Yandards
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Everything posted by Yandards
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My brother runs the tomtom 3 system its very good but I did notice a few problems with it as opposed to a head unit based system. The road info was not the most up to date and he is using the latest map update it just seems that the new stuff has been left off. The GPS accuracy drifted a few times and it wasnt until we were past the junction that it was clear that that was the one you needed to take - bit of a pain in cities. The speaker on his Ipaq 5550 was not loud enough to hear at motorway speeds but that was with the windows up - I would recommend you get an extra speaker hooked up, this also makes it difficult to listen to tunes/radio. You are going to need to plug a GPRS phone in if you want traffic info and then bluetooth it to the PDA - you will also need to provide power to the PDA from the cigi lighter - this means you can't charge your phone if you are using it for GPRS. Route recalculation was not the most rapid and the 5550 is still one of the fastest PDA's on the market by a good margin. The POI (Points of Interest) plug ins are great - especially the GATSO one - both fixed and mobile cameras + two warnings but it cant tell you which way round the camera is facing. Overall I was very impressed with the system but for me the lack of integration with your current head unit cause some minor niggles but for the price of the system it is very good value for money; if you wanna go all silly with your sat nav you can always order one of these http://www.pioneer.co.uk/uk/product_det ... _id=25-112 I just have and will let you know how I get on with it. Cheers, Yan
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New head unit - ignition switch accessory position
Yandards replied to Yandards's topic in ICE 'n' Secure
Once again thank you for the rapid response :D Ok looks like I have managed to burn another hole in my pocket already!! Cheers, Yan -
New head unit - ignition switch accessory position
Yandards replied to Yandards's topic in ICE 'n' Secure
I know the car has only had two head units the original and another blaukpaunkt one fitted by the dealer, but if I read your post correctly what you are saying is that for the radio power the 'OFF' position is the same as having an 'ACC' position on a newer ignition switch? Or in other words the Radio harness power wire is always live. I am asking because I am looking at the pioneer integrated sat nav head unit and the manual says you need an 'ACC' postion to work properly (I am guessing this is for DVD playback) Its the AVIC-X1 unit if you are interested. And thanks for the lightning reply Henny! Cheers, Yan -
Quick question do the later C's have an accessory position on the ignition switch as the head unit I am looking into requires one and its not on my car ATM. I figured the easiest way around this was to fit a switch from a later model but I don't know which switches would fit. Cheers, Yan
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Yeah it took a shoulder from behind - damn it :( and Mr Windscreen repair man aint due til next Thursday!
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Its amazing how such a small thing can be such a pain in this ass..... Its from the handbrake grip cover if you are wondering and it does not 'simply' slide off like the haynes and Bentley manual state...
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Hey walt where about are ya? I live in Trowbridge so it would be nice to find another C down the road! Use the stealer because my car has a full VW SH but a friend has used Audi/VW Car in Melksham - 01225 709090 for his Golf Gti16v and said they were very good. Cheers, Yan
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As well as sawing a groove in the top of the bolt file two flats on either side, this way you should be able to get an adjustable as well as a screwdriver into play when you try to undo it. I would recommend trying to find some cobalt drill bits for drilling the remains out and then use an easi-out or other extractor - think you can get them from halfords. The reason for the cobalt bits is that they eat through steel but you need a flat surface and they can shatter if they are abused! so wear goggles. Laters, Yan
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Nice N reg Storm in green just outside Calne, I was in my pug diesel but you had both a new and an old Corrado Club UK stickers. Nice car!
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Also its worth having a read of the 16vg60 yahoo usergroup as there is a load of info with reference to parts required and some cheaper suppliers.
