davidwort

no, your coil generates the spark for every turn of the engine :) hall sender or coil could be going dodgy.

koni rear dampers with adjustable spring base plates is what I used on the valver with eibachs, in fact I had two extra grooves machined into them to raise it a bit more.

The tip I had from someone a while ago (can't remember if it was on here) was to buy the mk2 pattern ones and fill the gap between the plate and the rubber with poly resin! The ones I've seen fail are down to the rubber failing so that makes a lot of sense :)

Coilovers have their own equivalent to the vag top plate built in, totally different story compared to standard struts where one top mount won't fit with the wrong spring top plate. and on the weight thing, a Corrado 16v is well over 100kg heavier than a MK 2 gti and a fair amount of that is in the front body panels, once you add on the heavier 02A gearbox and various other differences including stiffer springs and harder tyre pressures you can see the mounts get more of a hammering. The g60 mk2 also had heavy duty top mounts (the Corrado/passat part) as that had harder suspension and the 02a gearbox, plus the heavier g60 engine.

All but the very last year of production of 4 cylinder corrados have mk2 golf style top mounts, the pattern mounts are not heavy duty enough for the weight at the front of a Corrado which is partly why the pattern ones don't last. if you want to fit the vr6/mk3 gti/mk4 type top mounts and bearings you will also need crossover mk3 or Corrado vr6 spring top plates (later mk3 top plates are a different diameter) and bump stops and dust covers. top hats (bit you see under the bonnet) are allegedly interchangeable between the two types of top mount, but as you can see the swapping to vr top mounts is not quite straightforward.

Screwed up newspaper was as good as most off the shelf products I saw in a test once :) ive got one of these :lol: Karcher window vac http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kärcher-WV-Window-Cleaning-Vacuum/dp/B004E9QSO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1358673666&sr=8-1

That sounds really good Jim, can see why they are a legal requirement in eastern/northern Europe in the winter, modern trend for large and wide tyres doesn't help either, polo I had on 145's was good in the snow, and barely enough power to induce wheel spin :) it just makes me even more amused at the idiots in 4x4's, did you see the news much today? One 4x4 I saw on it's side, another (newish range rover) had skidded and pushed a jag over a 20 ft drop off a road into a garden, itself left dangling on the top of the drop. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-21085450

I'd be suspicious about the block, I had one bored out once and they must have not bored it straight or something, twice rebuilt with new pistons and failed again, not the same as this had piston and bore scoring. was it rebuilt with the same oil pump? I'd have thought a fuelling issue would damage the bore rather than the crank bearings, worth calling someone like Vince at stealth and see if he has any ideas, he's seen more vr blocks than most!

Those 'unknown' items are knock sensors.

To be fair some of the new plugs will do 100k, for most people that means it will be someone else's problem :lol:

You say your car has a 1.8t engine, I'd suggest you get a softer spec vibratechnics, the 'road' type as a maximum. I know you say cost is an issue, you might find a second hand one if you are lucky. A pattern standard mount won't last 5 minutes, false economy, and a genuine vag hydraulic mount will probably be as much as the vt. theres no escaping it though, you need to spend what you need to spend for the right quality kit, cheaper parts - been there, done that :) the solid mount is just a no-no for me, it's just asking for trouble, I'm sure you can find people who have driven cars with them and think they are great, but how long did they keep the car???

Don't, not on a road car, something else will break, the mounting bushes for the front cross member will be the only point of give at the front, vibration will be the least of your problems. Stiffer mountings are bad enough, they put more shock and strain on cv joints, gearbox etc. mounts are carefully selected to provide enough damping for the power and weight of a specific engine, if you have other engine mods, then a slightly stiffer front mount is all you need, new standard mounts elsewhere.

the big spring is corrado (4 cylinder engine) specific, unique length presumably. the new compensator comes with the plastic end the spring hooks onto and the other end just bolts in place, not sure what the problem is? But as I said earlier in the thread if the valve doesn't return on it's own then it needs replacing as it's becoming siezed.

I'm always about, sherry pearl 8v usually, as I drive that daily, happy to chat about corrados anytime :)

Doesn't it just, my neighbours Volvo saloon is 6 years old and has just needed a diesel particulate filter, steering lock and switch and abs/skid control unit, over a grand plus labour and then a clutch, 1500 quid fitted!

Lave, Viper, python, trading in narcotics, I loved that game

Quite liked the look of the twin turbo R32 I saw in Germany, although that wouldn't be much good in the UK without lupo/audi wiper arms and headlight relays :lol:

there's plenty of threads on refurbing the suspension and chassis components, it depends how far you want to go, track rods with inner joints shold be checked as they eventually get play in them, what are your engine mounts like?

check the wiring close to the pressure switches too, they often corrode where they are crimped into the spade connectors also, if it really is the oil light then a dodgy switch, wiring or low pressure will also result in a warning beeping from the instrument cluster

They're also glued in place/sealer, you need to tap some of them round with a plastic mallet as the alloy cap is relatively soft

Some febi branded bits are pretty ropey, lemforder appear to be genuine oem parts, at least the 80 quid wishbones seem to be.

can't see why you would need to do it on the ground, the bush doesn't pivot like the rear beam bushes so the tightening position won't matter. If it keeps working loose then either the bolt or captive nut might be damaged?

Drain the oil and remove the bottom bush, see what's going on, I wonder if the forks are damaged somehow?

think I've got a used spare at home in bits, I'll have a look at how it's assembled and worn

that impeller doesn't look like it's pressed onto the shaft all the way!? it also looks like it's been scoring against the other half of the casing, does it actually turn at all when together!!!?