davidwort

all parts will physically fit, but, if it's a pre 92 G60 (7 slat grille style) the bonnet (hood) will touch the top of the vr6 engine when driving and the wings will not be quite as wide as the later ones. The bumpers are again slightly different but it's only really the lines in the moulding where they meet the wings. Doors are basically the same, but the early cars (UK anyway) have no side impact bar inside them.

the key is the little oil can picture on the MFA readout :wink: Despite what I've heard said, I think the oil temp readout is pretty accurate and you should certainly use this as a guide for engine temp rather than the water temp. I've had the oil temp reading taken by my MOT stations equipment, they have both a sump probe and a magical heat sensitive gun that can take a reading anywhere on the engine, both confirm the reading my MFA gives on both the head sensor and oil filter bracket sensors I've got.

not much to it really, it's a straight swap, all you need is a metal 2.0L headgasket (get from VAG) and all the other stuff is standard 1.8 16v if you're re-using the 1.8 head. Budget for a clutch, engine mounts (front at a minimum), filters, plugs, coolant, manifold gaskets, water seals, even a water pump while you're in there. Depending on the arrangement of pulleys, you may need to remove the 9A pulleys and replace with all the old KR bits as you won't have the right steering pump/pulley on an early 1.8 to match the 2L arrangement. Once it's all together and running OK you really need to book and hour or two on a rolling road to set it up right, this can gain you 10bhp+ even if you think it's running fine. If you go for an Audi 6A or ACE block then you'll need to swap over the KR oil pump pickup and sump too.

no, no, you're all wrong, I work with David Yates, he's a Rights Controller.

7200 on the 1.8 valver. 7000rpm would get you to about 150mph on the 1.8 5th ratio

I tend to think of rad weld as a temporary bodge for a banger, I'd rather not put that stuff into the cooling system of my Corrado, it's sole intention being to block things up!

Ah, the old 'battery diary' - I don't really have the time but I've still done it!

Question is: would a new, genuine VAG box have been just as good, perhaps even better tuned to the engine, a 15yr old box is not going to perform as new. It's a similar problem to the one of new 'uprated' shocks, of course they'll feel better than the old OEM ones if they're shot!

Definitely. also, if it's the 16v/G60 style bosch alternator they are prone to diode failure (there's a plate of several inside the alternator), if one fails you'll only get partial charging which won't be enough to keep a battery going long. They can also end up draining power from the battery when you turn off the ignition. Checking that voltage across the battery when running is quick, easy and a good indicator of alternator health!

It's got an MFA which was GTI only spec I think, either it's a good CL shell that someones put a GTI engine into, or a knackered old GTI interior has been swapped for a clean low mileage CL one, which I reckon's what's happened.

I think the 2.0 still uses the manifold pressure (vacuum lines) for calculating mpg, the ECU certainly has a vacuum connection although that may be for load. If there is a vac tube going to the back of the instrument cluster then it will. I can't see the ECU knows how much fuel the 2.0 16v has used as the injectors are still basically mechanical K-jet and so constantly flows throughout the engine cycle. My guess would be a vacuum leak, which may contrubute to the poor MPG. As an extreme my 2.0 16v, but with the 1.8 fuel system, did 332 miles on 39 litres of fuel last week on steady slowish motorway cruise, that's nearly 39 to the gallon. More generally I get from 30-35 average with mostly dual carriageway driving to and from work.

the 1.8 16v gearbox has closer and shorter ratio's than the other Corrado boxes, it's actually the best suited to the high revving valver.

put the cheapest stuff in that doesn't cause knock, or the knock sensors to reduce advance. High compression or forced induction engines will be more susceptible to knock though, and that sort of means all Corrado engines.

Jim, the Haynes passat manual describes how to disconnect the KE jet specific stuff so the car runs as if it were on k-jet, this could help you to narrow down some of the possibilities, I can take some piccies of the pages if you need. Like Phil says it's a bit of a 'check things off the list' type job to work out what is OK and what might be suspect. If you can 'borrow' bits from a working valver, that might be a good bet, I've got a spare ISV and injectors and fuel pipes, but might be a bit too far from you in Northampton just to try them out. Some of the things you can't easily check yourself are the emissions (lamda sensor?), ECU recorded faults, fuel pressures and warm up/enrichment unit. Ideally you wan't a whole metering head and possibly other sensors to swap from a good car onto yours. re-reading your original post, I reckon it's more likely to be a fuel problem, injectors, metering head or fuel pump do seem likely, is the pump noisy or varying in pitch?

yep sounds right, but the knock sensors are very sensitive and will detect knock far earlier than you will be able to detect audibly, problem is they must be torqued to the head correctly and people tend to over tighten them.

no, the KE-jet 2.0 16v's are basically K-jet mechanical injection with the ECU controlling warm up and enrichment rather than having a mechanical Warm Up regulator. There's no MAF just the air flow plate as regular K-jet.

p r o b l e m i s m y o n e f i n g e r e d t y p i n g !

shouldn't the knock sensors prevent it from pinking in the first place?

I guess that would work, worst case the rear axle hoses might be a cm or two too long but I'd imagine they would fit. Best check how long your existing hoses are against the kit you are considering buying to be 100% though. your chassis no looks like a later one, I'm guessing that the slight change in the front suspension design meant the later cars have longer front hoses as the later C's have the mk3 golf style front legs rather than mk2 golf.

according to ETKA the VR6's have a slightly longer hose on either side at the rear axle, but all rear caliper hoses are the same. Front hoses are all the same to chassis number 50-M-035 000 (350mm) and then after that are a mk3 golf part and 435mm David.

Have you had the CO set since you did the airbox filter and throttle?, the graphs look as you would expect for KR cams torque and power, there's always a mid range dip and then things climb strongly to about 6500rpm, although yours might tail off a bit early, but then I guess it's not a new engine. It may be that your best bet is to book it in for a couple of hours on the rollers with someone who can diagnose and set up K-jet properly, e.g. Stealth. David.

looks like it's got a CL interior though, they're not the supportive seats of the GTI.

injectors might not be spraying right pattern, cam belt might be a tooth out, you should really be getting close to 30mpg with a mixture of driving, I think I have a near record on mine, 420 miles from a tank, it's a 1.8 with a 2L block, so it has the smaller 55L tank. I filled it to the brim before and after so I know I averaged over 37 to the gallon, it's a new engine now well run in, perfectly set up on the rolling road with standard tyres.

yes.

10 1/2 years on and I have no intention of letting it go, labour of love and all that.