davidwort

got any pics? what sort of state is the impeller in? some are plastic and can break or seem to corrode/chip away are you sure it wasn't just the thermostat?, I'm assuming you changed that when fitting the new pump.

Old one should just slot back, the early cars had narrower bottom bearings, that's where you need to match the shaft and the cap on the bottom of the box, the later wider ones have a vw logo on the bottom cap iirc, I have a thread somewhere on changing the towers and pics of about 4 different ones here you go: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?34328-changes-in-02A-selector-towers-and-shafts&highlight=Selector+tower

That's the same top and bottom box my dad bought last year, but in the plain red, eye-watering even with a very good sale price! Built beautifully though :)

do you drive in bare feet :)

I've put mats in the bath before, soaked in bio washing liquid then tread on them to squeeze the dirt out, unless you can use a large launderette machine I think you'd have to bend the mats too much and damage them

I think this is partly a small lesson about connectors to use under the bonnet, they should have 2 crimps that peel over in an 'm' shape as with the OEM ones, the inner one making the contact with the cable and the outer clamping the insulation, as well as making a firmer grip on the cable this helps prevent moisture entering the insulation and corroding the wires especially in an exposed position like the battery positive terminals. I hate the modern cheap radio/alarm install crush type connectors, 9 times out of 10 you see bare conductors sticking out of the back of the connector when you look under the dash of an old car. Trouble is they are cheaper and quicker than the proper connectors, and the crimping tools for the proper connectors are much harder to find. As RW1 has done, if you need to add any more connections for headight relays etc, it's always better to add some extra protection like heat-shrink tubing over the cable end and crimps. It's a good reminder to check things like live feed cables and fuel lines in the engine bay at regular intervals along with the things that can let you down less seriously like water hoses, sensor connectors and aux belts.

:scratch: Can't think why... surely you must have noticed how crap it drove well before it got that bad? I can even see bead sticking out of the rubber, it must have shaken bad at 60.

when you say the car is soaking, do you mean carpets or windows?, because even if the carpets are bone dry the door membranes may not seal properly and let damp air into the car from the insides of the doors, ideally you need an almost complete seal with the membranes so make sure there are no rips even if the bottom looks sealed to stop water actually dripping into the car. Took me all the way to work to demist my rear window today (17 miles with the heater on and passenger window open) and I've recently redone the drivers side seal, all floors and carpets are bone dry, but the bit of moisture that does get in on the air all condenses on the rear screen, before I did the drivers door it would be like that on the front screen too and water was not actually dripping in anywhere.

I'd put in what vw intended, it's still the same engine with the same tolerances, but any quality branded oil of the right spec should be fine.

Spark plug socket with hex around the top will also do it, and a long Allen key to go down the middle or a lambda sensor removal tool/socket of the appropriate size

Pmsl, had to check the ip addresses just to make sure this wasn't fabricated, "When you're in a hole, stop digging" comes to mind :lol:

Happy crimbo everyone, just had an early present from the inlaws as they are away tomorrow, a rigid towing bar with damper, cheek! :lol:

Totally different afaik, Bosch alternator with v belt is nothing like the setup on a MK 3, you'd likely need everything off the 1.8, possibly including pas setup, it could be done but the mk3 system is much better and quieter so I wouldn't go back to the older setup. Alternator wiring connections are probably different too.

I'm probably wrong then, unusual to have a brown that isn't earth, but if the brown/ white corresponds to earth from Jsc's connections then that must be right, I think brown/ white is used as earth colour elsewhere in the car.

Assuming you have twin gauges, then brown is obviously earth, red and black should be the 12v ign switched supply. The others should be the feed out to the variable connection on the sender and illumination. You could just connect up the earth and then 12v to the others in turn to work out what is what, can't see I doing any harm as everything is 12v anyway.

...

so, all these people expecting the end of the world, will they be so disappointed that they commit suicide if it doesn't happen??? Think I'd rather have a NUTS or if money was no object a Pirelli calendar, Mayan one doesn't sound very entertaining.

