Yandards

Whilst the sealing bod may have been having a bad day it is worth pointing out that due to the increasing age of our cars that these sorts of 'odd' bits of rust are going to become more common. So it would be good if everyone posts up some pics of where they have had corrosion then we can all panick and start ripping our cars to bits! Also with the sealent becoming older it will harden and crack, this will allow a bit of capillery action; sucking any moisture into the cracked sealent and setting up good conditions for corrosion. Nice example of how to remove corrosion though Andy Cheers, Yan

Gutted, you must feel lousy but at least you are ok - another testiment to the C's crash safety. I've had a couple of sideways moments recently - scared the car coming the other way more that it did me but I do appear to have picked a lousy time of year to try to set-up my new suspension :oops:

Er, cor blimey I appear to have opened a right can of worms with this one! My apologies for any *apparent* mis-spelling but I have to agree with kevs final point - they are great and as long as you can order the right ones it doesn't matter a bit how the damn thing is spelt!

Just had these fitted today (Big thanks to John down at JMR) and I can't recommend them highly enough, I can now corner that quickly that the oil warning buzzer comes on :shock: ...Better top it up I suppose. Cheers, Yan

Dan I have already got one from e-bay. Can give you part nos from it if you need them. Cheers

It just goes to show that air temperature/density is everything on a car with forced induction - a spot of moisture helps too! Glad I am planning on fitting that shiny new Merc Sprinter intercooler now then...

F**king bastards! Why do theses wankers insist on doing this when you have just finnished the car? :mad: They could at least be 'tidy' thieves; makes you wish they would just put a window through and leave it at that sometimes... Hope you get it all sorted with no problems though.

Sorry :oops:

Hi, Just wanted to let everyone know that the 'stealer still supplies these for about £28.00 inc VAT if you are trying to find one. Cheers, Yan

Oh well it might have taken a while to sort out but at least this didn't happen to you..... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= Shouldn't have pulled so hard! Yan

Hi, Part number on the bottom of the intercooler is 816890. Other numbers are AA1031 854183W and 'Made In France' :shock: :oops: I have attached a file showing approx. dimms of the intercooler. Other dims are core is 35mm deep and end caps are 50mm deep, end caps (inlet/outlet connections) are 90mm deep with standard 2.5" diameter outlets. I got mine from german e-bay brand new for about £170.00 but if you know how big you want it (oh-er!) then I would recommend having a look at some US companies as the exchange rate is goooood ATM. Cheers, Yan P.S. Darren any chance of a few pics of the install on your car ? Save me a lot of headscratching about where to cut!

Hallo, Not thats its a lot of use to you but I am planning on fitting one of these as part of my G6016v conversion, I will have a look in the loft tomorrow to see if I can see a prt number for you. Let me know how you get on if you fit yours before me! Cheers, Yan

The wheel bearing, will stick some pics up tomorrow when I get chance. Hammer time is good but I need to get something in first to lever before I hammer.

I am in the process of reconning some G60 hubs as parts of my current project but after splitting the hub from the lower suspension arm I am left with some of the bearing still attached to the hub. Any ideas how to split these two bits apart? Cheers, Yan

Anyone have a good number for one of these from VAG? Can't find it on my ETKA. Cheers

I would place a good bet on the valve inside the oil filters is a non-return valve (NRV) to prevent oil flowing back into the sump when the engine is switched off. As these are just spring based valves and the type of spring used would be decided by the manufacturer then the pressure at which the valve operates can easily be varied. So as the oil from the engine is used to lube the charger I would guess that the VAG engineers decided that they needed an uprated NRV to try to keep the charger primed with oil before startup. In other words if you don't use the genuine VAG oil filter you could well be reducing the life of your charger!!! :shock:

Whoa 600 bhp, and that chassis twist on the gear peak acceleration :shock:

You can always get the DVLA to provide the V5 or log book history, I think they charge around a fiver if memory serves me correctly. This will provide you with copies of all the previous owners V5's and although its a long shot you can then write to the address shown on file asking for photos etc. This may turn up when and why your C has been repaired but it also might turn up some other earlier history that wasn't passed on as people are funny about stuff like that sometimes. Cheers, Yan

Ok so I moved house and had a look at the car. I swaped the leads over but that didnt work, after a bit of tugging on the loom I found the original wiring for the cars radio loom. The red and yellow wires are both going into a 'pink with a white stripe' coloured wire Black wire on radio harness goes to a brown wire. This is earth I can read that part of the circuit diagram! Orange illumination wire goes to blue and grey wire. This is the 'illumination' part of the cars loom. Blue wire with a white stripe is capped off. Now its pointless me digging out a multimeter as I know I am missing a wire but according to the UK VAG Corrado circuit diagram I have in front of me I shouldn't have any more than that. I have a ro (Red live) into the Radio A br (brown earth) out A bl/ws going to the speed sensor A gr/bl going to the illumination. So aside from the fact the my red wire looks pink with a white stripe I can't see where the extra wire comes from!?!? Is this right? I am assuming from the somewhat confusing info I have in front of me, I hate wiring diagrams, that I am not supposed to have any other radio cage wires and I can't see where the power comes from off the ignition key in either from looking at the ignition switch wiring diagram. Any pointers would be most helpful, Frustrated and confused, Yan

This was my first one, nice mag considering the size of the club compared to my 'old' car club the TSSC. Good job Jim

Cheers guys will let you know the result when I get around to sorting it out - in the middle of moving house so its gonna have to take a back seat for now.... Cheers, Yan

My new head unit is a pioneer, got the AVIC-X1 sat nav system - very impressed so far but the damn cooling fans keep running with ignition off and no key - hence this thread. Will have a good look into the lead swap - might cure it, cheers for that pointer pablo. Yan

I have got a multimeter, I just hate electrics and I still need to know how its supposed to work... :wink: Looking at what Henny said above I should be able to take the key outta the ignition and all power (except for the memory live wire) should be removed from the radio wiring harness, but it aint happening that way! Cheers, Yan

Henny, I have sent you a PM requesting some more advice if you would be so kind, although it looks like my wiring may be a bit messed up! Cheers, Yan

No it really gets on my tits when people do - I call it 'highly localised fog' The basic fact is that it is illegal and if you need them on them maybe you need to clean your windscreen and lights!! :wink: Rant over. Yan