davidwort

crank pics [ATTACH=CONFIG]50143[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50144[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50145[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50146[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50147[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50148[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50149[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50150[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50151[/ATTACH]

Fitted the driver's side one, it's not bad, no fitting plate with mine so rather than stick it to the old glass I removed the original VW backing plate, well, smashed and peeled off the old glass which is very well stuck!, and used that for the new glass. It's a little flat on the top and bottom edges, so not exactly the right shape, but the blindspot reduction is excellent, when a car is passing on the M-way by the time a car is out of the side mirror now I can see it next to me on the road. Definitely worth a tenner. I also removed the trim tape stuck to the back of the glass and used some even thinner stuff I had, the fit into the VW frame is pretty good, probably better if I used an adhesive rather than 1mm thick trim tape but I was in a rush to use the car for the commute and to try it out. Only other issue was the position of the heater contact pins and the VW backing plate, I had to cut two small holes in the plastic for them to poke through, but that worked fine, no problem with pin position or length of wires. [ATTACH=CONFIG]50113[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50114[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50115[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50116[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50117[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50118[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50119[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50120[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]50121[/ATTACH]

track rod nuts can usually be freed with a blowtorch, new rods usually come complete with ends if you do need to replace them, I'd do the steering rack boots too while you're in there.

I have a TSR balanced 9A crank only done about 10K, bloody heavy though.

just ordered a driver's side one after reading this, cheers for the pics. mine is corroded around the edges and I think the element is shot anyway and I hate those stick on wide angle viewer things, especially when the corrado mirror area is so small. I'd even contemplated getting a larger mirror with the outer wide angle part, cut down to size for the corrado, that sort of modern glass makes motorway driving so much easier and safer. Hope this improves things, it's either this or caravan mirror extenders :lol:

Yeah, vw dealer can get the separate part no. from the mk2 diagram on their parts system, couple of quid.

Same as mine, they do tighten up and they need to or it will flop one side or the other. It allows for the slope on the inner wings for different vehicles so you can keep the actual support chain/lifter level in the two bars of the beam.

Do a search on the web, last time I was looking there were a number of hydraulic specialists that do recon racks of just about any spec, most will have a surcharge refundable with your old rack and these places supply the likes of GSF who then just add on their margin. They all seem to offer a 1yr warranty and despite the scare stories I've only ever spoken to people who've found them perfectly OK. The steering column is another separate matter, the parts were only ever available from volkswagen and the adjustable columns fitted to most of the corrados do eventually get quite bad play in them, I think the only option now is to try to track down an early 16v or late 8v that had the fixed position steering columns, but there were never many around anyway, probably only a few hundred in total max.

Are the cam pulleys the same? YES (well interchangeable, the factory 2L is slightly different design with matching stud) Are the headgaskets the same? YES, if bottom end is a 2L then gasket is the same regardless of the head you fit (1.8 is smaller bore so smaller HG) I only currently have the manifold/throttle body from the 2.0 - Would I be better sourcing KR items? I'd keep a 42mm inlet manifold claw on it as it helps with low end torque a little, throttle body would normally be specific to the fuelling/ignition system, i.e. the factory 2L (9A engine) has switches for throttle position that the KR doesn't, but if you are running plain old K-jet from the 1.8 on the 2L block it doesn't matter, just continue to use the KR throttle body. Is it good practice to change the waterpump at the same time or not relevant? Cam belt doesn't run around water pump like a lot of more modern engines, so no need to change it unless it's really old as they're fairly cheap and you'll be draining the coolant anyway.

mmmmmmm! I like the look of that, what's the story???

like I said, diode plate on the alt is probably knackered, inside the alternator is a set of thumping great diodes configured to rectify the voltage to DC, if one or more of the diodes that makes up the set is faulty you won't get the right voltage from the alternator and all sorts of wierd things will happen, sometimes even the alternator discharging the battery over night. You can sometimes even feel that the alternator is warm in the morning before the engine has run suggesting draining of the battery. Also, have you tested the battery with a heavy drain discharge thingy, quick fit type place should do this free for you, just to make sure the battery is healthy.

new dash fixed it on my old polo, guess it was actually just the temperature gauge module though as the fuel gauge was fine so it couldn't have been the voltage regulator on the dash circuit board or that would have gone crazy too.

With those motor mounts you can drill the rivets right out and then cut a small slot in the side of the rubber with a sharp stanley blade, pop the old end of the rivet out of the slot and super-glue the rubber back up, worked a treat on several I've done and the rubber hasn't split again. Have to say I prefer bolts to rivets though, why they riveted the originals I don't know, so cheap and nasty and it's not as if they rushed building the corrados anyway.

yeah, the glass is a tapered shape so the C pillar edge opens up a gap, perfectly normal there.

great read :) much as people moan about mk4's I reckon they are very easy cars to live with day in day out, I'd do something with the headlights if you are driving it throughout the winter though, they are pretty dire (spot the VW trait) but as they have separate main and dip bulbs I'd at least swap the dips for phillips extreme or something similar, this benefits main beam too as the dip beam bulb stays on with the mains.

wow, that's pretty neat, from a bodyshop repair manual I guess, wouldn't mind a copy myself as I have a corrado with a somewhat misaligned rear beam.

also sounds like the diode rectifiers playing up, which effectively means the alternator is scrap, worth a stab with a new brush pack though.

yep, that will do fine, as long as the stud matches the 1.8 tensionner, might be worth getting a new one of those too anyway.

an old classic (quite appropriate!) Unchained Melody - The Righteous Brothers ...and the 8v: WET WET WET :(

There are two different tensionners and studs, be careful as the 2l one isn't torqued as high, they are interchangeable though so a 1.8 tensionner and it's matching stud will be fine on the 2l.

I think Ryan just meant a cambelt kit, i.e. belts and tensionners required to renew the timing gear, more complex on most 16v engines than the kr/9a/abf, you often need 2 tension rollers and a second inter cam belt. The thought of repairing a toothed timing belt makes the mind boggle, super glue and a bit of hand stitching perhaps LOL

Cable drive speedos were used up to early 1991, all were electronic sender on gearbox after then.

Eh? Not sure what you mean, so you need a timing belt and tensionner for the 9a, there's nothing else???

Very fine thread, more of a bolt than a screw thread, the ones holding the heater controls to the dash or the cover plastic where the rear seatbelts come out of the parcel shelf support are the same iirc

that's bizarre, not quite sure how removing one of those small covers is going to keep temps down, is it 'left' as in nearside?, i.e. where the intercooler is, rather than obstructing flow to the radiator, the G60 intercooler always looked a bit small and awkwardly wedged in the corner. I guess it was cheaper to remove some grille section than supply and fit a FMIC as a recall :)