davidwort

wierd, 16v's usually lean out at the top end, do you have a power/torque plot?

That's a good price really, the G60 pump is very similar to the others, just the feed pipe is a different angle I think, this is just an interference fit, so in theory you could fit a 16v pump to a g60 if you can swap the feed connection part over. I've also noticed that 1.4 pug 306's have the same pump!

there's a how-to on the forum giving some prices of the fuel filter and associated brackets, not sure about the accumulator itself, GSF site says 86 quid for an accumulator :( I'd probably try a second hand one with a new filter first

A bit more searching on the car maintenance google group and I discovered that like the switch to keep the fuel in the lines from vapourising (running rad fan) the pressure accumulator, under the car at the back nr the pump and filter also maintains pressure in the system to help prevent fuel vapourisation, loose the pressure and hot starting will be a problem, so it could be you fuel pressure accumulator and filter that needs cleaning/replacing. There's a minimum pressure the system should maintain 20 mins after switch off, 2 bar or something, you'd need the right gauges and connectors to check, but I guess cracking open the fuel supply line to the metering head immediately after switch off and then again after running leave it for half an hour and crack the supply joint, if the pressure sparaying out seems about equal it's probably not that. Be careful with the lines though, hot engines and spraying fuel dont mix! - you need some rags to open the joint into, not much sprays out. I know my system seems to hold pressure for ever.

I've had really good results with 'brown bread' (not the flour based variety) for inside doors etc.. and sheets of felt from the roofs of cars at the scrappy for under the carpets, rear seats etc.. where it's always dry. Makes my 16v loads quieter.

regardless of whether Tempest meant pulling that weight along or rotating that weight, one thing I do know is the Borbet 15's and F1 tyres on my C weigh a hell of a lot less than the 16's on my MK4 golf, so I can totally see why the rotational acceleration (or whatever) makes a perceivable difference from 15's to 17's, probably from most 16's to 17's too. Same principle as lightening flywheels after all.

Both the rad fan switch and the small switch on the front left of the head will run the fan if either is up to temp. Nothing to interrogate on a 1.8 16v with VAG COM There's a lot you can check before resorting to taking it to a garage, On this age of valver I'd go over all the vacuum lines (to check for perished hoses) and exposed wiring connectors (looking for corrosion). If the car runs OK from cold and idles fine and pulls smoothly through the revs to the red line there's a lot you can cross of the list already. Try to get hold of a Haynes passat manual 88-92, this covers the 1.8 16v ignition and fuel system. You'll find some k-jet articles on the web too, for starters: http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/fuel_i ... onic.shtml http://www.auto-solve.com/mech_inj.htm You're not a million miles from Stealth so if you're really stumped I'd doubt there's many people with as much knowledge of k-jet, they can check fuel pressures etc and could set your car up on the rolling road at the same time, 16v owners are always pleased with the result after taking a trip there (I'm one)

water temp gauge, ...and fan run on is determined by rad fan switch OR head switch (front left), if the water temp at the rad switch drops below fan operating speed and head switch/wiring is duff you'll get no under bonnet cooling when the fuel lines need it.

If it's temperature sensitive like that then one thing you could check are the temp senders on the head, you know one is good because you get a sensible reading on the gauge on the dash, try swapping the wires over, there are three identical senders on the 1.8 16v all around the water outlet on the side of the head, just swap them round and see if the gauge reading is the same and the engine runs the same. After that you could try disconnecting the cold start injector cable and see if that makes a difference when hot you might be flooding the engine if that is operating when hot. Failing that I'd search and ask on the Club GTI forum, there's been quite a few valvers with starting issues on there recently. It is also possible for fuel to vapourise in the fuel lines, which is why there is a small fan switch attached to the front left of the head nr the fuel lines. It switches the rad fan on to keep under bonnet temps cool to help prevent this. David.

very difficult to diagnose a front wheel bearing from spinning it, unlike the rears, you don't really know until you've got it in bits and even then the tiniest amount of pitting can make a significant noise on the road. If you have a constant groaning from the front, straight ahead on a smooth road surface it is likely to be a front bearing but it can then sometimes be difficult to tell which side. Rears tend to make groaning on bends due to the construction of the bearing and races. David.

had two bosch silvers in my 16v, both lasted 2 years and regularly struggled to start the car after a week of standing on the alarm, not very impressed, you basically pay more for the warranty they come with. The Hella 74 I've had since then has lasted over 3 years starts the car fine even after 2 weeks and was a higher rated one than the Silver, it cost less and simply came with 1yr less warranty than the Silver, bit bigger and heavier than the previous lower rated 64Ah Silver though.

