davidwort

not really, take off the inlet pipe and the two vac hoses underneath, unclip the throttle cable and it's then basically just 4 hex head bolts holding the throttle body to the manifold, best undone with the right sized allen socket rather than struggling with allen keys though, couple of quid from Halfords and then you won't knacker the heads of the bolts :)

One more thing Jim, your car is pretty high mileage, so as well as the throttle body idle air bleed screw I'd consider taking the whole throttle body off and cleaning the whole thing thoroughly, including linkages, they can get mighty clogged up with oily gunk from the crankcase breather at high mileage.

could be the cold start injector or the warm up regulator not working correctly, cold start injector should spray for about 8 seconds if all is well, to test this you need to connect a 15k Ohm resistor across the connector pins of the wiring and remove the valve from the side of the inlet manifold and spray it into a jar (run the engine from cold.) Valve should stay dry for at least a minute after initial 'squirt' warm up valve - remove connector and connect a test light across the terminals, turn starterand make sure the light lights up. the resistance across the WUR connector itself should be 20-26 ohms.

Jim, finally got to speak to my dad about K(E)-jet problems, he had a few questions to ask too, do the problems vary according to the level of fuel in the tank?, this would suggest fuel pressure/pump problems. The only way to be sure is to connect the system up to pressure gauge, check the system pressure and monitor any fluctuations. Some cars have a gauze filter in the fuel inlet to the metering head, for some reason this can give problems and can just be removed and thrown away. The problems don't seem to be ignition, as a dud hall sender would just leave you with no spark or would fail to start near strong radio/electro-magnetic emissions. Any inlet vacuum leaks will give varying problems as we know, both revs and temperature will affect how severe the resulting bad running. Injector O-rings, manifold gaskets, throttle body gaskets (only if they've ever been disturbed), the idle air bleed on the side of the trottle body, the big rubber sections of inlet can get small splits, the small vaccuum hoses and their joints (T-pieces) all this stuff needs carefully inspecting for damage, cracks and air leaks. Hope this helps, David.

There is a special tool to re-face the end of the crank, there's a demo of it on a thread on Club GTI forum. A similar thing happened to me and I got away with filing the rough edge of the keyway flat and bolting on a new pulley. It's the torque on the pulley bolt that holds it in place so providing you can get a new pulley on flat it should be OK. Mine had a new pulley thousands of miles back when this happened and is still OK on a modified 2.0 16v. David.

I'd be more worried about the missing front wheels Bally, those disks would just dig into the tarmac :)

your insurance company might take a dim view if you were involved in an accident, I don't think they'd agree to it being a 'modification' either if you told them about it.

not quite, minor cosmetic differences in the groove running round the top, not much more IIRC

the round one over the end of the exhaust cam where the cam belt pulley bolts on. I'm just about to do my cam cover gasket again, must be about the 4th time :roll:

Cam cover seals are notorious for leaking on the 16v, the surfaces need to be very clean and oil free and the 10mm nuts not over tightened or the seals squeeze out, take the top timing cover off and have a look, could be a camshaft oil seal too. VAG or GSF cam cover seals don't seem to make any difference, they can all leak.

you don't have an oiled air filter do you? (K&N etc..) I got the fright of my life when I saw blue smoke from my newish block, turned out to be a re-oiled Jetex panel filter that had taken a few journeys for the oil to make it's way off the filter through the inlet and burn't out into the exhaust, only lasted a hundred miles or so.

Jim, is that the thermo-timeswitch (043 906 163A), if so it's used on loads of golfs, audis and passats that have k-jet or KE-jet and 4cyl engines, plenty of those in scrap yards.

