davidwort

I wonder if that would fit on a corrado??

my interior lights, including boot and glovebox are rubbish, I don't think even new bulbs (that aren't half burnt out) will help much, anyone tried LED replacements? these look pretty cheap for a punt: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-42MM-INTERIOR-LIGHT-FESTOON-BULB-LED-XENON-WHITE-UK-/290604291747?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a95d96a3

:lol: these ads just appeared in the bottom ad banner for me:

Rear chrome vw badges gb would be fantastic, they really smarten up the back.

Welcome to the forum! Keep us posted with your progress and I'm sure you'll find plenty of previously posted info and helpful responses from the peeps on here :)

I'm not sure of the engine, is it the 8v variety, there's a bunch of stuff you can check to at least narrow down where the problem might be. Make sure there's no water ingress into the ECU or connectors, this can royally mess things up, if it has an egr valve (exhaust gas recirculation) then make sure it's removed and cleaned out thoroughly with carb cleaner. temp sensors on these engines can be pretty dodgy and if the vag new price is too hefty I've had good results with cheap pattern ones, the 4 pin water ecu and temp gauge sensors seem the worst. It may have a MAP sensor too which can get really gummed up from crank vent fumes, and on that subject make sure the throttle body is well cleaned of oily gunk too. I'd imagine the rad temp switch is directly connected to the ECU, so check it's connections and possibly remove and check it's switching points in hot water (can easilt do this in a pan of water on a hob with a multimeter) Some of these engines can give pretty unhelpful error codes unless it's a simple ignition or lambda fault and it takes a lot of research to track down the real source of issues.

I can't remember, but there's threads on here covering it all, just need to search, one thing though, the arms have no splines on at all when new only the spindles do, they cut grooves as you tighten them up, so you could file the grooves on the arms down (lightly) and then you'll be able to fit in exactly the position you need.

only issue is length of blade, the arms should be the same, ideally two passenger side arms IIRC.

My first reaction is similar to a couple of the responses on PH, storm in a teacup and not likely to affect our older petrol engines much, if at all. PD diesels are a slightly different affair though as they have been designed to run on a very specific grade of fuel and oil, not like the old oil-burners that can literally run on used chip fat. Actually, this reminds me a little of the old synthetic oil scares - 'don't use it in your old engine or it will destroy all the seals and leak out of places mineral oil can't, rubbish basically. ---------- Post added at 10:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 AM ---------- if you are really that worried: http://www.frost.co.uk/ethomix-additive.html

Both and neither, 4 cylinder cars share more mk2 golf bits and VR6's share more mk3 (GTI) parts, but both use corrado specific parts too. As with most VW's there's a lot of part sharing and evolution of parts across models, so some bits get shared with more unlikely vehicles, like the later polos. The 'fast' steering rack for instance, was used up to about 2001 on the sporty Ibiza's.

SMX-S or vag fully synthetic.

think so, done 2 metallic wings that have come out well and I have black paint for a least the doors and bumper on the valver and that's far easier as it's gloss black that can be cut back, might have to wait until it gets a little warmer though :)

Respray time for the 16v I think, and a few smaller jobs like a schrick cam I've aquired for the 8v and possibly p&p the head.

As the title really, what's everyone planning or wanting to do to their cars in the new year ahead?

No the three small black sensors on the side of the head are all identical, they just feed separate systems, so you can swap round the wires to check them, the rad has a temp switch in the bottom of it, two circuits/temps for the two motor speeds on the fan, there's also a small temp switch on the front left cam cover nut that causes rad fan run-on when the weather is really hot, stops the fuel lines getting too hot when you turn the engine off. It's worth pulling out the injectors and doing a spray pattern test, even if it drives fine the pattern may be poor at low throttle and that won't help economy.

Sounds like you need a good going over the engine, its usually the bypass valves and not the matrix that restricts the hot water flow but you can check that out by removing the hoses and just running water from a hosepipe through it. The small sensors on the rhs of the head can be checked, 3 the same and feed water temp to gauge, ecu and idle control unit, swap round the connectors if you suspect one. There's also a larger thermotimeswitch that controls enrichment on a cold engine. Flow through the main rad should be checked too, you may have a stat that is never shutting fully, how long does it take to get to full oil and water temp?

make one, it will probably look and fit better :lol: the VW one's were a bit ropey TBH, very cheap plastic and not really the same as the rest of the dash

In my experience 100W+ mains just generate more heat than the 150% etc (claimed light output increase) bulbs, like the Phillips Extreme, Halfords etc. with a relayed loom you'll get more volts at the bulb anyway so even 55/60W standard bulbs will be brighter and I found Phillips extreme 55/60w as bright as 80/100W (illegal) bulbs. Oh, and 80/100W or higher will damge your reflectors quicker too from the extra heat.

If you want something cheap but effective then I fitted one of these for a fiver deleivered: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-LED-Car-Third-3rd-Brake-Stop-Rear-Tail-Light-Lamp-/300552827177?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45fa583129 pretty slim and you can't see it's body in the rear view mirror when mounted at the very top of the screen it can be angled how you like and seems very effective

does look a nicely made system, be interesting to see what it sounds like after it's been on a while

no, it's a combination of two units on the supply and return hoses in the engine bay just before the bulkhead connection to the matrix, it has a small pressure relief pipe connecting the two, one unit is metal the other black plastic, not needed on cars after about 1992 as the matrix was strengthened. They won't stop a matrix rotting through though (early or late), so if the car is an early one it's worth changing the matrix anyway. Oh, and I remember when I had the by-pass valves fitted new from a VW dealer, they restrict the flow of water at all times and you won't get the interior quite as hot as without them.

if you don't want to use a second hand one (can't see that would be a problem though) I reckon a fishtank air supply hose joiner/splitter would be basically the same, look on e-bay or your local pets-at-home :lol: I say this because I have fish and those bits look so similar :) you must be able to get VW or generic vac hose connectors though, so many cars use them fish airline part: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Angels-Aquatics-Pet-Supplies-Aquarium/dp/B003NPW8S6/ref=pd_rhf_gw_shvl29

Err, because it makes sense, it's not like the ccgb is trying to sell you fake trainers.

does he not combine postage rates for 2 then :)

strangely, (or not) my passat haynes manual (for PB and 2E engines) 1.8 and 2L 8v, gives 23Nm and 17lb ft ??? I would have thought the sensor is the same as a G60??? I'll check the etka no. in a bit. yeah, the old 8v corrado is going very well, it's comfy (on standard tyres and suspension) and the 2L engine is more than adequate, in fact it's really nice to drive on my commute now and I'm still getting 40mpg+ even now the weather is colder. My wife prefers driving it to the 1.6 golf we have as she says it has much more go! well, I suppose everything is relative :) I'm going to keep it for ages now I reckon, especially now I've got a wide angle driver's door mirror lol. ---------- Post added at 10:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:59 AM ---------- PB, EZ, GX etc 1.8 engines do indeed have the same sensor as the G60: 054 905 377A but the 2E engine like mine has a different number: 037 905 377A, not sure why, perhaps it's the wiring layout or the later digifant system? and perhaps why haynes have a different torque value??