davidwort

here you go, 15lb ft or 20Nm [ATTACH=CONFIG]50532[/ATTACH]

pure opportunism that, the ugly side of the Corrado Forum :)

Hi, and welcome to the forum! sounds like you need to drive a hard bargain, heater matrix is a fair sized job and bodywork is costly to rectify so you should be able to get a good deal based on that, it needs a really good going over though, I'd always recommend an MOT, for the sake of 50 quid it could tell you a lot about what it might cost you to get right, and if the owner refuses, well, they're trying to hide something?

bit further down the road nr J15 of M1 :) If you want a detour I have a 5 to 25 lb/ft certified torque wrench you can use if you want to be sure then :) a lot better than a big wrench that starts at 20 (ish!)

the piston moves to push the inner pad and the outer pad is pulled in by the caliper (on most conventional single piston calipers) so I reckon the caliper isn't moving on it's sliders, at least make sure the sliders are free and the piston can be wound back. Handbrake operation should be checked too just to make sure too. usually if everything is working correctly the inner pad would wear out first.

good find, do you have an accurate low range torque wrench?, pretty critical to get the sensor torque bang on or the mic won't work right.

different types of roads nr me, but the M1 seems to be mostly commercial vehicle drivers and the A45 dual carriageway, pedestrians!

when I bought a new water flange it came with two sensor holes instead of the vag original one, to fill the second hole I had to use a spare sensor, so I now have two blue sensors connected and just swap over the connector if I ever think it's suspect :lol:

don't think uk 16v had eds, only on the VR6. does it have a 357 or 535 part number on the abs unit, 535 is non-edl ah, sorry, read the edl wasn't working :) you meant it's the non-edl spec... not the bias valve then by the rear axle, feed lines should **** out fluid when you disconnect them, must be abs unit valving then.

the coolant temp sensor is on the top right of the head, near the water outlet. there should be 2 or 3 of the same small senders (black tops) which are identical but used for different systems, idle control, ecu and dash gauge. you can swap them around to see if one isn't working as it should.

I was joking about the painting and fitting, was clearly a generic heading :) I reckon you might get £5-10 off that price with a trade discount, still makes them pretty expensive compared to other suppliers who can probably do better material anyway for near that price. I bought a set the other day for less than 20 quid delivered (after just Googling corrado floor mats) and they are pretty much the same quality as the VAG ones I've had before, depends how much you want a grubby Corrado logo under your feet I guess :) I've noticed you can get rubber moulded Corrado boot liners for about 20 quid too.

Anyone know if the mk3 heater blowers use the same type of motor as the mk2/corrado?, I know the mk4 ones are a bigger motor, but I wondered if a mk3 one would work as the motors can be removed from the housing fairly easily and swapped. The mk3 housing and wiring is slightly different but I'd rather use a second hand vag motor than one of the cheapo complete pattern blowers, they aren't up to the job, one fitted to my car by a previous ower is on it's way out already.

'excludes painting and fitting' :scratch:

no, not the case, I have a 535 part number first aid box at home, no idea which age corrado it came from as I bought it at an autojumble once, it is a perfect snug fit in the armrest though and it is a grey one too.

open the bonnet :) follow the two cables from the bulkhead to the top of the box, you'll see the lever on the left/nearest the block, has a black plastic connector bolted to the shifter tower, these are notorious for breaking. Just manually move the levers/cable ends and you should be able to select all 5 gears, reverse will need someone in the car to press the lever down if you leave the cables connected.

circlip popped off the pivot under the gearstick gator probably, or the plastic connector from the cable end to the top of the gearbox selector tower starting to break up. see if you can select 1st by moving the gear selector tower levers on to pof the box by hand, no need to detach cables just try moving the levers

you need the 1992 lense and plastic surround, or the grille won't line up flush as the later lenses stick out a little further.

Have to say, the vast majority of Corrado owners I've met at all sorts of events over the years have been very friendly and more than willing to chat to new faces. It may seem like there are cliquey groups on occasion, but that's never really the case, just some people catching up on the months that have gone by and so naturally have a lot to say to each other. The one thing I have noticed is that if anything a lot of the owners that have had cars for years are more than interested in anyone new, because it brings a new car and new interest rather than just talking about the same old collection of cars :)

That's a shame, but sounds quite sensible, I totally understand, I'm maintaining 3 old cars plus just completely refitted the whole kitchen in my house, and I've got a family to spend some time with somehow. Bleeding brakes isn't exactly the shared quality time my wife thinks of :) You can always find another one (car that is!) at some point, when time/space/money etc are more suitable. Some great detailed posts on the work you have carried out on the old plum, was always good reading :)

it's more of a buzz, will be worse with little fuel in the tank, partiucularly in summer as that helps cool it. wil llast for ages probably, but if it's loud inside the car then it's giving yo a warning :)

I guess he means one wheel goes one way and the other the other, highly unlikely as the rubber bushes break down over time and there's still a bolt and sleeve from the middle of the bush to keep the wishbone in place, you'd get mad vibration and steering all over the place well before anything actually gave way totally, I'd imagine it would be like driving with two flat front tyres well before the wishbone bolt snapped. Usually the rubber of the bush splits and stays split until the next MOT if you don't notice, it will still be bonded to it's outer sleeve it's just the inner sleeve will move about a bit.

I've found over the years with this type of bearing on several cars that it is best to tighten them up more than needed to seat everything, then back off and re-tighten so you can still move the thick washer. If you don't then you risk damaging the stub axle with them too loose, but it is a good idea to check and re-tighten after a few miles too.

I guess what he means is the lifting points used on the engine are not directly underneath the beam, so the engine twists the supports and so one side slips. One answer would be to use an old seatbelt as a lifting sling under the gearbox rather than a built in lifting point, but again you need the beam central over the supported part of the engine or the engine will swing forwards or backwards. I found a simliar thing on the 4 cyl cars, but to a lesser extent, the engine twisted slightly once unbolted from the mounts making refitting the gearbox a pain, and it's even worse if that happens when you are unbolting the subframe! I did seem to have plently of room for manouver with the beam's feet on the inner wing though, and all the inner wing seemed perfectly strong enough.

I have no idea what you just said :)

You simply turn it by hand with the belt off but tbh you don't really need to do it as the fluid drains through it under gravity once topped up. It could possibly be the pressure valve inside the pump. Look at the reservoir when the engine is running and the noise starts, if fluid is wooshing through the rectangular tank when the steering is not being turned then the valve is sticking, remove the pump to rack pressure hose then unscew the hex beneath that to release the pressure valve, It's in various parts with a spring and small gauze filter, check that is clean and the recess in the pump is smooth and not scored.