davidwort

yes, the regulator is one of those jobs we hate doing, you need to drillout the rivets and really replace the rubber mountings, it may be that the motor is stalled, try taking off the card and membrane and tapping it with a hammer when attempting to operate.

I'd get your injectors tested (pull from head and just spray into bottles to view the spray pattern), poor atomization is always made worse when cold and old kjet injectors can have pretty rubbish spray patterns at idle once over 100K miles

it's not a heat shield it's there to make the bumper skin more rigid where it's not supported by the bumper iron - despite the fact VW label it as a 'heat protection plate' - I'm not sure what they thought is was protecting the bumper from ???

you can, I have, but if you want to change it further you should be able to edit the first post and then 'Go Advanced' to change the title, I'm hoping it's not just MODS that can do that.

there doesn't seem to be any info at all on the merchandise page, it's just empty???

OK, we know what that means then :lol: looking at the pic it seems to have later VW plastic hose connectors so it's not a mk2/3/corrado fit

There's a really good quality dense rubber underlay available from Amazon for about 45 quid, similar stuff I bet, a great big roll about 20 sq m iirc, with soundproofing you need mass and that stuff is great and great value too

paint looks fantastic, big investment but well worth having done and done properly on the bolts, don't use stainless for any high-tensile bolts will you, like engine and subframe mountings

well judging by ebay a barn find is a sh1tty 1988 ford escort sat rotting on someone's drive

first one is the corrado type

I've had Konis for years on a valver too, no complaints although on the lighter 4cyl cars I think even on the softest setting they're fairly stiff for road use (and I have the standard ones I think there's a stiffer version too) mine are on eibach springs which again I'd say are on the firm side, but once you get on a track it's altogether different so TA's are pretty much a must, you certainly don't want off-the-car adjustable dampers (of which Koni do do a rear golf/corrado shock of that design) my eibach springs leave the front just about level on the wishbones and I actually had extra grooves machined in the rear dampers so I could adjust the spring baseplate a little higher to get the right front/rear balance (koni rear dampers, but not the fronts, tend to have 3 - 6 baseplate adjustment grooves)

top adjustable konis might come in handy then :)

no, don't use red ATF fluid, the cap is just an old mk2 golf part, no idea why VW used it on the early cars. all corrados use VW's own hydraulic fluid or green LHM compatable hydraulic fluid as a good replacement (I've used this for years)

I think you might be trying to remove discoloured lacquer :( the turret wax came off fine with white-spirit for me and panel wipe to get it spotless and grease free

If you want to fully maintain handling just look at the rear beam and the front wishbones on level ground, ideally they should both be down by several cm at the hub connection point as they repeatedly bounce up from rest as you drive over small bumps, you don't want them to often go above level on normal B roads (slightly bumpy) surfaces. It depends on the original springs and suspension as to how far you can lower as some cars have slightly different setups from the factory, although any original parts will be very saggy by now. I personally wouldn't go low on a corrado, after having driven an 8v on newish standard springs and dampers with new bushings it's so much better to drive than lowered and stiffer which I've done in many guises too.

Seem to be a lot of the spring clamps on eBay pretty cheap, anyone know how much they are from vw these days?

And the one bit of the lander that broke...

I'd get the idle CO checked, might need adjusting a bit after the cams

I think I'm going to have to heavily edit and lock this thread!

wire the motor temporarily directly to the battery, then you'll see if voltage drop is a problem (or get yourself a multimeter), pretty sure it will be the motor though

just to clarify, I believe this should read: early G60/16v (pre 1992) late G60/16v, 8v & VR6 (post 1992) as this is when the bonnet changes, not with engine/model.

there's not much that can be done, if you really want an improvement then either look out for some very late mk3 16v/VR parts or go the whole hog and fit a mk4 gearlever mech and shift tower 100 times better some lever and gearbox shift tower info in here: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=37728&highlight=gear+shift

down to $77 for brent crude and $74 for west texas crude at this rate Russia will be bankrupt, which probably means they'll start WW3, they seem to be going that way.

:lol: yep, you can check in my forum profile if you don't believe me!

Next door to my office is the Science faculty building of the Open University where a number of academics and researchers have been working for years on projects like Philae/Rosetta and Beagle2, there's a really good display of meteorite parts, lander models and so on I thought someone might be interested to see, half scale this model we think apologies for our ugly mugs in the picture Rosetta Philae lander half scale by David0011, on Flickr one of the failed anchoring harpoons: Rosetta Philae lander half scale by David0011, on Flickr