I'd imagine it would all mate up, 9A and ABF 16v engines are very similar all have O2A type boxes, the selectors are all basically the same too, mk3 uses identical cables to the Corrado, it's only the mk 4's that have a completely different design of selector. the starter may have older type elec. connections depending on it's age, I think the mk3 has the later 4 cyl corrado connectors on the starter, it will fit mechanically though.

If I were you I'd try to borrow and old passat dash to see if the fuel gauge is dodgy, could always try it before you buy it from a scrappy? I've got one sat in the garage you could try but I'm probably too far away from you in Northampton.

yep, it goes in there! then as I said, the pressure hose (the hose that goes to the rack, not the reservoir) connects to the end of it - can't see it in your pic. presuming the valve isn't still screwed on the end of the hose union? BTW, looking at the pic, the fill hose from the reservoir is connected but it needs a jubilee clip around it or it will leak.

Nope :) , it just isn't a good idea to get crap inside it and it doesn't need to come out to remove the pressure hose. you're also supposed to prime the pump with fluid when you assemble everything, but I found the fluid just runs through it if you connect up the feed from the reservoir and leave the pressure hose off.

the 'thing' you are holding up to the hole in the PS pump is the pressure relief valve which is part of the pump :? It shouldn't have been removed, only the pressure hose union that is the feed to the steering rack, looks like someone undid the inner rather than outer nut and pulled the innards out of the pump by mistake. Various bits fall out if you remove the valve IIRC, should be a spring inside about 3cm long 1cm wide?

bit out of my way, but I am going on a weeks hols to Cornwall on Saturday so I'll be down the M5 from Bristol. Isn't it a bar type exhaust you have tho?

best bet is an ultrasonic cleaning bath, around 30 quid or so off e-bay, that'll shift stuff that no amount of carb cleaner will get off, supposed to do the job on injectors (search Club GTI forum) I'm going to give one of these a try, apparently really good for cleaning all sorts of small and delicate metal items.

cheers, I will post up any info/issues, I was mainly interested as my SS back box has always been a bit loud (noisy Janspeed stainless system I have) and I'm on the lookout for a cheapish back box to quieten things down a bit and to see if it's more restrictive with my engine mods, I may just try a standard golf back box from the scrappy just to see if it measures up and if that looks OK then invest in a newer box. Fortunately I have access to a full garage ramp/MOT bay in the evenings/weekends so that makes life a lot easier messing with this stuff. Cheers again, David.

yeah, wot tyres do you have on? I seem to remember a lot of the tyres you can buy in the US have mad warranties, like 60,000 miles, they must be made from a seriously hard compound to cover that, can't imagine that would help wet weather grip :)

my original vag centre sections and downpipe lasted 10 years and 100K they're pretty well made but like you say heavy. I've looked at the golf parts before and always thought they were very similar, downpipe is the same part, just assumed there were slight diffeences in the floorplans of the cars, so you reckon the tailboxes are the same length too?

It could well be that again, they're a pile of poo and start to rattle as soon as the new one's on. Alternators and PS pumps can also make a fair bit of noise as they get old and worn, not to mention the water pump. Get a long screwdriver, preferably with a hard handle, press it against various parts of the engine and ancillairies with the engine running (mind the belts!), and listen to the top of the handle, you should be able to hear bearings, rattly pulleys etc quite clearly rather than the muddled mix of noise when you just lift the bonnet. David.

is that a hook type hangar on the golf and the bar type on the 2.0 16v Corrado?, if the mountings are in the right places then perhaps a golf system would go straight onto an early (hangar type) 1.8 16v Corrado?

Nice to see another old corrado being looked after. Looks like you need a handbrake lever cover.

not sure how the corrado ones work, but on the old MK1 I had there was basically a winding of resistance wire and the float moved a contact against it (a simple variable resistor), problem was the windings were (slightly) different distances apart so the gauge moved faster at some points.