davidwort

Don't, there's no benefit other than annoying your neighbours :)

I don't know if the VR has a separate fan switch, but the 16v engines have a small switch on the head that earths through the block to run the fan when the under bonnet temps are high regardless of coolant temp, if this shorts the fan will run permanently when the ignition is switched off.

a 16v head gasket is not a massive job and the 1.8 gaskets and bolts can be bought pretty cheaply

not on the corrados, but mk1's only had one adjustable rod

It's possible that as the outer face of disk gets more spray and rusts when standing that rust will then help to wear the outer pad more, this will be worse on a car that spends more time standing.

If you adjust only the offside you'll have to take the steering wheel off, and it's highly unlikely the last garage to do the alignment did that, they clamp the wheel dead ahead and do both sides. I've never done it only on the offside and never had any issue, if you have 205 or 16 or 17" wheels you might want to check for tyre rubbing on full lock.

More like 130 atw, I'm sure it goes well though, abf head is better than a 1.8's though lol

yeah, sorry, thought I'd said, Autopaints, Brighton.

I'll have the 16v for ever I think Jim, but it's unfortunately just more sensible to keep the golf for daily running around.

Yep, 8v has to go, shame as it's been nice to drive and run and I've done a lot to it, but we have a qashqai coming soon and I can't justify or afford to run 4 cars! Will get some pics and advertise soon.

how old is the G60 engine?, not much point in throwing money/power increases at a block unless it's basically been rebuilt fully, then the cost leaps up. The 1.8T then starts to look quite attractive when there's plenty of donor cars around, I'm after a 1.8T at the moment to replace an A6 engine that's oil pump died at 200K, found several for a couple of hundred quid quite quickly.

bally has a black leather mk4 armrest in his C, looks pretty good iirc

Unfortunately that track rod tool is from the garage my dad works at, they let me use it one evening, however I have seen similar ones on amazon for a reasonable price, this one is less than 30 quid: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-4469-Track-Removal-Tool/dp/B00623EAHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390847253&sr=8-1&keywords=track+rod+removal+tool I can see why the rack toothed bar should be held when undoing the track rod, but in reality the thread isn't very tight and has been protected by grease and a rubber boot all it's life, IIRC it came undone very easily

second hand bumper and a decent bodyshop to pull that dent out, more like half that cost even if the replacement bumper needs spraying the right colour, I seriously doubt if the boot floor is damaged.

no, only the ends have adjustment, the factory/bentley manuals specify the distance from the base of the inner joint to the centre-line of each outer track rod end, but other than matching the lock perfectly to avoid possible tyre rubbing I can't see why it's critical, there's no garage I know of that sets the passenger rod to the right length (or whichever side it is) when doing toe settings and it doesn't seem to cause any issues.

Nope, just a big spanner :) New inner joints can really tighten up the steering, and until recently weren't even part of the MOT test! But if you don't feel any knock on the rod when moving the steering as I described then they're unlikely to need doing, I doubt if you would feel any play though with the subframe/rod off the car, so test with the weight of the steering/suspension on them.

I wouldn't drive it, there's a bolt in there for a reason, if the wheel hit's a bump the hub and wishbone could part company and a whole lot of damage would happen.

check the inner joints on the track rods (where they screw into the rack) by putting the steering on full lock (engine off) and rocking the steering slightly, if someone else holds the track rod firmly any play in the inner joint will be shown by a slight knock on the arm. to replace the arm into the rack I can thoroughly recommend using a track rod removal tool like this: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=12282&page=16&p=821357&viewfull=1#post821357 it makes it very easy as getting onto the inner joint flats with a large spanner is a pig of a job

Looks pretty good to me :-)

Mine were a bit flat along the top edge, genuine glass being more curved, only a mm out but initially noticeable, what's yours like?

If you are fitting full coilovers then I think you can convert to vr6 style two piece top mounts and bearings, probably the best option, basically mk4 golf top mounts now, so you can buy vag if you want

The only real issue is removing an old vw glass from it's backing to reuse the backing on the pattern glass, lots of patience and preferably a bit of heat as they are well glued and if you go at it too fast you can break the plastic, once off you also need to offer up the new glass as a small amount of plastic may need cutting out for the heater contacts. no idea if the backings sold with the ones on ebay above are any good instead.

Convex glass on my drivers side now (eBay special) and I've never looked back... errrr........

I'm pretty sure vw just supply a roll of plastic now, no tailored membrane available. Source of many a Corrados wet carpets, just make sure you pay close attention to the little drain holes in the inner door skin, only bond the membrane in the groove just below them.

If both door keys fail to energise the CL then it may be the vac pump in the rear offside wheel arch. you can test it by turning the keys and checking for energised connections on the multi pin connector, they do sometimes die, there's a couple of types on the Corrado,I think pre and post '92