davidwort

:) And this mag always amuses me when I see the cover 'total carp' http://www.totalcarpmagazine.com/

My first thought was 'leave as is and rent out to students' they'd only leave it looking this way anyway.

take a look at the house my dad has just bought :lol: It will have a new suite before it's rented out although he might get away with just a new bog seat :) should have taken a pic of the lounge walls, the smoke staining went from beige to dark brown as you go up the wall, worse than the biggest dive of a pub I've ever been in,absolutely unreal, only saving grace is no-one died there, bloke has recently been evicted, it was really like the worst episode of Grime Fighters, but that was after a lorry load of crap had been removed. I think they mixed wall filler in the sink :scratch: [ATTACH=CONFIG]68175[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]68174[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]68176[/ATTACH]

Track rod tool can be bought from quite a few places now, think I've seen them on eBay and amazon, not a vag one and can be had for 50 or 60 quid ish, not really worth it for home occasional use but pays for itself in no time in a garage I reckon, makes the job ad easy as undoing a wheel nut :)

Yep, I agree Steve, and this just shows how stupid I am, pattern ones lasted less than a year before starting to fail, probably sooner than that actually, they've been making noises after the first few weeks on the car tbh. so what have I done, yep, fitted more pattern ones :lol: just as well it doesn't cost me to get wheel alignment done. car is so much better on decent dampers, mind you the ones that have come off are the original factory ones!

When I can be bothered I put rain x on my windows, I find it particularly good on the rear screen, front I go on and off liking, depends on what sort of driving I'm doing.

and another pair of top mounts bites the dust, cheapo pattern of course, on one side the rubber came away from the metal and on the other the bearing came loose from the metal cap, I wondered why they were chattering :) [ATTACH=CONFIG]68155[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]68156[/ATTACH]

More 8v maintenance, air filter, fuel filter, Jim's old Koni dampers with some fresh paint and with new bushes and bump stops, top spring plates and a new brake bias valve as freeing off the old one for the mot finally did it in and it started to leak. good servce from avs, all the rubber bits and the spring top plates, and a bargain from carparts4less, ATE brake bias valve £45 delivered and an air filter for a fiver delivered [ATTACH=CONFIG]68153[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]68151[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]68149[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]68143[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]68154[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]68152[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]68150[/ATTACH]

I'll have one too please dave, just mounted print, but posted.

I'd be tempted to buy a mild steel pattern box kip, I've not heard a stainless system on the 16v that doesn't boom or resonate at some speeds, it's party due to the hardness of stainless but a lot to do with not having the big centre suitcase silencer. The mild steel suitcase really does quieten the whole system down.

same stuff but half the price delivered? http://www.homesteadcaravans.co.uk/under-bonnet-sound-insulation-kit/ neither of those are very pretty, a flat foam would look better IMO or this? http://www.carinsulation.co.uk/product/20mm_high_temp_car_insulation_foam

BBC news article http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-18762193 images taken from the mars rover. Well it looks like it to me???

Exactly how do you pronounce that 'Geoff Tite vehicle dismantlers'?

Invariably the car has been run overheating, so the head can be warped and if badly it may not be possible to skim and resurface, plus damage to the head or block that can occur when a gasket burns between two cylinders. But caught soon enough it may require nothing more than a clean of the mating surface and a new gasket, bolts, coolant, oil etc, plus all the labour. If you have a modern car with a very small coolant capacity, or something like a rover k-series engine, then you have less margin for loss and so a greater chance of serious heat damage.

12v applied will click them open and shut, but that doesn't mean they will operate smoothly and keep the revs balanced, no amount of cleaning fixes them sometimes.

personally, I wish someone would find the rather larger missing particles in the roads around here...

I think you're just affecting the idle by slipping the clutch, red herring really. you need to check everything related to the inlet manifold, take off for brake servo, all the vac pipes etc, idle issues are usually down to air leaks on the inlet side, the bouncing is the idle circuit trying to keep the idle steady against a leaking system.

At risk of starting a big old oil debate, there's not much point in putting fully synthetic in an older vw engine and unless you are treating the engine really harshly, boosted, racing etc, or doing big mileages before changes then synta semi is just fine. Just change it every year or 7-10k Iirc vr6 is just annoyingly over one bottle, so 5.5 litres?

No chance

4l of 10/40 semi synthetic is 8 quid from asda.

Ring tps in MK? They're in the book.

Listers, Coventry vw dealer, we're doing 5l of synta for 13 quid at the Stanford Hall show at the weekend, which seemed pretty cheap to me.

Another fuel pump relay in and a bit of oil cleaned off the inside of the distributor and hall sender and it's running fine, can't seem to get any misfire or anything, hot or cold, pulls fine, starts perfectly, so unless it dies totally again I'm not sure what happened.

I seem to remember them being glued together, I did manage to get them apart without totally destroying them though.

You can get them apart, but you need two bad ones to make a good, one connector always rots away, I bought one in about 1998 and it was 25 quid then, so I dread to think how much vw charge now, only other option is to use neat screen wash in the winter :)