davidwort

no, corrado specific bits I'm afraid. you're better off sourcing some second hand proper corrado electric window regulators, which don't need to be run with the factory window control box, you can still keep the permanent live aftermarket switches, unless you want to go to the trouble of fitting the full loom and control box.

Yep, exactly my experience :)

but not on a lhd car, or should that be not on a car in a lhd country :) you can't set toe without the other wheel :) it's just about rack position as far as I can see, it doesn't matter how long the track rod is set to as long as the wheels end up parallel, I still don't understand what rw1 says, I can't see how tyre wear could happen if the rod isn't set to spec if the toe is still zero. I can only see that tyre fouling might happen on full lock.

it's quite handy to have more right hand lock for mini-roundabouts :) I've never set the track rods to the correct measurement and never noticed any issue (195 50 15 tyres on 4 cyl), certainly not tyre wear, I guess it may be more important on 205 tyres though where wheel clearance could be more of an issue. Might as well set it up to spec if you get the chance though. can someone explain why the wider tyres on the G60 would need a larger measurement? the rack, track rods and hubs are the same, wheel offset isn't going to change how far away the ball joints are from the rack :scratch:

It's a while since I read up on it, but I don't think you can compare the ratings, I'm sure the US values are lower for the equivalent fuel, even if US fuel grade is slightly lower (not sure it is anymore anyway)

I've just heard from Eric, the matrix failed, vw forgot to use hose clamps on the new matrix, when the car filled with steam he went to slam on the brakes and they failed where the garage had jacked it on the brake pipes, they're still trying to cut him out of the shorted electric seatbelts afaik :) what? ... Well it's plausible??? But seriously, glad they seemed to have done a good job, not bad they supplied and fitted a new air con matrix after 20 odd years!

swap your wheels around first as that costs nothing (careful if they are directional), then go from there.

plus the £6 postage :)

I don't think it will be the solenoid on the starter as supercharged says, they usually stick with heat soak from an engine that has been running, e.g. after parking up at a filling station. It's worth checking though, before you strip the ignition switch out, as it's easy to check for power at the solenoid and you can remove the solenoid without removing the starter motor itself.

they're strong enough, but a bit too far back for my liking, especially if the VR lump stays in the bay!

Hi! :)

I just used the strengthened floor area in between the sill and subframe mount, I think there's a 'ribbed' section that is particularly strong, or a slightly lower area next to it, you want to protect the underseal though, rag/wood, cardboard or something between the stand top and car.

1080p video of the drive up to, and parking up on the Brooklands banking (5 minutes long) taken on my dash mounted kodak playsport, android app runs it fine but I have had trouble with the web page version through Internet Explorer 9, had to change the resolution to 720p from the default 360p

The 1.8 is a basic K-jet engine, it was designed to run on 4 star, which has an octane rating somewhere between current regular and super-unleaded. It doesn't have knock sensors and so is the only Corrado that should only be run on super-unleaded, all the other's can knock back their ignition advance to run on the lower octane fuel. Having said that, 1.8's vary due to varying tolerances and engine condition, some seem to run OK on 95. Pinking does start before it is audible though, so it's safer to run it on super. Without actually rolling-roading the car and checking for power loss and pinking you can simply run the car till hot, then drive up a hill in 4th or 5th and floor the throttle at about 35-40mph, if it's going to pink it'll pink then. You can knock the distributor advance back a little (crude as it knocks back the whole rev range advance), you will lose a little power but pinking should be avoided. Years ago, piggy back ECU's for the K-jet ignition ECU were available to crudely map/alter the ignition curve, allowing cars to run on 95 without losing top end power, but without converting to full stand-alone ECU and electronic injection you'll struggle to find something now I think. (k-star and V-sam were two crude systems) I doubt if anyone has the software and knowledge to set them up now though. In summary, I doubt you'll burn through a piston with the occasional pinking that you'll most likely get on an old 16v, the car is more likely to rust to pieces first :) but see if you can induce pinking by labouring the engine and if it doesn't do it then you should be fine.

Keep a look out for me, sherry pearl. 8v from j10 m40, should be on there about 8.30

It does look like the rain is holding off, just checked the rainfall radar

not with Wendy maybe :) but I'll be tootling along in the 8v :)

don't hold it hard on full lock for long, no good for the PAS system :) just off full lock would be better :)

let's turn this into the nuts and bolts 'thread' 'scuse the pun :lol:

see my gearshift bushing/tower thread, there's pics of the original throw and the 25% reduction from the passat relay plate: here I wrote it's about 13cm as standard.

yep, only the auto-box version is any different on the 4 cyl.

