Krazee

Stock for stock, as people have mentioned, the VR6 is quicker that the G60. Also I believe the G60 suspension was stiffer than the VR6 giving it better handling in theory. And yeah, that small weight difference doesnt make as much difference as some make it out to be. As far as tuning goes, the VR6 win Naturally Aspirated form starts to approach its limits at 225whp ~ 265bhp. This is going with a 3.1L bore or even a 3.2L stroker kit, appropriate cams, chip, manifold, etc,etc. This is strictly what I have been told, but given the numbers of certain mods, it seems to be about right. The G60, in 1.8L G-Charger form starts to reach its max at around 235flywheel HP. This includes stage 4 charger, port/polish head, TB, etc, etc. Over here, the 2 highest output 1.8L G60s I know of 225flywhee HP/230 flywheel TQ with the G-charger and then another Lysholm charger one with similar hp numbers but 244flywheel TQ. I can get dyno charts of both of these cars if someone wants proof. One benefit the G60s have over the VR6, if you want to look at it that way, is thier low-end torque. With either of those built G60s, spinning tires first through second is easy. In city driving, one could argue that the G60 is "better" and then at the same time one could argue that the VR6 is "better". It comes down to preference. One thing that I feel is definitely needed on a G60, especially a built one, is VR6 gearing. 20mph in first doesnt cut it for me, neither does needing to shift into 3rd to hit 60mph. A worked G60 with VR6 gearing would be a very stong, fast, quick car.

People have been talking about this over in the US as well. Oddly enough there was a red R32 rolled here in the US. Dealer test driver rolled it. Oh and here, dont about over there, all R32s have to be driven up to 50miles before sale, to test everything :?: Anyway, so yeah it was rolled......perfect right off, 50 miles. Problem is, that prolly went back to VW to see if there was a "problem" (yeah right). Anyway, over here, someone mentioned the R32 motor being too tall to fit into the corrado. Any truth to that? is it that different from the standard 24v VR6 in terms of size? One thing I did read about though, thinking it was in the reader's rides section of PVW, was a B4 passat with the full R32 and DSG tranny install. Now thats a swap Id love to do, considering my mom has a B4 Sedan/Saloon. How much heavier is the 24v motor compared to the 12v?

Yeah, thats a pic of when when I first got my car. Dont worry, its different now :mrgreen: Recaro SRDs, Schroth Rallye 3 harnesses, got rid of the stuff hanging from the mirror.

I would recommend the VR gear box and Quaife. VR box is not a direct bolt in for the G60, something about bell-housings. I recommend the VR gear box because it has longer gears, something I think a built G60 needs because of how much low-end torque it has. Stock G60 gets you to 20mph in 1st while the VR is 40mph in first. Also, you have to shift into 3rd to hit 60 in a G60, VR you hit it in 2nd. A VR box into a G60 would be my first mod if I had a G60.

Maybe those pics will give you an idea of the bars relation to the stock door pockets. Think the Audioscape ones will fit?

I have this, though the internal amp blew and I havent gotten it fixed yet. Anyway.... When it was working, I found it amazing. The rest of my system is/was totally stock save for a Nakamichi CD-45z headunit and this thing thumped. Bass was nice and tight with hardly any distortion. I dont see how a Corrado could need anymore than this item so something like it (10" sub/200watt amp) If anything, adding an additional amp for aftermarket speakers. First I had it mounted upright on a false wood floor but I didnt measure correctly and couldnt access my spare. So out that came and then I screw it directly into the back of the rear passenger seat. If you didnt know, theres a metal plate behind the card-board type stuff. Secured fine and sounded just as good to my novice ears (idealy you dont want it aiming at the floor, i think). I bought it for 450usd = 225BPS back when it first came out, but now prices here are down to 250usd = 125bps.

I wouldnt have any problems passing any sort of test if I had the knee bar removed, but its too much of a pain. Its one long bar that runs the width of the car. So even if I pulled it to put in trays, id also have to swap in a German/Canadian dash because of the cutouts on the side of it (either side of center console). They do, however help in collisions, protecting ure knees i guess. Though now I have harnesses installed so that may not be an issue any more. Who knows, I might just do it :) dubster82, do you pics with the door closed? Id just like to get a better idea of how close they get to your trays.[/b]

Now that i joined this forum, im going to have to brush up Farenheit to Celcius conversions. I dont know about over there, but here we can get low-temp fan-switches and low-temp thermostats. I got both along with a new radiator, samcos and a coolant flush and im running in the 210-230F range (230-240F when hot or romping on it, 210-215F under normal driving). Before hand, I hit 300F a couple times :shock: I highly recommend getting the two switches as it is cheaper than a oil-cooler. Of course this doesnt achieve the same effect, so call it a pacifier until you can afford an oil cooler. Both of the items should run you about 10-15BPS plus shipping. Another thing that can happen is that our clusters can burn out. This happened to a friend of mine and to my car as well. If I turned the headlights on, the oil temp in the MFA would shoot up to 300F. Turn it off and if came back to 220F. My friend told me to check the plug at the back of the cluster for any scorching, but I procrastinated and now its back to normal. See if that whole headlight thing makes a difference....best to do it while sitting, set the MFA to oil temp then switch on ure headlights and see what happens.

Anyone have pics of these installed in a Corrado? I want to see if I have enough clearance with the US kneebars.

Nice looking whip for sure. So where can I get these forum stickers?

Yeesh thats pricey...thats like 100usd. They sell for 40usd (£20) over here. Could get some for people if you want. Shipping would be like another £10-15.....some thats like £35.

Can someone explain to me the difference between our stock wipers and Lupo jobbies?

