LowG

Thanks for the coments guys, I have some other good vids but I cant really post them :oops: . I think the car is at around 36% potential of what the setup should make, using 99ron pump fuel there is still alot of room to stretch. The timing map and air fuel values are pretty conservative right now so more power can be found there with same boost.

Hi guys, I was playing around with mate of mine who has a WRX pushing 345bhp, I thought I would take some videos so you guys can see. I was impressed to see how she matched up as I'm only running low boost at the moment. We were level on both videos from rolling start at second gear, camera was in the wrx. All done under the limit of course :wink: More boost and more power to come :) http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=4807350466080840467 http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=3828602422186976860

What does the turbo system consist of? Looks like you still have the Kjet system in there? Keep it and make it faster ;).

Would you be happy with only 240bhp that an NA engine would give you which in itself sounds like an optimistic number? By boosting your current motor does not mean its life will become shorter if the engine is setup and tuned properly. If I was to do it I would run a spacer on the engine and fit a turbo in there and with around 1 bar boost you will have a very quick and efficient engine that will hand most cars on the street. Then later on once you had your fun and want more build your block and turn the boost to the sky 8)

What browser are you using? I can open it from here via internet explorer, if not let me know I will have a word with my web designer. thanks

What manifold is the other one you are using? You could add a external flange onto it? If I were you i would make a downpipe from scratch, get some guy there in Roma to weld it up for you, maybe will be easier than having to redo the cossie one? Yea i can hook you up with those parts no problem, the prices are all on the website but I will offer a discount to Corrado Forum members :wink: . I'll shoot you a pm with the details. Thanks for the kinds words. regards Miguel

Run the wastegate on the atmosphere, if you are only using a 2.5" downpipe you want as little backpressure as possible, plus it sounds mean as hell. Just make sure you route the wg dump tube so the gas dont get blown on the engine bay. I wouldnt use the S2 mani personally, it wouldnt be much more expensive to use a cast 16v turbo manifold or a log style one, that way you can fit a wide range of turbos on it. Also they come with external wg port for a tial/greeddy 38mm universal flange. From personal experience its always better to do it right from go instead of going back spending more but I guess you have your own power level in mind and it might work out for you. Beware of engine movement with the turbo being so close to the firewall, other than that 16v turbo is hot 8)

Maybe you have fitted a non thermostat sandwich plate on there? Its best to use sandwich one, saves on warmup time and bit of fuel also. For summer is ok but now in winter it can get too cool, same happened to me when I ran a straight plate.

No videos yet but I should be at Santa Pod very soon to see what she will run on the current settings :) . At that point I will get some videos.

Man those rims are wide, i bet you watch them curbs. Looking good, only if we could make use of the rear wheels with the right tyres on that rim :cry:

updated pics at e38 and fresh paint.

Thanks, we are using G60 box for now. We suspect the gearbox to give up on higher boost but the clutch went first. Having a big turbo is like having traction control in fwd cars as the slight lag gets you of the line better and delivers the power where you can use it better. On higher boost the gearbox wont take the abuse, uprated gears 1-4 its what we might do or switch to another gearbox possibly same with driveshafts. It's quite enjoyable to drive, quiet and soft when you want and an animal when you rip it up, road slicks work well on dry.

It's a 16v turbo. I wanted to build something different from your everyday engine. G-tuned built 2.1l uprated pistons/conrods/bolts/balanced crank. G-tuned ported head and uprated cams, valve work. G-tuned tubular/equal length turbo manifold 316ss. G-tuned intake manifold. G-tuned custom intercooler and piping. Custom 3" stainless downpipe and exhaust system built by us. Full standalone engine management. GT35R ball bearing turbocharger with external wastegate, 4" custom turbo intake and loads more....................... Almost all bits on the engine had to be fabricated in house. Turbo spool is excellent considering the size of the turbo. Have been running baby boost, its insane when the turbo wakes up. The G60 badge fools many people . Not been on the dyno to see what she is pushing but from some measurements via accelerometer we are seeing in excess of 300whp on low boost. The VR clutch I had in there was slipping badly in no time but we are sorting it out. Should make it to E38 if I can get her out of body shop in time, but once we go Santa Pod its where the real fun begins. Edited pics above.

Its a bit pointless to do a 16v turbo conversion if all you are looking for is 180hp. A supercharged 16v would be a wiser choice in my opinion. Find someone breaking a G60 and get charger and the ecu and set that up on yours. I would lower the compression to around 9:1 and run an intercooler, give Bilal (SNS) a shout and he'll sort you out with the chip. Turbo lag is cool 8) with the new ball bearing turbos you can run a huge turbo in a smaller engine.

Have a 16v flywheel here, it has a cast number 03710527c but I am told by vw that that number is not the correct number as most likley is the old cast number when the flywheel was produced. Its 228mm diameter. Anyone with etka can get me the real part number for this part, it off a 16v KR engine 02a gearbox. thanks.

Recenlty i put the car together after scraping my last shell. New shell, still needs to go bodyshop for front bumper and bonnet respray. For those who were at Ace Cafe last night might have seen it. Its forced induction of course and should provide an adrenaline rush at the strip. :) Still got loads left to do but so far so good.

Nice car, saw this last night at Ace Cafe and I was like hell yeah. It was nice to hear the lysholm charger again :) . Good work mate.

yep right wire guys, its was butchered so bad due to heat there wasnt any colour left to it, the spade conector was missing too. Now works fine, cheers fellas 8)

I was after the 1.8, the bentley manual dosent seem to have any info on 16v only G60 and VR6 :roll:

can someone with a valver 1.8 or 2L have a look or if they know of top of their head the wire colour for the coolant temp sensor that send signal to cluster, it goes on the side of the head, if someone can snap a pic of their valver side of head with all the sensors and wire colour would be of great help. thanks guys

Terrible news Jeff, its such a hard situation to lose someone in the family. Fighting cancer its a very painful way to pass away. You have to think positive and enjoy life a bit more. Hope you and your family are doing well and good luck to ya!!

A/W setups are are very efficient if setup right, most people that do it themselfs mismatch parts, find no gains and end up selling them and going A/A. If you was to build a drag car I would go A/W and use lots of ice to cool it. A/A is hard to beat for daily driving and reliability, the alky injection kits also work well with A/A cooler. A few people have found the pwr cores to be not so efficient but they do have a good flow.

The boost shown on the gauge will be dependent on the pulley size, boost leaks if you have any and the head (ie ported, cams or stock) and the piping. Also a bigger intercooler will tend to rob some flow but will give you better gains.

Turbo it :wink: If you want to get good reliable power you need to do it right, I say spend a bit more on quality parts and save headache later on. Last time I checked a 16v T is very unique in my book. If you need any info on how to just shoot me a pm. cheers

Recently changed the G60 wiring loom and fuse box as my fuse box had a melted terminal. Now im having problems on getting the instrument dials to function. The speedo, fuel gauge and MFA function dont work, there is power to the cluster (its a digital one) time and all shows, MFA dosent seem to function. I have checked the wiring but havent found anything out of place. By the way I removed the G60 ecu and wiring loom and installed a 16v one. I have no manual at the moment and cant think of what it could be hmmmm.