The polo one I've got from GSF works perfectly, think it was about 7 quid with trade discount. when you say the car is unable to move are you sure it's the lock barrel and not the steering lock and housing?? or the ignition switch??

the matrix is 40 or 50 quid, plus a day taking bits out from under the dash, it's fiddliy but not rocket-science, either have a go yourself (guide on the forum) or find someone who'll do it for a few quid cash in hand one weekend, you don't need to remove the whole dash.

did I miss-read that?

FFS, 15 quid is like less than a hundred miles petrol in a Corrado, or about 4 pints, and given the amount of time and effort a lot of people have put into organising events and the sprinter over the years I've no beef with putting the subs back to where they were more than 10 years ago... Please don't make me read the sprinter 'Kindle edition' either :) ---------- Post added at 2:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:21 PM ---------- Imagine, opening a happy meal and finding a herpa corrado in a little plastic packet... sweet!

yeah, can't see a two pole M10x1 on there???

this would be the one (for 0-10 bar gauge scale), previous page from Jon_vr6's link above, M10x1mm is the thread needed http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p10741/VDO-10-BAR-PRESSURE-SENDER-M10-x-1/product_info.html

As usual I get side-tracked by totally unimportant fiddling around but I might as well share. After borrowing the old-man's A6 again recently I started to get a bit jealous that you can actually see things in the cockpit at night, so I thought I'd have a go at adding a few LED's about the place. The air vents are a bit tricky, I have an A6 vent with the illuminated thumb wheel but there's no way of fitting the wheel really as the mechanism is totally different to the Corrado one, shame as they look really smart, I think the Bora has something similar. I have one mini 12v red LED behind the dash centre trim where the thumb wheel sticks out and you can see the bottom of the wheel, just, at night, but I need to experiment more there. The door pulls seemed like a better bet, I bought 10 standard and 10 mini 12v LED's off ebay a while back, complete with little surface mount clips, one is already in the centre console bin (which is empty on the 8v) and has been really handy, sanding the dome of the LED makes a nice even red glow instead of a focussed beam, so I thought I'd try a mini one in the door lever. unfortunately there's no 12v feed that is permanent into the doors, the electric window and mirror switches are only ignition on live.[ATTACH=CONFIG]71161[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]71162[/ATTACH] so I had to run a new feed from the main dash, I used the same point on the ash-tray illumination that I used for the LED in the centre console bin [ATTACH=CONFIG]71170[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]71171[/ATTACH] I then ran it with the existing loom up to the door mirror connection block and then along to the handle position [ATTACH=CONFIG]71169[/ATTACH] with the door release lever surround out of the car I drilled a small hole for the led mounting clip [ATTACH=CONFIG]71158[/ATTACH] here's the mini 12v LED and mounting clip [ATTACH=CONFIG]71159[/ATTACH] and in position, almost flush mounted and then clipped onto the door skin [ATTACH=CONFIG]71160[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]71166[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]71165[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]71168[/ATTACH] only short wire on the LED, so soldered to new length of wire and heat-shrink-tubed [ATTACH=CONFIG]71163[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]71164[/ATTACH] the final result at night, and it dims with the dash dimmer nicely too, just need a small delay unit now, perhaps an old centre light unit to keep the illumination on for a minute after the sidelights are switched off. [ATTACH=CONFIG]71175[/ATTACH] I've also added another LED to the top surface of the passenger under dash tray, again slightly sanded to disperse the light, so there's a nice soft red glow under the dash so you can see what's on the shelf :)

you need a variable-output pressure sender, not just the 'trip-switch' type senders on the car as standard, so you either need the twin-connection or dual-pole sender (which has a built in low-pressure trip-sensor and a variable output), or a T-piece so you can screw in a variable output pressure sender too. Some cars have the extra wire already in the loom, blue/white IIRC which runs from the existing pressure switches to behind the fuseboard, otherwise you need to make everything up. with the variable sensor make sure you get the right range, there are two, 0-5 and 0-10 bar AFAIK, yoiu need one to match the scale on your gauge, usually 0-10. If you get a dual pole one, make sure the fixed pressure switch value matches the old switch you remove or your dash warning buzzer for low oil pressure will go off! pressure switch values are all embossed on the base of the switches. switches are usually around 0.25 and 1.8 bar, and the two values provide warning of low pressure at idle and above 2,500 rpm - ish