davidwort

2L 9a, 6a or tall block ABF or ACE bottom end (2L 16v blocks from Passats, corrados, audis and seats) , for between 100 and 500 quid for the block you'll increase power and torque. Anything up to 200bhp is possible on the K-jet system from the KR(1.8 engine code), 160-180 on KR cams. my engine output David.

50 quid an hour plus VAT, 1hr for my car, probably 2hrs max if problems are found/diagnosed. http://www.stealthracing.co.uk/locate.php TSR is probably better for you though. David.

yes, but don't bother. gives slightly better breathing at the top end at the expense of low and mid-range torque, only really worth considering on a highly tuned 2.016v, in which case the 42mm can become a little restrictive at high revs. I use a 42mm on mine and recorded 175bhp and 154lb/ft at Stealth last friday and I don't suffer breathing problems at the top end ,unless I stick my head out of the window :wink: David.

brakes not totally free on that side? air pressure in tyres different wear/brands of tyres suspension top mounts OK? is the steering rack free and smooth in operation you can check your camber with a spirit level and a flat bit of road That's all I can think of at the mo. David.

General condition is more important on a car of this age than service history, I wouldn't value a perfect VAG history much myself on a 10 yr plus car. If it was a five year old golf then that's a different matter, but with a Corrado most of your potential customers will have enough trouble finding a tidy one, let alone one with all it's history laid out. Try to get as much info and paperwork on the car together as you can, receipts for anything and the name and contact details of any garage that has serviced it. You can always say to any potential customer they are free to take it for an MOT, and if they buy you'll knock it off the sale price? AA reports etc.. seem too pricey to me. David.

yep, just internally polished, exchange from TSR. I also reckon higher lift cams would give another 5-10bhp peak but at the expense of torque and general driveability, OK for a lighter golf but not what I want in the Corrado. Standard K-jet with a slightly adjusted Warm Up Regulator. David.

Had a good result at Stealth on Friday, an hours worth of Rolling road tuning time and I'm a happy customer. My new block is just getting run in so I thought I'd get it properly set up, here's the results: 2.0 block with ported and polished head and manifolds and standard 1.8 cams, 175bhp 153lbft and 138bhp at the wheels. :D

Did a little experiment on the way home friday, kept checking the idling oil pressure as the temp went up. Although by 70 degrees (oil) the pressure is starting to drop at idle, it's not really until 80 degrees that I get the normal variation in pressure from 1-4K revs. So I reckon any earlier than 80 degrees and you're really increasing the pressure if you hammer the car to the redline, that's on Quantum silver on a 16v. David.

Feb '96 so that's umm.. 9 yrs 8months ? David.

Is threadlock a good idea on there then, my cam cover nuts seem to undo when nipped up without a bit of threadlock, although that might be partly due to the stupid rubber gaskets. David.

It's a 16v, all the power is over 4.5K :lol: Cane it, it does it good :twisted: David.

My handbook just states to not drive the car hard until the oil temp registers on the MFA (50 deg), It probably makes little difference but I tend to wait till nearer 80 before hammering it. I have a pressure guage and idle pressure doesn't drop from well over 4 bar until the oil's getting close to 80. Then you get a nice movement from 2 to 5 on the gauge as you accelerate from idle to 4000+ rpm, so the oil has obviously changed by this point. David.

hate to say it but mondeos are pretty good if you can get into the new shape ones, more car for the money than a focus. A friend had a couple of year old laguna, on the face of it a lot of car for the money, but it had fault after fault and he's part ex'ed it for an old shape Avensis, much happier now. David.

This is a trial to see if it affects traffic flow, it started some months back on my section of the M1 nr Northampton, problem was the 'helpful messages' were displayed when all 3 lanes were full of traffic and lane hopping was actually difficult or dangerous. The other trick is using the centre reservation speed signs to show 50mph just to try to balance out the traffic flow, there's never any reason and the traffic never slows unless it has to. Other helpful messages incluse 'take a break, don't drive tired' and don't use your phone whilst driving' only slightly more useful than '60 miles away on the m6 a lane is blocked' - could have guessed that myself in the rush hour :roll: David.

do you have wheel hp? torque sounds a bit high but pretty characteristic of a healthy standard 2.0 16v, good torque but peak hp limited by the inlet cam, CAT and standard map. I suppose it may have been chipped. A piccy of the rr plot would help too, to compare with others. David.

