davidwort

thanks for putting this post up, I regularly drive around the Milton Keynes/Northampton area so will keep an eye out and will pass the description on to friends and family. Sadly, with alarms and immobilisers so good these days, break ins for keys are becoming more common, also a favourite trick is garden canes used as a fishing rod for keys though the letter box, Don't leave your keys on a table/hook in the hall. David.

The exhaust cam as an inlet just gives you more valve lift, some say they like the effect on a 1.8 and others say it's OK on a 2L too. I haven't seen back to back plots to compare the power bands but I can't see a higher lift inlet cam giving you more torque low down on a 1.8??? With a flowed head you should benefit more from using a higher lift cam as the head will then cope with the cam profile better, i.e. one isn't restricting the other. Lots of people swear by the exhaust cam mod, but it may just be that the whole power band is shifted and it makes the progression through the revs feel different, personally I like the standard KR inlet cam and I've run that on 3 different spec engines, standard 1.8, 1.8 with flowed head and a 2L with flowed head, all using the same KR K-jet fuel system. Power was IRO 145, 155-160 and 170 bhp respectively. Also, some people swear by a four branch, but a ported and polished standard manifold a downpipe has still let me get close to 180brake on standard cams. David.

I don't see the problem with it being a bit too long and touching the mirror when down, all you want is it to fold up OK and then pull down to block out the sun, and it does that just fine??? Think there's a 94 passat with SR in a scrappy near me, will investigate tomorrow. David.

I think you mean the 'wall of death', always funny if someone throws up on them, (and you're watching from a distance) everyone gets it :twisted: David.

Mothercare do a special seat covering/pad to protect seats from the car seat base. I've stuck my mrs in the back and my 2yr old in the passenger seat, he thinks that's great fun :lol: Britax Eclipse we have fits perfectly into my cloth front seat, don't know about ISO clips though, do you mean ISOFIX?, only new VW's have fittings for these. David.

I've never fitted a 50mm myself, but, a very similar specced engine to mine is in GVK's car, Club GTI forum, he only got worse results using a 50mm on a 2L with a modified head, the results may be different on a 1.8 with a stock head. What I do know is that 180bhp is fairly easy to reach on a 2L with standard 1.8 cams with an lower 42mm inlet port matched and polished. I'm fairly convinced that 50mm is only required if you go with very wild cams on a high revving motor, e.g. a track day car and want to reach the magic 200 brake. A road car seems to benefit from the 42mm every time and I've not really seen any cars/evidence to contradict this. I'm certainly very happy with the torque and power from my 42mm. My engine knowledge would suggest that a wider inlet = lower gas speeds = lower bottom end torque. But some results will I guess be down to odd combinations of cam specs and capacities etc.. which may complicate things. It's interesting to note though that all the later Passats and corrados and golf 2's on the K/KE-jet system used 42mm inlets and only the earlier lighter golfs had the 50mm(generally), I've always thought that was VW trying to gain some low end torque for the heavier cars??? http://www.clubgti.com/forum/forum_post ... 5261&KW=50 mm David.

think samco do lots of generic elbows, reducers, etc... contact a samco distributor and ask. David.

they're not expensive from GSF etc.. not massively prone to wear AFAIK, but worth changing for a tenner or so if you have the head apart for cams or a re-build, can't be tightened. Timing and fuelling can be way out on these cars if they're been fiddled with, I reckon there's a fair proportion of 16v's running around on a tooth or two out on the cambelt, I've seen two friends cars like that. I'd invest in a tune up with someone who knows the 16v and preferably has a rolling road, make sure you've checked all you can first though to save time wasting, e.g condition of plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm, compression, ignition and engine timing. David.

there's a lot you can check yourself for very little cost, I'd get a compression test done and check the valve/engine timing, one tooth out on the cambelt can rob so much power. Use the flywheel marks not the cam pulley. How can your garage confirm the car has a 2L rebore and a specific cam without taking the whole thing apart? 110 at the wheels is about right for a 1.8 valver on a KR inlet cam, a 2L on K-jet with a flowed head will be around 160-170 at the crank 130-140 ATW. Using optimax or similar and about 8 degrees of ignition advance at idle is possible and tweaking the WUR to alter the control pressure will make it run a bit richer and benefit the top end slightly. It's also worth getting the injectors checked for spray pattern too, this can be done by pulling them and sticking them in a jam jar (remove the ignition coil lead) should look like a nice clean cone of spray, when you crank the engine. David.

shouldn't the 16v badge be on the glove box :) very nice example from the pics, should last a lifetime. David.

the very first step would be a check on the condition of the ignition system, compression and fuel system and then a rolling road tune up by someone who knows the K-jet system, decent fuel and a good setup of a standard car can provide approaching 150bhp on a non-cat KR. Then look at headwork and a 2L block, cams are a personal preference thing, as they tend to just shift the power band around rather than actually increase overall performance. KR cams are actually a pretty good compromise for a 1.8 or 2L road car. David.

very carefully prise off the clips so you don't crack the edges of the lenses, I used a flat bladed screwdriver in the centre 'hole' of each clip to bend them open a bit. the small clips that hold the trim surround on always seem to break though :( David.

you should be able to fit a longer rad, as the 16v came with a long rad if specced for air con. and there are certainly mounting points for other sized rads on my 1990 16v, you may be better off looking for a passat rad with the twin fans though. But... the 16v rad is pretty efficient, are you planning on racing this across the Sahara or something :) David.

are you sure?, even the Corrado only has a few galvanised-ish bits, thought the audi 80/100 were the first galvanised mainstream cars, not including things like porkers. David.