OK here's some, perhaps not in order though: check all the ignition stuff, plugs leads, dizzy cap and rotor, hall sender (usually gives hot running probs first) is the air filter clean? check fitting and sealing of plastic intake sections from metering head to throttle body is the crank breather hose attached to underside of intake pipe check all vac lines are good and connected correctly, these run to ECU, MFA, brake servo, aux air valve and under throttle body, possibly more/different on KE-jet. are all elec connectors to ISV, temp senders on head, Aux air valve etc in good nick and connected check ISV buzzes when supplied with 12V, and it's clean check manifold gaskets for leaks check and clean throttle body air bleed screw check idle switch on throttle body operates and is triggered at closed throttle check air plate move freely and smoothly check injector o-rings and spray pattern check timing, both ignition and engine, has the belt jumped a tooth? check system fuel pressures and delivery replace fuel filter (under car by tank) lamda probe OK? CO analysis? compression test new metering head rolling road setup (following is for a version of K-jet, perhaps not KE-Jet as on 2.0L 16v) for diagram attached: Checkpoint ID Checkpoint ID 1 - Fuel Pump 2 - Fuel Pump connections and supply 3 - Auxiliary Air Valve 4 - Fuel Filter and supply pipes 5 - Cold Start Valve 6 - Air intake system for leaks 7 - Airflow Sensor Plate and / or Control Plunger 8 - Airflow Sensor Plate position 9 - Thermo-Time Switch 10 - Cold Start Valve for leaking 11 - Injector Valves 12 - Control Pressure - cold 13 - Control Pressure - warm 14 - Primary Pressure 15 - Differential Pressure 16 - System Pressure 17 - Fuel System for leaks 18 - Vacuum System for leaks 19 - Throttle Valve 20 - Idle Speed and CO content 21 - Starting Enrichment function 22 - Correction function (diagnostic test / Ford) 23 - Post Start Enrichment function 24 - Warm Up Enrichment function 25 - Acceleration Enrichment function 26 - Full Load Enrichment function 27 - Throttle Switch Adjustment Impulse Module (if fitted)

One other thing Jim, a bouncing idle is a sign you ISV is OK, it's simply trying to keep the idle up.

yes and no :) old hard O rings can be difficult to remove, best done on a warm engine, but they do just pull out, some cars have metal clips holding the injector into it's seat, slide/ping these off first. Don't pull on the injector lines, they're not up to the stress! mole grips clamped around the injector can help, but it's difficult to get at, perhaps wait until you do your manifold gaskets. I found soaking a bit of WD40 around the injector seats helped a bit, eventually they came out... POP! You need the upper and lower seals, although just the bigger upper ones will probably be enough. They can be a bugger to get off the injectors when old and hard, I think the new softer ones went on fairly easily though. I got two sets from VAG (of the big ones) as they couldn't count or something :roll: , so if you have trouble getting some give me a pm and I'll post them, pretty sure I've got four or five left. GSF should do them although some branches deny this :lol:

not directly, but disturbing the manifold and vacuum lines may well be more than some of the old hoses and joints can take.

Ok, I'll have a word. Reading a few Google searches for K-jet problems I've come to my own conclusion that you've got vacuum leak problems, that may explain the fact it goes fine at full throttle but gives the cruising and idle problems. Injector 'O' rings often give idling problems especially when cold, again these are cheap and should be done to eliminate them. when you do the 'O' rings that would be a good time to check the injector spray patterns too. Again, the WD40 trick sprayed onto Vac lines and mainifold joins will show a rev change if it gets sucked in.

the bosch triple electrode ones from GSF etc.. are the right ones and only a couple of quid each, no benefit to using anything else unless you want to pay a fortune for long life platinum plugs, it's not exactly difficult to change the valver ones every 15K or so, so I'd stick to the cheap ones.

Jim, I'm no expert on K-jet or KE-Jet but your manifold gasket issue perhaps gives some clues. you could try spraying some Carb cleaner or WD40 around the inlet manifold and vacuum hoses to see if there's a vacuum leak somewhere. It would also be an idea to try and get it idling on a CO meter to see if the CO is fluctuating. It does seem to point to an air/fuel thing rather than electrical and you've just got to cross things off one by one from the cheapest upwards. If you can take the outlet to the airbox off and pull up the air flap, check to see if it's moving freely and not sticking anywhere, make sure all the vac hoses are good and if at all possible swap some senders over with another car temporarily. does it pull smoothly and up to the red line?, are the idle problems exactly the same with a hot and cold engine? Bit more hassle but checking the injector spray patterns would be worth a go too. I'm gradually scanning the Passat Manual and will send you a PDF when it's done, if you can give me as detailed as possible a description of all the problems (pm?) I'll forward it to my dad who worked on K-jet VAG cars at GTI Engineering for about 15 years, it's always my last resort :) David.