I've been thinking about one of these for my C for a long time: David.

use the 42mm and get the lower half polished and port matched to the head 8) that works great on the 2.0 also, will give plenty of flow on all but the wildest head and cams without low end suffering. David. I'll prove this again on friday, Stealth tune up :D

I'll get one for you tomorrow mate I need to pick up a few bits from the scrappy, I bet the garage forgot to put it back or didn't push it home properly, have you checked in your scuttle tray, they might have left it there :lol: 02A 301 115A the technical term is: PLUG over 15 quid from VAG :shock: David.

I was just about to direct someone there for info when I got that, back now though, banking error paying their provider apparently

check the plugs if you think it's running rich, they can tell you a lot about the condition of engine and fuelling. If you get less than 30mpg average (tank to tank - don't trust computer) then it could be in need of a tune up and new plugs etc.. If you do a lot of town driving the 1.816v in the corrado is not very efficient, heavy car and poor low end torque. As a guide, I've never got less that 28mpg average from mine, mixture of driving, and it's usually around 33/34mpg, and that's with a 2.0 bottom end added. There's no substitute for a rolling road setup, I'm off to Stealth next week for just that, should be IRO an hours labour, which is about the same as the cost of a tankful of fuel! David.

Owners Manual? All VW's I've had specify the grade of oil required in the manual, ring your local dealer with your chassis No. or reg plate if still not totally sure. David.

it all comes to bits, see http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30770 but I'd take the panel off the tailgate and check for power to the motor when you operate the switch, could be a relay or fuse if there's nothing there. Before removing and taking it all to pieces, control module, relay or fuse problems are the most common cause but make sure under manual winding it's free from microswitch click to click (fully down to fully up) about 2 full turns. David.

My spoiler started squeeking a couple of years back, thought I'd try a bit of talc, then silicone grease and spray, seemed to help for a while but then it came back months later. Eventually the other week the spoiler started groaning quite badly at the nearly full up position, both going up and down, culminating in it actually jamming up, although coming down with the under-dash switch. I had a spare unit so swapped them over, last night I took the old one apart to investigate. Although the drive cables are sort of separated from the spoiler supports and should be free from moisture that drains down past the support seals, in practice over the years the guide tubes have gone rusty inside and with no lubricant or way of getting lubricant in from outside one had finally almost siezed. Using the manual knob inside the tailgate panel to raise/lower the spoiler you could feel the restriction. Good news is that taking it all apart you could free it off pretty much completely, bit of WD40 and manually pushing the cable right in and out of the tube. I would suggest that it's good preventative maintenance to take off the rear panel and manually operate the spoiler from time to time to check for any restriction and probably to take it apart and clean it, couple of hours to do carefully, a bit of silicone grease on the drive cables (they're plastic coated) would probably keep it going for years to come. All the parts come apart pretty easily, only the power cable runs and clips are a bit of a fiddle. Just thought I'd let others know they would benefit from a little service once in every ten years or so :) David.

sounds right to me, if you push the car without the driveshafts in, the bearings break apart so it makes sense.

Well it can't be cam belt tensionner or water pump idler pulley (another thing prone to breaking up on early 1.8 16v's) as you say it doesn't happen with the car stationary or the clutch in. That narrows it down to components that move when the ncar is in motion and the gearbox being driven from the engine. So it's not wheel bearings, brakes or drive shaft joints, could be clutch or gearbox internals. The critical part on the valvers is the timing belt tensionner and belt, most other things will just leave you stranded if they let go. Always replace a timing belt and tensionner on a 16v if you are unsure of it's age/mileage or hear noise from the tensionner bearing, this can be more easily identified by removing the other drive belts and running the engine just for a few moments, removing the tensionner and feeling the smoothness on the bearing is another option. reading your post again I'm a bit confused by what you describe, but it sounds more like a water pump idler pulley than the cam belt tensionner, do you have two pulleys on your water pump, the bigger one should just deflect the belt around the pump up to the alternator and not actually drive it, the copper mesh bearing surface in these breaks up, the main issue then being the noise, which can be intermittent as you describe. David.