davidwort

they should be M10 1mm thread standard single connector pressure switches then, should be fine with the DT T-piece

that's a good point, I have no idea if the later VW's use senders with a single connection that earth through the block or twin connections (i.e. feed and earth) like the water temp senders on my mk4? What's the part number of your current pressure sender(s) that should tell us, can cross reference it with other older VW's then.

yup. 191 419 811 left 191 419 812 right

yeah, I know they're not the same value, but they perform the same function (i.e. warn of low pressure) just at different values for different revs, i.e. the 0.25 will warn at idle and the 1.3 at 2500rpm ish, what I'm saying is there should be no reason they can't run from the same drilling via a T piece as they simply complete a different circuit to earth through the block when they close at the appropriate value. The only reason for having to use a separate drilling would be if for some reason they had to pick up pressure from a certain point in the 'plumbing', I've swapped the senders around on the 16v to no detriment and I know people who run the orig sender and a guage sender from a T piece which is effectively what you need to do, it's just both of your senders are fixed values, rather than one being fixed and the other being a variable resistance for the gauge.

I thought they were actually both low pressure warning switches, it's just that one is set for low value at idle, the other at different engine conditions, I'm probably missing something, but why would it be any different running both off the sides of a T piece as opposed to different drillings in the oil filter housing, it's all the same pressure they are sensing???

room for a 'T' piece instead?

8) had a few of these, at least the D reg had hydraulic tappets, although the auto chokes aren't the most reliable when old stuck some scirrocco vented disks, calipers and carriers on one, helps it stop although with no servo it's all up to how hard you can push lol check for rust under the battery, water will drip onto you feet otherwise :) They also suffer from oil leaks at the HG in the front left corner where the main oil passage comes up, it then pisses all over the alternator.

Can you change conrod bearings with the engine in the car?, I thought you could only do that with the crank main bearing shells. Def go VAG, fair few horror stories of pattern bearings breaking up.

no, I didn't explain my thinking enough, my point was the 1.8T has been used over such a range of vehicles and for a lot of 'mid-range' high volume ones, with pressure to reduce a manufacturers overall (total) emissions across their model ranges VW had to introduce new technology to their mid size petrol range as it's such a chunk of vehicle numbers. FSI has effectively replaced the 2000-2004 16v 1.6 engines too (like the AZD in the golf4), so the 1.8T isn't the shortest lived engine at all. Like a lot of things, technology and product advancement not to mention political pressures are shortening product lifecycles, with that background I think the 1.8T has lasted pretty well.

I thought one of the main reasons for the 1.8T demise was fuel economy and emissions, the EU is squeezing hard in this area and the 1.8T isn't what you'd call economical in any form. The 2.0T uses FSI technology and I guess required a complete redesign of the whole inlet system as well as head to work with this, interestingly the bottom end is 1984CC IIRC exactly the same as the 9A! Oh, and the 16v died out in the old Ibiza, much the same as the 1.8T is doing now, the polo and golf 4 16v engines are totally different beasts.

make sure that's actually a metal one, I'd buy from VAG TBH.

Just to add to the gloom and doom, I had a 16v with a piston/ring/serious bore scoring problem on one cylinder, that actually sounded like head noise and we only discovered the head was fine when we whipped it off to take a look. Having said that the 16v heads are pretty noisy anyway and any wear on the valvetrain parts will soon sound pretty bad.

inlet valve stem seals and guides are the major oil burning culprit on the 16v, will do it on over-run, gear changes or sometimes just idling. Of course it could be more serious engine wear such as bore damage or rings, depends on age and how well it's been serviced to a certain extent, the bottom end should do 200K easily if properly maintained.

When the Corrado was first marketed the slight passive rear steer given by the rear axle bushes was referred to as being like the recently introduced Passat, in fact the mk2 golf had the same bushings and most of the Passat parts are actually specific to the Passat and not shared like the Golf 2 and Corrado bits are. Also, the similar appearance of the Passat and Corrado dash and switchgear meant journalists often referred to the Passat when writing about the Corrado.

door card off lower door so you can access the bolts at the centre of the bottom of the glass where the reg attaches lower glass 1/2 way down IIRC pop plastic wheels off end of lifting arms and slide out of rail on bottom of door tiltglass forward so back edge lifts out of rear guide and lift up at an angle and out of door should lift out at approx 45 degrees sometimes the bottom rail glued to glass seems to foul on the top plastic end of the centre rail of the regulator but it should come clear witha bit of jiggling

the long curved one and the long straight one at the bottom of your pic dont fit, you'll need to get a length of 8mm bore samco hose for the expansion tank to rad pipe (available by the metre and you'll need 2m [it's about 1.5m long] ) you could buy separate elbows and straights to make up the other sections around the right of the head and the heater matrix supply pipes.

I know they're a bit expensive new but a dual pole VDO sender saves a whole bunch of hassle: How much is expensive? R they available from any Vw dealers? Do U know the part no's? thnks in advance. Robert there's at least 2 0-5 bar versions (the second output replacing the existing warning sender can be differnt values to replace different warning senders) and there's at least one 0-10 bar version these can be found on Porsche 924's, audi 80 sports and coupe's and other VW's and audi's that may have had them as factory options, e.g. some mk1 GTI's etc... price wise new you're looking at 40-50 quid from some tuning companies or far more from VW part no.s 035 919 561A 0-5 bar and 1.8bar (i.e. replaces high pressure sender) 535 919 561B 0-10 bar only (no second terminal, so not really any better than the aftermarket shown in earlier post) 035 919 561 0-5 bar and 0.3 bar (i.e. replaces low pressure sender) ????????? 0-10 bar and 0.3 bar from porsche 924 would need to check second (warning buzzer) output value on this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/classic-saab-900- ... otohosting

that's the point, they replace one existing sender and add an output for the gauges (they are 2 pole, warning switch and varying pressure output)

I think the cam belt being a tooth out is probably worse than just the inlet cam, certainly killed power and economy on the one I saw.

that's unusual, the 16v's seem to usually go between cylinders

I know they're a bit expensive new but a dual pole VDO sender saves a whole bunch of hassle:

The 1.8 16v gearbox has the shortest ratios of all the 02A boxes, with the possible exception of a very short 1st it's about the best for the 1.8 engine. a sixth cog for cruising would be nice :)

gasket shouldn't need any sealant, but a VAG one would be a good investment, your plugs should give you a better idea of how good the mixture was, black sooty deposits on them would mean running over rich, but obviously don't confuse with the ones that went bad when the gasket went. Perfectly normal to get some carbon build up in the combustion chamber.

main reason VW went to serpentine belts, they're quieter, no V belt VW engine is ever very quiet.

fun using mr muscle kitchen hob cleaner to polish your car though :lol: IIRC they had a horrible underpowered renault engine in them and the build quality was on a par with Ladas.