davidwort

I wonder why, or what's different about them, there's next to no difference in gasket thickness between the original and the metal ones, I used a MK 3 gasket but standard 16v bolts, perhaps the tall blocks do use longer bolts, but that wouldn't apply to a 6A or 9A short block ??

Never had any issue with different head bolts on my 1.8 o 2.0 L Corrado blocks, only ever ordered the standard golf mk2 16v head bolts and I've used a variety of gaskets, metal MK 3 one on my 2L block right now, possibly different on the golf3 tall block abf engine ???

I have one from my 1990 16v they are def 5.5 J

a belt and tensionner from euro car parts or GSF will be fine, sensors should be OK too, you can try VW for the sensor, see if they come back with a half sensible price though! idle at cold could be a number of things, I think your year uses a proper MAF rather than the '94 8v that uses a digifant flappy air meter gate thing, could always be a dodgy MAF, start with they cheap and easy first, cleaning and the temp sensor :)

waterpump is not on the cambelt so only change that if it needs replacing (i.e. leaking!) these engines are interference so it's a good idea to get the cambelt and tensionner done the ISV (Idle valve) on the top back of the cam cover could probably do with a good clean with carb cleaner, other than that the throttle body can always do with a clean but these engines are pretty robust, plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor could probably do with changing if not done for a while. coolant temp sensor has two circuits (for ECU and dash reading I think) both can be checked with a multimeter, get the resistance at cold, fully hot and in between as it warms or cools, just to see if it's giving a sensible range. No ppoint in changing it if it's OK. Oh, get them to check the rear brake bias valve is nice and free, same goes for the handbrake release mechs on the rear calipers, always worth a check of the rear beam bushes and wishbone (rear bushes) on the front of the car as well as play in the inner and outer track rod joints (which makes a big difference to driving/steering feel)

link doesn't work for me, no-one wanted sebrings until a couple of years ago, they're OK, but not exactly the nicest looking wheel in the world and they're only 5 1/2 J which doesn't control the tyres as well as most other 15" alloys which tend to be 6J

Yep, and down into the rear quarter, rear door cards aren't air tight so air can flow all around them and down.

All dubs have them back to the mk1s, theyre actually there to let air out so the blower can blow air into the car! Sometimes fitted in the doors under the card

that's fine if the rear bumper has been off recently, but if it's not been off in 20yrs then you better crack open the Irwin bolt grippers :)

same problem on my mk4 golf, it's infuriating, only the drivers door does this, another door or tailgate open and it shuts fine, all the other doors shut fine, but just the driver's door with all the others closed and it has a habit of just catching but not closing fully. I'd imagine it's a combination of worn/sagging door seals, worn hinges (hinge pins?) and position of the striker.

I'll see you there too...

probably :) can't think at the moment...

^ so good he had to repeat it 3 times :)

oh well, not the starter or solenoid then if it was turning over :) ---------- Post added at 9:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 9:45 AM ---------- sounds more like one of the engine sensors (CPS?) one of the VR experts will know. I've swapped solenoids off old starters but as they are usually a whole unit on exchange I doubt you could buy the solenoid separately, but I'm sure they could be refurbed

you can swap the solenoids, but I'd only attempt to get one off with the starter off the car. I suppose the earths could be an issue, there's a number of them IIRC, from the solenoid to starter and starter to the body of the car, also the energising feed to the solenoid gets weak with age, not sure if this is wiring, relay or ignition switch related though. some people even add another relay (like with headlight looms) so the solenoid gets full voltage at cranking, and just use the existing feed to trigger the relay.

^ see page 2

classic starter solenoid trouble, heat from the engine weakening the electro magnet on a hot start

Welcome to the forum! We need pics and info though :)

the contacts and moving parts of the switch do wear out, does sound like this rather than a motor issue.

either it's been sprayed in a nasty late 90's VW colour or it's just a random respray, not an original Corrado colour.

there's a few potential suspects, the thermotimeswitch on the side of the head (large sensor) may be old and giving an incorrect voltage, this would affect the cold start valve (the 5th injector that squirts horizontally into the inlet manifold) It could also be the cold start injector itself or the idle stabalisation valve (ISV) the cylindrical metal unit on the right hand end of the head with an elec. connector and breather pipes in/out of it. The isv may not be operating correctly when very cold (it's an electromagnet so will weaken with age) and so the air bleed into the inlet is incorrect, causing stalling/lumpy, bouncing idle.

that was going to be exactly my response, and the no.1 problem with this setup is VW UK will allow them to keep their franchises as long as they keep up their new sales figures, pretty much regardless of reputation, so aftersales care is poor. Personally, I know this doesn't help one jot, but if I was to buy a new or nearly new car I'd either avoid franchises (becoming impossible with today's cars) or swap to someone like toyota/honda with a much better reputation in aftersales.

no idea, it makes little sense other than the exact centre position of the rack and pinion, I've never set them 'correctly' and it has no effect on the car but if you want to do it by the book, then G60 185/195 tres is 379.5mm +/- 1mm if it's a G60 with factory 205's then it has different track rods so is 283mm instead VR6 is plus axle so different values again, 406mm all above taken from Bentley, so US spec Corrados?

yep, the hall sender (on the dizzy) uses a magnetic field being broken by the rotation inside your distribitor to tell the ECU when to trigger a spark for each firing point, they can fail entirely when a wire breaks etc, but also seem to suffer from a more sporadic breakdown of the signal sometimes, an LED test light is needed to test for total failure, intermittent problems are harder to diagnose. Make sure the inside of your distributor and cap are clean and free from oil or moisture. An exchange complete distributor is often a better buy than just the hall sender which is quite expensive on it's own and hard to fit (a pin needs to be pressed out of the distributor shaft). Often the distributor shaft and seals have worn too although 8v ones are generally better than the 16v ones that are prone to oil leaking into them due to the angle they are installed at.

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