Maplins do clear plastic covers for male and female connectors, these fit tightly on 15A cable and join quite tightly too, I reckon they are almost totally watertight. I cut my OEM connectors about 4" from the light back and used these to join up to the relays, so there's not really anywhere water can get in but I did cut into the OEM loom, if I have a problem with the relays I've made sure I can simply connect the switching feed straight back to the 4" of cable to the light connector block by making sure I've fitted a male and female connector in the right places on both sides.

I completely agree, these lights are 'Parking Lights' and not driving lights P155es me of when you see people driving in the fog with them on thinking that its ok, why not just put it onto the main dip setting!! :mad: Sorry :offtopic1: I have to say I drive with sidelights on most of the time, particularly in daylight in winter when the sun is low in the sky. My reason is I hate traffic in daylight with dipped beams on, they can suddenly glare but having the rear lights on just gives that bit of extra visibilty driving behind traffic heading into the sun. I know it helps me when the car in front has his rears lights on so I'd hope it's better for people behind me. I've often found driving a low black car, that people just don't see me in their rear or side mirrors, so perhaps the sidelights at the front help a bit there too.

Kev- plunging into darkness is why I went for four relays and four fuses, left/right, dip/main only issue is perhaps using the switching feed from just the passenger side, but it's sticking relays and blowing fuses I was most worried about. Don't take all of this as 'Scientific Fact' :lol: but this is what I wrote down after doing mine: component count/notes for relay setup ------------------------------------- 24/11/2000 D.W. P=IV I=P/V - for my benefit! dip beam (one side) 55W/12V = 4.58 amps main beam (one side) 60W + driving lamp (one side) 60W/12V = 10 amps main beam (one side) 100W + driving lamp (one side) 60W/12V = 13.3 amps (so you could uprate main bulbs to 80/100W and still be under 15A) therefore: 15A relays are adequate (30 are available but less common and more expensive) 4 * 15A relay dip beam left dip beam right main beam + driving lamp left main beam + driving lamp right 4* inline fuses + holders rated at 15A (relays can be purchased that contain a fuse mount) red and black cable rated at up to 15A, alternatively red + 2 other colours(dip,main,driving) + black or brown (relay earths) depending on location of relays etc., more than 10 metres of red (or 4m of each colour) and a couple of metres of black/brown cable is required spade end connectors: 16 female for relays 8 female for fuse holders 6 female for relay to light bulbs 4 female for switching feeds (i.e. existing loom +12v feeds to bulb filaments) TOTAL= 34 6 male for light bulb to relay join 4 male for switching feed to relay join TOTAL= 10 Note: get far more than you need, you always make some mistakes/bugger some up. plastic sheaths for above (usually male and female ones) 1 earth terminal round connector (roughly 4 times duty of spade connectors) 1 +12v terminal round connector (same as above) cable wrap or heat shrink tubing, couple of metres small tie-wraps box to house relays (keeps things tidy if you go for a 4 relay setup) good quality crimping tool Phillips screwdriver (longish) - you will need to remove both headlights - easy. As an alternative to the connectors above, you may be able to source male and female connector blocks and connectors (three-way), I've seen them in body-kit headlight setups, but they may be expensive and difficult to find, the connectors are a larger, less common size. The advantage of using these would be not having to cut any wires in the existing loom.

should be on the front left of the head as it's to cool the fuel in the injector feed pipes so the switch should be close to them. Don't go buying a new one, they're only available from VAG I think and cost a fortune, I've got a spare if you need one. David.

I've got four of the cheapest relays from Maplins only cost about 1.50 each or something, but the key thing was fitting them inside a box, again bought from Maplins and with one hole drilled in the bottom for the wires to exit, it's been on the car for over 40,000 miles and 6 years and everything is fine, I went a bit mad with the connector insulators and heat shrink too, but it's worth it. It all sits behind the passenger headlight in front of the battery. David.

yep, the mk2 handles and surrounds are the same as the early C, and as Bally says the pre 1988 passat GL5's have chrome versions of the same handle, the VAG part number on the bag that Bally's came in was Passat GL5. If you can find an old GL5 for sale it'll be worth about 20 quid and you'll get two sets of handles with it :)