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My etka 6 runs fine on XP Pro no worries and so much lovely info! Yan
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I am in the process of working on this mod and it has been a bit of an eye opener! Like everyone else has said talk to John he is a great help and will point you in the right direction. As for spares it is probably easiest (if you have the space) to get both a 16v engine complete and a G60 one; as in loom, ECU, etc etc. You should be able to pick up both these units for about £600 as G60 units complete with charger are around £500 and you can get a complete KR unit for less than £100. This way you can swop over the bits you do need and flog the others on e-bay! I am also working on the assumption with my project that any mechanicals I get need to be striped and checked or reconned so that needs to be factored into your budget too, but ultimately John is the best guy to go and see about all of this. Laters, Yan
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Manually retracting it is annoying and I have a pre '92 car so the google page aint much use either - the link on the page for the pre '92 cars is fecked. Thanks for the tip though will dig around a bit more..
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I just use optimax or BP ultimate, but the problem with switching fuel suppliers is that car has adjust to the new fuel. I always used to fill my *cough* 306 TurboD *cough* up with Esso and if I filled it up with Shell it would lose around 50 miles of the range of a full tank - I do around 500 miles a week going to work and back so it only lasts a week. Then the Shell fuel got a lot cheaper than the Esso so I started using that - after around a month I was getting the same fuel economy as I was when using just Esso. I suppose it comes down to your sensor map in the ECU it needs to adjust to the slightly different properties of the fuel. Or that may just be bo11ox. Laters, Yan
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OK I'm not sure if this has been covered before but appart from getting a German controller is there any other way you can adjust the deployment and retraction speeds of the spoiler? i.e. Change the speed at which the spoiler retracts from around 5mph up to about 25mph? Cheers, Yan
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What size intercooler have you got stuffed in the front end? Its gotta be at a 700mm wide matrix on that beast... Nice motor although the power steering may give up with all the torque steer!!!! :twisted: Laters, Yan
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I've used silicon grease, kinda like vaseline on the rubber section and lubed the two rods that attach the spoiler, works well and no problems since then.
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Figured the box was gonna be expensive as the quaife 6 speed setupis about 2k for the internals too, just have to see how the cash goes closer to swapping the engines over. As for the bhp output I don't wanna be making outlandish claims as to what I am gonna get, but the original version of this engine that VW made so few of kicked out 208bhp so I would expect more than that with a TSR pack A head fitted and some breathing mods for the charger. :) Added you to my MSN aposegil - will be in touch! :D Yan P.S. Anyone know whats in the first aid kit as mine is still in its shrink wrap :shock: and I don't wanna open it.
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Looking at about 205bhp as a minimum final figure, should have plenty of tweaking options available because the charger is essentially gonna be standard spec, but I am fitting a TSR pack A head and have already got a set of uprated injectors and fuel pressure regulator, only problem I can foresee ATM is the exhaust will need completely replacing as it going to be causing a lot of back pressure in its standard spec. Don't have a problem with the box in its standard form its just while I am putting this beast together I figure I may as well make the crusing more lesuirely. Had a look at the Steath Racing site - so many nice mods just asking to be fitted! They do a six speed conversion that has the 6th gear function as an overdrive on 5th, just need to know how much now. Yan
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Lo all, thanks for the quick response, and to deal with the couple of questions, Got a standard 1.8 16v box at the moment which allows me to drive in 5th at 30 mph. I can't see the point of having another 70+bhp on tap and not making the cruising more relaxed, as most of my trip to work is done on roads where I can run at *cough* 70mph + *cough*. Whilst this may sound a bit odd I am quite happy to drop a gear to overtake so I dont see a longer - even really long 5th as a problem as long as it pulls ok at about 40mph + Thanks again, Yan
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I am currently building a 1.8 16v G60 and would like to fit a gearbox with a longer 4th and 5th gear, or just 5th gear to make better use of the available power and torque this mod will bring, Can anyone provide any suggestions as to the easiest way to do this or are there any gearbox builders/recon firms that can do this? Thanks, Yan
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Thats the one I was looking at just wasn't sure that 350kg was going to be enough. Cheers, Yan
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Quick question as I can't find in the Haynes 'Pack of lies' or any other manual I have electronic or otherwise. What is the approximate weight of a 1.8 16v KR series engine with gearbox attached? And same question but without g box Stick most of the ancils on that waterpump,manifolds etc. I ask because I need to buy an engine stand while I recon the block I bought for a G60 16v conversion. :D Cheers, Yan
