regulator screw a tiny amount and you're away.

another alternative is to punch the top edge of the nut somewhere and using a 3 or 4 mm drill bit very slowly drill down the side of the nut, making sure not to get too close to the thread, when you've got a nice slice into it then use a small chisel to split the nut open, did this once and it worked a treat, just take your time with the drill.

after seeing Jabbas own IHI G60 round Mallory Park I was massively impressed, granted the weather was awful and they had the right tyres on, but the thing was slaughtering anything 1.8T and R32's and they were only running on low boost.

no, but I'm sure tempest or supercharged have the real VW tool.

I made up a puller from a large/long bolt or threaded rod and a variety of large washers and bit of metal for packing against the angled lip of the bush, a pretty poor diagram below. It worked well though, darn sight easier than cutting the old ones out, that took ages with burning out the rubber and carfeully hack-sawing the outer part of the bush left in the beam, that's where the VW tool comes into it's own. bush fitting sketch.gif[/attachment:0b423]

no, that's good, it tallies up!

underneath front subframe bolts nearest front of car 70Nm underneath front subframe bolts nearest engine 30Nm top nut on mount to bracket 60Nm torque settings will be the same on a pattern part

I'd say keep the k-jet and use it on the ABF block and head with the KR inlet manifold, ABF fuel system will make better mid range (slightly) and can be re-mapped but that's not going to be cheap will involve all sorts of messing about with looms etc and a 2L with a KR system should get you around 160bhp with nothing more than tweaking up the warm up regulator anyway. No point in using KR cams over the ABF head ones, they're slightly higher lift but shorter duration on the ABF to suit emissions better, KR ones give basically the same power. Edit: apparently ABF inlets are higher lift and duration, the best cams of all the VW ones for a 16v.

try GPC in luton, they do the runners for about 75 quid a set at shows, fogs as well I think, check VAG dealer prices too.

Bad news here I'm afraid, cam bearing caps are machined as part of the head in manufacture, that's why the half moon seals are in either end of the head, it's where the machine cuts down all of the caps in the head to make the bearing surfaces for the camshaft to run in. This is why caps should not be rotated or swapped from one position to another in the same head and why VW don't sell them separately. It is possible technically to machine a head and individual cap to receive a two piece shell (like a crank bearing) but I'd imagine the cost would be prohibitive. Looks like another second hand head would be a better option. I'll send you some more comments on your head via e-mail.

My Jetex panel filter is the same when cleaned, has always looked like it. Never thought about washing machine detergent, I've used that on other oily things though, it's great, good for getting oil off your skin, only not very good for your skin! I bought a cleaning solution bottle and spray can of Jetex oil at inters a couple of years back for a tenner which seemed good value, will do at least 3 cleans and probably 10+ re-oils, will last me for years.

not sure of the precise measurement differnces, but the G60 has a 16v crank and the head, block, con rods, valves and pistons are all different part numbers, the G60 is low compression for forced induction don't forget.

There's a number of Corrado owners that have one of each and seem to like both in different ways. The awkward thing about the 16v is it's chassis and weight distribution is great for B roads but the engine is best suited to the M-way, the VR6 has the torque to haul you out of B road bends but also has a big lump mounted quite far forward fighting against you. There's 100Kg difference between a valver and a VR6 and virtually all of that is in front of the driver.

I agree, a new one should be nice and smooth and working oil down the cable is really just a temporary fix to a worn out cable, they bend through 180 degrees on the 16v as the components were designed for LHD cars and the cables do wear badly at this point.

It's sooo frustrating though when you have a new engine, especially when you've sunk money into it for more power, you just want to see what it'll do, that 1st thousand miles seems to take forever to go past, then before you know it there's tens of thousands on it!

absolutely, plenty of new mk2 GTI's were hammered from day 1 and weren't any the worse for it, it's the one's that pootled about that seemed to have the problems. Have to say though on my own car I've always taken it steady for the 1st thousand without labouring the engine, given it a filter and oil change then gradually increased the red line, it seems kinder. This is a bit like the cold engine debate it seems.

it's not too bad really I agree, I persuaded GSF to let me have 5L of Fuchs 10-40 for a tenner plus VAT(seemed about the cheapest around) and if you do need some screwdrivers I guess they're OK quality, Screwfix want 15 quid for a set of 10 for example. I have bought plenty of tools from Halfords and they don't quibble of broken stuff that's under lifetime warranty, Like when Bally and I used a 3/8 extension bar to prise an Audi engine from its gearbox :lol: There's usually a Halfords near by and open which is a plus in their favour at the weekend!