If you combine the Schrick (can I know why you guys call is a Shrek?) with 268 or 274 cams then the car retains is stock-like power band....swift kick to the ass at 4000 but then pulling all the way to redline. The cams make up for the Shcrick's lack of flow at high RPMs. Cams are supposed to give something like 15hp, big-bore TB is more for throttle response than anything else. Chip, cams, and exhaust will go a long way and Im sure you'ld have fun with it.

when you guys say "bhp", are you refering to the flywheel horsepower or wheel horsepower?

Yeah, those side lights on the bumper are standard here in the US. The dont operate as turn-signals however, they just turn on with the headlights. More noticeable at night I suppose. Here in the US, we want to ditch them, but apparently you folks want them? :D Wierd how that all happens :lol:

for 17s, I have always been recommended 215/40/17. On my Moda/Radius R6s I had 205/40 and would have gone 215/40 had I not sold them.

Here in the US, carbon bonnets are all the rage. Unfortunately, only one company has proven themselves to have the best quality hoods. The weaves are second to none, here at least, and they advertise that hood pins are not needed (important for those of us interested in the sleeper look). Fiber Images is that company. I dont know if you can order directly from Fiber Images, but as someone posted Bahn Brenner Motorsport sells them and on thier website they state that hood pins are not needed. The hood is 650usd, add possibly 100usd for shipping thats 750usd. Since the BPS/USD ratios is 2:1 in your favor that comes out to roughly 375 pound-sterling for you cats. I think thats a great deal. BBM has a history of very good customer service, so I would feel very much at ease if ordering from them.

Yeah, sleeper from the outside. I dont mind having a nicely build and presentable motor but from the outside, I dont want people to know what Im running. About the G60 IC, do you have an pics of it? Curious how the inlet and outlet is positioned. Go to know about these VAG items.....ya learn something new every day. EDIT: Couple other questions. Whats the concensus on air-water ICs? can they be run daily? better not to?

THEN:

wow, that TAR-OX kit looks amazing. 6 pots under the stock speedlines is exactly what I have been looking for. Keep in mind, however, that your braking ability is still limited by the size of our mastercylinder. A nice mod would be to also install a mk3 golf/jetta master cylinder, though it require modification to the pedal cluster. http://www.bahnbrenner.com sells an 11" rear brake kit that basically upgrades us to mk4 aluminum calipers and 11" rotors. Normally though, I think stock rears are fine, though with large wheels they disappear. I would recommend HAWK pads to everyone....I have them on my car and the braking ability is amazing and they generate virtually no dust.

LowG: I have contemplated the install of an air-water, but I have also been told that the money put into it would be not needed for the following reason: air-water on a daily driver wont be able to stay cold enough and that its more effort than its worth. Im not to familiar with air-water and thier benefits/problems, etc,etc. Another thing, because of personal preference, I dont want to install a front mount. Im one for the whole sleeper concept. For this reason I initially thought air-water. What I had in mind was a custom air-water in the spot where the air-box normally goes, leading into a tubular manifold. On the opposite side, the water tank where the battery normally goes. Battery would then be in the trunk/boot. This is the "conventional" IC install I would be going for, though in a VR of course and then on the left side feeding a tubular manifold. A hood scoop of sorts would feed it air:

Niko, this has nothing to do with Kris from Vortex. Kinetic Motorsports is one of two companies formed when Momentum Motorsports split into Momentum Car Parts and Kinetic Motorsports. Anyway. I agree with the comments Phat and Kev made, I have similar reservations about not running an IC. A comment, though, about the Vortech supercharger kits. Those one can run without issue without an IC. Since the power delivery is linear, not a sudden influx of boost at a given time, then one really doesnt have to worry about the engine detonating. In addition, the Vortech chargers replace the stock air-box and route their intake where the carbon canister normally resides, so in effect creating a Cold-Air intake of sorts. Another Q, is a tubular manifold a good idea with 6 psi?

Hello. Dont know how many of you frequent the 12v VR6 forum on http://www.VWVortex.com, but Kinetic Motorsport's latest VR6-Turbo kit has been the talk of the town. 6psi, non-IC, $2300USD, and 240whp/245wtq. For the money it seems to be an incredible deal, and its something I am looking into, but a couple things have come up. more info here: http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/projects/kineticvr6tkit.html At 6psi, would the installation of an Intercooler be a good idea, not worth it, do less harm than good, more harm than good, etc, etc? One of my friends made a valid point. While the dyno run shows the Golf putting down a smooth power band, when you run on the street, boost comes on quicker, since ure dipping in and out of traffic, giving it gas on the highway, etc, etc. And since turbo boost is not linear, the sudden influx of boost can wear on the engine and after one summer of running it without an IC, detonation will occur, by product of hotter operating temps, boost, etc, etc. This makes sense to me, does it to you guys? Another one of my friends stands by the idea that up to 12psi of boost, no IC is needed, just proper fueling and you good to go. Thus implying that the install of an IC would be a waste of money. On a daily basis, I would run the KMS kit from 6-8psi and then if I were to take it to the 1/4mile or want to have fun one night, I would push it to 10psi. This I have set at my personal max. So whats true and what isnt? do both carry some validity? I just have always been under the impression that if you turbo, you need an IC, and the concept of liner boost vs. non-linear (turbo vs. supercharger) makes perfect sense to me. The other thing. Before I tack this turbo kit on, I plan on rebuilding my engine. What makes more sense, building a nice stout NA motor and then adding the turbo, or building a turbo motor (turbo pistons, lower compression, etc,)? I dont forsee needing to, but I would like to be able to remove the kit and still drive the car, should something go wrong. Any information is appreciated. thanks, LOUIS

How close do the speaker pods get to the parcel trays? I ask because im in the US and we got stuck with knee bars, and I dont know if Audiscape's items will clear.