It looked to me like the gears had to change for clearance in the 2.0 block, I also remember paying some extorsionate amount from VAG for a 2.0 gear for the top of the pump as my dad had lost the original one as he had intended a dizzy to be fitted there for an 8v head. I think the 1.8 had a slot on the top and the 2.0 splines on the pump drive shaft. I'd imagine TSR used a diesel pump or someting to give slightly higher capacity in the bored 1.8. Also, use a windage plate from a mk3 or diesel golf, this goes in place of the sump gasket and helps prevent the crank dragging in the sump oil and generally keeping the sump oil where it should be, around the pump pickup pipe. David.

Forgot to check last night, but I will investigate, one thing I do remember from the 6A/9A is that the KR intermediate shaft and oil pump drive gear is different, but that TSR definitely use a higher capacity oil pump than the KR one. There's various bits of machining gone on in that old KR block, I'll try to get some clear pictures. I also have a balanced TSR 2L crank if anyone wants it! I used the balanced con-rods in the 6A though as a result of my dad partially modifying the 6a to use in an 8V audi, which never happened (luckily for me). One other thing, why were you intent on oversize pistons and how is that different from the KR to 9a block? They use the same bits if modded to 2L??? If you go close to 2.1 in the 16v you limit it's rev range. David.

Just out of interest, why didn't you just use a 9A/6A block? I've got a junked TSR 2.0 bored KR block in my garage, with badly scored cylinder walls after 10,000 miles, probably due to TSR not boring the block properly, but I'll look at the oil spray holes to see what they did. At the time there were few 9A blocks to be had cheaply but now I'm running a newly built 6A with pretty good power. I just wish I'd waited and not spend £1400 quid on a TSR block :roll: David.

The trim and glass on the later style headlights sticks out about half a cm further than the early ones making the lense more flush with the wing and later style grille. As for the throttle body, I seriously doubt whether this is restrictive on a standard 1.8 16v at all, if it works fine on a modified 2.0 block and with a flowed head then there can't be much wrong with it. I've seen many cars with 160-180bhp with no mods to a 1.8 throttle body at-all, mine included. David.

Yep, if the shocks aren't designed to work at that height they probably won't damp properly and will fail pretty fast too. Properly matched springs and dampers will make for a better ride and good predictable handling. David.

If you're not using a control box you need the 'dealer fit' switches from 1990 cars, they look the same as the VAG switches but have different connections and work straight from a live feed to the motors. I have some somewhere I think, pm me if interested. David.

depending on the chassis no. some kr engined 1.8 16v's have the early style waterpump idler pulley others have the later 2.0 16v style belt arrangement where the ps belt is separate and the alternator one actually drives the waterpump, so the belts are different lengths, If you have two pulleys on the waterpump (the inner being the idler pulley) you have the earlier golf 2 16v size belt 86-90 which is 950mm I think. to remove the PS/waterpump belt first remove the tensionning bolt/adjuster on the PS bracket, then slacken the hinge bolt where the PS bracket pivots, where it attaches to the bracket that sits on top of the waterpump and below the alternator. then slacken the two bolts that are on the ps bracket and enter from the gearbox end towards the ps pulley, one is clearly visible under the car (13mm) and has a thick washer under it, the other needs a long socket extension and is hidden inside the bracket just above or inline with the ps hoses, fiddle to get at. what you don't need to do is remove the 3 bolts that actually hold the long plate bolted to the face of the pump, these can stay fixed. you will then be able to swing the pump close enough towards the crank pulley to just pop the belt off, then swing it back the other way and you'll have clearance to get the alternator belt off/on. the diagram attached is not totally correct as it's a generic drawing and some of the corrado brackets look a bit different, but the red arrows show where the bolts to slacken fix through from the right into the pump body and the green is simply one of the bolts shown. the other arrows show the adjuster (remove) and the hinge/pivot point nut which needs slackening too. HTH David.

pull it out first 8)

Diodes are probably shot, what voltage does it show at the battery when the engine's running? Less than 13.5V with most of the electrics off and providing your battery is holding charge it's almost certainly the diodes. Not worth fixing, get a new or exchange unit. David.

Fords are going to them now also, shame the Vauxhall/ford/golf/lupo/old passat arms aren't like the new passat ones, they're much neater in design than the square ended things. Father-in-law works at the Ford parts distribution warehouse in Daventry, so I'll have to check what size the Fords use :) In fact I've just remembered he gets up to 30% discount on some stuff, might be useful for the VR6 owners?

colour coding looks good on the late facelift cars, as they have a chrome strip too, don't think you can get them for the early bumpers though.