davidwort

It should be bonded with windscreen sealer/adhesive, do you have any pics?

Yep, the early 16v cars even have red ATF fluid reservoir caps even though a green version is available, all I can think is karmann simply used all the mk2 pas bits. Green hydraulic fluid is definitely the stuff for even these early cars though.

may well have a play as my 8v engine is pretty tappety and I've got a shrick cam lying about I wanted to try too :) I'd rather play with cleaning tappets individually than putting cleaner through the whole engine, I've got visions of it springing leaks all over the place :lol: Apparently if you are quick enough stripping a cam cover off and getting the cam out from a warm engine you can check tappets by seeing which have drained down, although this might be for checking fully collapsed ones rather than just slightly sticky ones?

do they actually wear at all then? I've seen talk of stripping these on Club GTI, I replaced all 16 on my valver (ouch) when having the head ported and wondered if it was one of those things like replacing wishbone bushes, where most garages haven't got the time to piddle around and just change the whole wishbone as the labour would be more than the parts.

Could just be the pressure valve in the pump, does it make noise when turned by hand with the belt off? Replacement wise just make sure the hub spacing is right, late ones, including some 1.8's have the longer hub spacing and so pulley sticks out further. You can remove the valve, filter and spring from the pump body after removing the pressure hose that goes to the rack, not the fill hose, it screws undone, then check the little gauze filter inside and feel for any scoring inside the drilling in the pump body. Of course if the bearing is shot you will have to get a new/recon one. Or risk 2nd hand.

use the search, a few seconds reading and I found this and other threads: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?48044-Uprated-bulbs-Phillps-Vs-Osram-opinions-required.&highlight=headlight+bulbs

Cool mod to have, but doesn't cruise tend to worsen economy? It seemed to do that when we fitted it to the 1.8T, perhaps because you lose fuel shutoff that you get when completely backing off the throttle. Does a diesel do that anyway???

surprises me it's obselete, those clamps were used on so many VW's, did you lose the old one then? or just want a shiny new one :) should be able to find them second hand pretty easily as they are such a common part.

Looks great then, shame they didn't fit a lights on - ignition off buzzer circuit, but I guess that would have required an extra pin/feed from the driver's door.

Yep, mk3 gti, vr etc have the same 'quick' rack but with the wide track track rods which you can swap. Ibiza and mk2 16v have the same rack too.

Don't agree with that, 20 years may be pushing it a bit, but changing tyres just because they are 5 years old is a bit excessive, besides, yours spend most of their time out of sunlight in the garage :)

yeah, no full cover on the corrado, but that's because there are no holes in the bonnet (like a mk2) so it doesn't need one, a few people have fitted passat wiper motor covers just to make it look a little more tidy or cut a mk2 scuttle cover to fit the full length

fair do-s, I'm sure the valves do leak a little, like you say, old alloys are also a culprit, I was just puzzled that you think that the inner valve rubber seal on the valve itself is going to be any worse than an o-ring on the cap (probably only really there to keep dirt and water out of the valve) you could always fill the top of your valves with silicone sealant :)

I ordered some last week (TPS), they mis-quoted 18 quid each and then after delivery tried to invoice £45 plus vat trade EACH Early passat '357' one-peice mounts.

just fitted a new rear engine mount on the 8v, smooth or what? apart from being squashed 1/2 cm lower than the new one (off the car) there didn't seem much difference in movement between the two, but on the road all of the vibration and judder I had under hard acceleration (well as hard as you can get in an 8v) has gone, and it just feels smoother and quieter all the time, very glad I changed that :)

eh? you rely on your valve dust caps to keep the pressure in :lol:

no, I meant £100 including vat for a pair :lol: possibly as bit cheaper if you can get a trade price from TPS etc, but judging by the £50 EACH they want for front top mounts now they aren't going to be peanuts. I suppose in the grand scheme of things it's only about the same as a tank full of fuel these days though. The main thing about the rear bushes is the amount of work involved, not the price of the bushes anyway.

Just cheap and nasty metal I guess, black plastic has always worked fine for me :)

Use the forum search! This has to be up there with the most asked corrado questions :)As for current vag price I'd imagine around 100 quid for both from vag by now.

have a quick google for compression test, plenty of info, it just needs a little drop of oil to help seal the piston rings, if you see a difference from dry and wet on that cylinder then it would point to rings and not valves/seats. this might make valve lapping a bit easier, need a low speed drill though! http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0012MCW06/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=103612307&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000UZ02EO&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=1GY4M2QA9JQQZMM48CJX apologies for your post delete, not sure what happened there, there was a dupicate post showing and then both went???

Alex, was the compression test done with the engine warm and was a 'wet' test done with a little oil squirted into the cylinders to compare to a dry test, this might help indicate if the problem was piston ring related or valve related on the 'low' cylinder, before you start ripping the head off.

if it's that plastic connector that the round cable end just clips onto then just buy a new one from VW, they always crack and virtually all second hand ones will be starting to go, vw have had a go at slightly redesigning the part about 3 times, not expensive either, few quid. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48325[/ATTACH] left hand cable in this pic (not the one disconnected)

check the selector and shift cable ends on top of the gearbox are secure and nothing is sheared/broken, also pull up the gear lever gaitor and check everything looks well under there, particularly that there is a circlip on the side of the main horizontal pivot (or the side to side movement of gearlever won't have proper leverage on the cable). If that all checks out OK then worst case a second hand box should be available fairly cheaply, you don't say which engine, VR6 boxes are probably harder to come by as more vehicles share the 4 cylinder gearbox housing and ratios.

Depends on the individual engine and the setup of the metering head and warm up regulator for fuelling. On some you can get away with a fair bit more base advance, even for regular unleaded. It's best optimised on a rolling road though, to make sure you're not getting slight pinking you can't hear and to get the best balance of power and torque. As a guide, if you advance a degree at idle and it still doesn't pink when hot up a hill in 5th with your foot to the floor at say 2,500 revs you should be fine. Mine is set up (on rolling road) to 8.5 degrees, but has fuelling to match and has a gasflowed and polished head which helps avoid pinking, it's a KR head but on a slightly higher compression 2L bottom end.

Does it have an aftermarket exhaust and/or manifold/downpipe? that can affect bottom end, they are heavy cars for the 1.8 engine though. One other thing is the injectors, they can deliver plenty of fuel at high revs but a poor spray pattern on old ones at lower revs can affect performance.