davidwort

the bulbs do blacken with time, I'd put some new ones in.

The 1.8 goes perfectly well when set up right, even on the heavier-than-mk2 corrado shell, something is amiss for sure. If the cam belt pulley marks all line up and the flywheel mark tallies, and when running it idles at around 6 degrees advance (bin the kstar for now) then I'd consider checking the inter-cam marks, these little 'o' marks should point at each other at tdc, perhasp the chain was changed and these were never set right. I'm assuming it has the correct plugs and they are in good nick, cap, rotor etc. Ideally a system pressure check would be done, including the control pressure from/to the warm up regulator, at least check the metering head flap moves smoothly. You could also do an injector spray test visually, and measuring delivery into bottles, jumping the fuel pump relay connections on the fuseboard and using the battery connection to make/break power to the pump, open the airbox and wedge the metering flap open a little to simulate air flow. then check spray patterns are noce cones and delivery over 1 minute is even between injectors. I'd also set the base timing advance to 7 or 8 personally, if mit doesn't pink under hard load at low revs, I've run 1.8 and 2L lumps like this fine on regular unleaded.

yep, I'd love to know how to get perfect grouting, can never seem to get it spot on, I've done 4 bathrooms and showers now and it just takes so much planning to get the layout, joints and corners in the right places etc. Full tiling around window openings was my pet hate. A decent quality tile cutter, the score and break, with a lever arm type thing, is definitely a boost, as is a water cooled electric tile cutter, and a hole cutter makes for neat pipe outlets.

N plate 2.0 16v? HG isn't too bad, been a few threads recently about doing 4cyl gaskets, you'll need a spline tool for the head bolts, new gasket for the upper to lower inlet manifold, a new exhaust manifold to downpipe gasket (the six bolt two pipe one if you leave the exhaust manifold bolted to head) and a new cam belt and tensionner is a good idea while it's apart. new coolant (two 1L bottles ofr G12+ (or ++ or whatever it is now)) should be enough obviously new head bolts and gasket, and a stanley paint scraper tool to CAREFULLY clean gasket of the surfaces cams/timing belt pulleys are marked, so as long as you don't touch the distributor position then it will all bolt back together in the right place, just be careful to tension the timing belt afterwards turn over by hand a couple of rotations and then check the pulley marks, intermediate pulley position is not important on a 16v as it doesn't drive the dizzy, it is on the 8v 2.0 though.

They're just slightly bonkers, breathing petrol fumes for too many years, it does get a bit boring seeing posts with the same questions time and time again, but I think most of us are pretty helpful especially to new users, it's nice to see a bit of an attempt to find answers in older posts though :)

I think your spelling needs to improve. Does seem to be a lull at the moment, perhaps all the corrados are working perfectly, or all on sorn?

2 types, 4 cylinder and vr6, 4 cyl one is mk2 type iirc

You'll need to remove the steering column to do it that way, even with the 13mm pinch bolt removed the UJ can't slide off the splines on the end of the column at that angle.

^ I remember the dealerships replacing badges stolen for free, imagine that, free corrado badges from vw!

no, 850 minimum, varies slightly from 1.8 to 2L systems but shouldn't be as low as 600 on either car

Bent a wishbone at any time? Or moved the bottom ball joint in the end of the wishbone?

mk2 golf and 1988-1996 passat part on the corrado, but it should be the type with a hydraulic insert (the top of the mount is a metal dome) rather than the smaller golf engines which just had a solid rubber mount, i.e. mk2 16v golf or G60 mounting same part on all corrados with 4 cylinder engines, 2.0 8v, 1.8 and 2.0 16v and 1.8 G60 official part number is 357199279B (hydrualic mounting)

Golf, passat, corrado 1.8 or 2.0 16v of a 1986-1996 vintage will do, up to 1992 for the golf i.e. not mk3 golf

First few posts, just to make sure you're not a spammer :)

I thought that was funny too, but I guess they mean there's an advantage over a power assisted hydraulic only system where you need to turn the wheel first before you then get assistance, but I can't really see the advantage over a hydro-electric system, you'd just be putting the steering position sensors on the steering wheel rather than at the rack? i guess the real advantage is in weight and cost and in theory fewer moving/ wearing parts. I suppose brakes, gearboxes, throttle control and everything else has gone remote so it's the last mechanical system to go. It really will be like driving on an Xbox soon, pass me the force-feedback steering wheel it's my go!

The next obvious development would be wireless steering, is there an app for that???

... To remove any kind of steering/road feel from new cars, nissan steer by wire: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-19979380

huge voltage drop to most of the circuits behind the dash, you really need a direct feed (fused) from the battery and then use an ignition switched circuit to trigger a relay to feed your voltmeter if you want an accurate battery reading. See what yo are getting at the glovebox light or similar first with a multimeter though, it might be near enough to show you a good/bad reading if your alternator failed, but TBH you'll get a red light on the dash if that happens!

All you can really test is that the solenoid actually activates, i.e. the valve opens with 12v supplied, this won't tell you if it's operating completely correctly (duty cycle I think it's called), as the amount/duration of air bleed is controlled by the ECU. The easiest way is to swap to a car that you know idles correctly, otherwise you need to know the correct duty cycle and have the kit to test this off the car. In my experience the valves stick a little when worn so you'll either get revs hanging too high or dropping too low and hunting, sometimes this can be eased a little by cleaning and lubricating but once the solenoid is out of tolerance they'll never respond correctly.

Irwin bolt grippers or similar?

Heat it rather than attempt to remove moisture from the air, that coupled with insulation as others have said and make sure moisture isn't leaking in from gutters, downpipes or even through the brick, single skinned brick can let a fair amount of water through in heavy rain. You just need a low wattage space heater, like those used to prevent frost in greenhouses, dehumidifiers are a waste of money if you're not actually solving the moisture ingress problem, fine for drying out building work or from flood damage, but not as a long term solution.

I had a look at the ad but it didn't stack up

hey! that advert's the last straw...

maybe, maybe not, none seem to be as thick at the welds as the VAG ones, I'd still give them a coat of at least protective wax as they'll rust away quite well with only a winter's worth of salt spray fired at them, stainless washers would be even better if we could find some of that size.

There does seem to be some variation in unit depth, I usually remove the passenger under tray so I can get my hand up the back of the centre console to guide the cables at the back of the head unit into place so nothing gets trapped. Also, some rubber/bolt supports on the back of head units are a less than perfect fit into the corrado dash rear metal head unit support bracket.