Geo

Check this site out: http://www.bb-automobiltechnik.de/english/mvw_polo_gti.html I know that's for a polo gti but they are the same engine afaik.....

It's a straightforward job, even more so if you are doing the shocks at the same time. Drop the balljoints, then take out the shocks, tie up the hubs out of your way and you'll have plenty of room to take out and refit the wishbones.

Ford dealer is very competitive price wise in my experience. I had a mondeo for 2 years and got all parts for it from the dealer. The wishbones will be pricey though, although you shouldn't need to buy them complete. You can get the rubber bushings for them for a couple of quid each from the dealer and get them pressed into the old wishbones. Don't buy non-genuine wishones or bushings they are absolute shite. The car won't drive properly with them at all.

I got it a few years ago. Only cost 40 quid or something. A guy came into the garage where I worked selling them so I got one. He said he came up with the idea and made them himself. Never saw them anywhere else since.

I've done loads of cv joints with it and I've never come across one that failed to come off after max 2-3 smacks with it. Great tool. Makes the job very easy.

Pics of cv joint removal tool showing how it works:

Thanks henny, I like the sound of that engine, must have a look at this car methinks.....

I was looking at a car the other evening and the guy selling it just asked me if I knew anyone interested in a corrado a friend of his had taken in as a part exchange. It's a tornado red 91 16V apparently. The guy also mentioned something about an oettinger engine. What is he talking about? Does anyone know anything about oettinger corrados? (I haven't seen the car btw but it sounds interesting)

No.

I wouldn't just fix up the split in the boot for the simple reason that you don't know what sort of grit/dirt has got into the hole to fcuk up the cv joint. Being quoted 1.5 hours is taking the piss as well. Even allowing for things to be seized up etc an hour at the most should do it. If everything goes smoothly it's a half hour job. @bcstudent the cv joint removal tool is hard to describe. I'll take a few pics of one and post them here tomorrow. (can't do it now cos my camera's usb cable is in work)

Because a split CV boot is an MOT failure.... I think he was talking about the cv joint itself, not the boot. It'd be stupid not to replace the boot, MOT or no MOT....

Thanks for the comments guys. @MikeVR6, yep, Castlewellan, well spotted. Were you at the show? @DanA, correct, Bright Blue Metallic, Code LP5U. I still reckon oak green is the best mk2 colour, with P5U a close second....

Some pics from a show a few weeks back....

If I were you and the cv joint wasn't making any noise or anything I wouldn't change it for a new one, just clean it out and pack it up with fresh cv joint grease when you have it off just in case any bits of grit etc got in when the boot was split. If you do get a new cv joint get a genuine vw/oem one as the others are shite. Cv joints can be a pain in the arse to get off the driveshaft without the proper tool. Balljoint could also be hard to dismantle due to corrosion etc. So it might be worth getting a price to see how much it would cost to get it done by a garage.

I agree with kev. Take a look at the stuff in the bottle and you'll never put it in your engine. How can the oil keep the engine clean with that shit stuck to every moving part in there? Regular oil changes are much more important.

Hi Mark 8) :wink: re the cv joint If it was in a grey/silver box then it might be a gkn one, and they are oe suppliers to vw so should be ok....

All of the above I'd say. Might take the cam cover off mine for a look some time. I hope it's not as bad as that though..

Soak it in WD40 first. Then get a hammer and hit the part of the hub where the track rod end goes through it. The impact will loosen the track rod end and it should pop out. Always works for me anyway.........and it doesn't damage the track rod end as long as you are careful.

you got a phone number I can contact you at kieron????

I think its a 7 alright. They can be hard to come by seperately. I had this problem last week putting brake pads in a mates fiesta. He said he had a set of allen keys but they didn't have a 7mm allen key. Couldn't find a 7 anywhere so had to go home for my own set! The best thing to do would be as Supercharged, said, buy a set of allen sockets. They are much better anyway....

I'm considering this upgrade for the brakes on my golf (from a 280mm g60 setup) Has anyone on here done it yet?? I know where I can get calipers at a reasonable price but what carriers will I need? Do I need the audi carriers or do the calipers fit onto the G60 ones. Also, has anyone fitted the larger diameter master cylinder to their car and is that a direct fit??

That's if it's full of petrol. 2/3 to 1/3 should be ok I've seen it done before, no problems...

I filled up with Tesco unleaded last night for the first time in ages and I thought the car wasn't accelerating as well as usual this morning. Never noticed a problem before though....

He'll probably get away with it. Depends on the car really. Could be down on power a bit but should run ok.

Yeah those specs are bullsh1t. Although I'd say your 205s will go in 8 inch rims no problem...