If you search the forum MT90 will come up as a favourite, about the right spec for the 02A gearbox, although Castrol SMX-S and VW's own fully synthetic gear oil is a similar price and just as good and possibly easier to get hold of, Halfords certainly used to do SMX-S. .... they do: Halfords there's also the syntrax version, which may be better as it's 75/90 GL5 rather than smx 75/85 syntrax info - PDF smx-s - PDF syntrans, replacement for smx-s?

tyres, I've had some old ones that make a hell of a racket, sound similar to a badly worn bearing.

[TABLE=width: 583] [TR] [TD]Don't know if this helps at all, I started making a list of bolts to change on my 16v a couple of years back: 16v part[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]bolt P/N[/TD] [TD]Size[/TD] [TD]type[/TD] [TD]No. used[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]oil filter housing with washer[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD]M8x25-Z3[/TD] [TD]allen[/TD] [TD=align: right]4[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]water pump pulley[/TD] [TD]N 903 086 03[/TD] [TD]M8x14[/TD] [TD]allen[/TD] [TD=align: right]4[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]thermo-housing[/TD] [TD]N 010 222 8[/TD] [TD]M6x22[/TD] [TD]hex[/TD] [TD=align: right]2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]water pipe to head[/TD] [TD]N 014 703 5[/TD] [TD]M6x18[/TD] [TD]allen[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]CSV to manifold[/TD] [TD]N 014 703 5[/TD] [TD]M6x18[/TD] [TD]allen[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]water pipe to engine mount front[/TD] [TD]N 010 215 27[/TD] [TD]M6x15[/TD] [TD]hex[/TD] [TD=align: right]1[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]water flanges to head[/TD] [TD]N 010 217 10[/TD] [TD]M6x20[/TD] [TD]hex[/TD] [TD=align: right]5[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PAS pulley to pump[/TD] [TD]N 014 706 2[/TD] [TD]M8x12[/TD] [TD]allen[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PAS tension bracket to block (side)[/TD] [TD]N 010 340 4[/TD] [TD]M8x40[/TD] [TD]hex[/TD] [TD=align: right]2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PAS bracket to pump (front)[/TD] [TD]N 010 242 22[/TD] [TD]M8x25[/TD] [TD]hex[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PAS bracket to pump (side)[/TD] [TD]N 010 241 18[/TD] [TD]M8x22[/TD] [TD]hex[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PAS bracket to block (front)[/TD] [TD]N 010 345 10[/TD] [TD]M8x45[/TD] [TD]hex[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PAS bracket to block (front)[/TD] [TD]N 010 385 7[/TD] [TD]M8x85[/TD] [TD]hex[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PAS bracket to alt bracket (front)[/TD] [TD]N 100 113 01[/TD] [TD]M8x140[/TD] [TD]hex[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]rear suspension leg bottom[/TD] [TD]N 905 173 02[/TD] [TD]M10x75[/TD] [TD]hex[/TD] [TD=align: right]2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]self locking nut[/TD] [TD]N 102 090 05[/TD] [TD]M10[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]crank breather unit to block with washer (early)[/TD] [TD]N 100 227 01[/TD] [TD]M8x38Z3[/TD] [TD]allen[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]crank breather unit to block (late)[/TD] [TD]N 014 710 7[/TD] [TD]M8x20[/TD] [TD]allen[/TD] [TD=align: right]4[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]rear bumper[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD]M10x33[/TD] [TD]flanged hex[/TD] [TD=align: right]4[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]wishbone rear bush[/TD] [TD]191407181D[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]top mount (early passat type)[/TD] [TD=align: right]357412329[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]wishbone front bolt[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]wishbone rear bolt[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]subframe rearmost bolt 13mm[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]1[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]clutch 2E engine 1994[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]1[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]arb droplink complete[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]1[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]inner roll bar bush[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]front susp leg bottom bolt[/TD] [TD]N 903 237 04[/TD] [TD]M12x1.5thread[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]4[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]front susp leg bottom bolt nut[/TD] [TD]N 903 237 04[/TD] [TD]M12x1.5thread[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]front wishbone bolt[/TD] [TD]N 904 840 03[/TD] [TD]M12x1.5x82[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]hub to balljoint pinch bolt[/TD] [TD]N 903 289 01[/TD] [TD]M10x50[/TD] [TD]got[/TD] [TD=align: right]2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]hub to balljoint pinch bolt nut[/TD] [TD]N 102 861 02[/TD] [TD]M10[/TD] [TD]got[/TD] [TD=align: right]2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]rear wishbone bolt[/TD] [TD]N 102 078 03[/TD] [TD]M12x1.5x78[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]2[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

Why don't they contact the club to have the facts of the article proof read? (or the appropriate owner's club for any article) wouldn't cost them any more than an e-mail and would save them looking stupid or misinforming people?? Makes you wonder what other garbage gets printed and readers assume is factually correct because it's in print, at least with the web you can cross check with other sources to try to get to the truth, ...or just get 20 different answers :lol: I think I've been on the web too long, it's too easy to get lured into the 'someone is wrong on some minor point' mentality :lol: