waynos

whoops sorry wrong section ...my bad!

made a gauge pod from fibreglass to house my volt meter. I dont really like the pillar mount ones. it fits in where the speaker grille goes on the dash. Hope you all like it?

i have exactly the same problem mate, been through 3 batteries in the last year. have changed the starter, all wires goin to alternator and recently changed my reconditioned 65 amp alternator for a reconditioned 90 amp and i still have the problem. i also have the same issue with the charging light not going out until you rev it so i might change the regulator. are these available from vw? does anyone know how much they are likely to cost?

the whole car if possible?

have got myself a tim ammeter but i have lost the instructions doh! does anyone kno how to wire these up? ive herad that they have to be put in line with the alternator to battery lead or starter to battery lead. however ive just upgraded these to nice thicker cables and it doesnt seem to make sense to cut a thick wire to put thinner wire running to to the gauge and then thick wire back to the battery. is there any other wire i can connect this in line with? eg the wire that goes from the battery to the fuse box?

i went out to start the car today and wen i put the key in and turned it i got nothing, instead i got some nasty noise from the starter motor.like a buzzing or a motor running sound. It didnt stop until my dad wiggled the big wire that goes to it from the battery. My question is why the hell did it make that noise. it is a fairly new starter aswell. Is this more likely to be a wiring problem?because the wire that my dad wiggled is definatly not standard. Someone else has changed it for some thicker stuff. Also could this be to blame for my intermittent flat battery that i sometimes get?

jesus! that much! whats wrong with using the german and swedish equivalentfor a mk3?

by the way does anyone know how much a genuine mk3 heater matrix costs?

jus use the search, you will find a guide on another corrado site. Its just learning where all the screws are in the dash really.Ive been behind there so many times with electrical faults. the swapping of the matrix is the easy part. If you are going to try it this guide may be handy http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/ultima ... 112#000003 just be patient!

hehe i fawt that was long? im in south london (croydon)

ive had the dash out so many times! i changed the last matrix in about 2 hours. have given it a go with the dash in and got the rite arse with it n gave up lol

lol what do you mean not likely. once the dash is out its quite easy isnt it? i didnt have too much trouble doing it last time

so just confirm this is just a straight swap yeah?

was reading the problems page in this months golf magazine. A chap with a mk2 golf needs a new heater matrix because after 5 mins of turning the blower on the heat stops comming out of his vents. They said this was down to the bypass valves and that he should buy a mk3 golf matrix instead because there is no need for the valves with these. My question is can a mk3 heater matrix be used on a corrado? or any other model? i need to do mine again!

can i plastic weld it myself? or do you know anyone in south london that would do a decent job? somebody suggested i used the glass fibre mat stuff to fill in the gap n then smooth over with filler. would that look just as bad as using filler?

how can this be filled in? can fibre glass be used? or does it have to be welded? if it does have to be welded does anyone know who can do this work n how much would it cost? im so bored of the front of my car and im after something a bit different

ive recently changed the motor after mine was dead. it works ok on the switch. however i thought it wouldnt go up automatically until i went on the motorway. it comes up at 70 mph , isnt it meant to be 40? why is this and there anyway to change the speed it comes up easily?

ok at the moment i only have a 15 inch sub and amp. it doesnt drain much tho. is there a certain make i shud look out for? have seen a tim gauge but it looks a bit boring and tacky

i wanna buy one of these because id like to keep an eye on whats draining my battery (ive had a whole year of drain problems and its finally sorted) the thing is ive seen amp gauges that go from (-30a) - (0a) - (+30a) and (-60a) - (0a) - (+60a) what kind do i need? does it have to match the output of the alternator ? as im upgrading to a 90 amp alternator soon

My corrado has poxy manual windows. Was wondering what i would need to make them electric. I dont know wether to trust those aftermarket kits. Ive seen window motors/regulators on ebay and window control units Would it be possible to fit therse to my ca? how hard would it be to make the loom for them? Cheers

i wanna get one. what are peoples experiences on the plastic and fibreglass items? also if anyone has any pics of one on a red corrado that would be great. where would be the best place to get one? could be second hand i dont mind. my standard bumper has seen better days lol. it HAS to be a rs2 not the rs4 as dont think they really suit the shape of the corrado cheers

its a 1.8 16 valve. the alternator is a pesky 65 amp rating! the highest ive seen voltage wise is 13.5 with everything off. a vr6 alternator wouldnt fit would it? if it did would the 120 amp rating fry my wiring?

just an update,last night i did a few tests with my mate. we found out the stereo hardly drains the battery when running (15 inch alpine sub/amp , alpine h/u and components) so thats a relief the windscreen wipers hardly did anything either, however the power hungry feckers were the rear heated window, heaters and lights! didnt get any exact figures as it was raining and i wanted to get inside. but i remember at some stage the voltage readout dropping to 12v and somtimes even 11.5 when two or more things were on at once. im well shocked about that.when nothing is on the voltage is about 13.5 maybe its time for a bigger alternater , why did vw even bother fitting such a low rating one?

i posted a while ago bout having a battery drain. i ruled out the alternator because it was a new rebuilt item. months have gone by and i have the same problem with the battery going flat again. i did a test today with the engine runing (lights, radio and heater on) and im getting a poxy 12.37 volts. this isnt right is it?

had a look at that post and it looks like the same wire. thing is i still cant find it. does anone have a picture of this sender?