Geo
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Everything posted by Geo
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they don't even have to be noisy to be worn out. There's another thread about this http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22825&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
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You need to remove the instrument cluster then take it apart to replace the bulb. I did one for a mate a few months back I can't remember exactly how the instruments come apart to replace the bulb but I do remember they came apart much easier than the scrap mk2 clocks I took the replacement bulb out of. I think the face just clips off them or something like that and then you can just remove the old bulb and replace it. (that was a 1990 16V)
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that doesn't look like the right sleeve to me. I thought they were thicker than that
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My MFA on the golf is generally about 10-15% too optimistic on the mpg figures it gives. It normally reckons around 33-35 as an average while the actual average is around 30ish.
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I don't think they got the 288 brakes until 95ish. A 93 would have 280s AFAIK
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Nah the ford box was just for holding all the bits and pieces in, that's a good point about the ford parts though, I reckon in future I might be buying lots of parts for a galaxy vr6! Since that picture was taken I have replaced the lower and upper timing covers, flywheel and water pump.
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The only cure is to get the affected areas repainted.
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I did this job over the weekend, once you know what you are doing it is quite a simple job but it's not something you should tackle if you are in any doubt about your ability to do the job correctly. I found this link very useful in getting the timing set up: http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=001122;p= If anyone has a link to the guide PhatVR6 did I would like to have a look at it btw....
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Starting to look like an engine now anyway Dec!
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Update pic: Set up bottom end timing and chain assembly, re assembled and refitted head, set up top end timing. Not a bad way to spend a saturday night :lol: :roll:
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I'll see what I can do about weighing it. Obviously everything will be cleaned before reassembly, I just put it on the floor like that to sort out all the nuts and bolts and figure out what they were for. The engine arrived in the car in about 3 or 4 boxes and the block and head were in the boot.
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Tell me about it, you want to call down at the weekend and give me a hand :lol: I reckon I might have to dismantle the other one to give me an idea of what I'm doing :-P Can I get a loan of that CD off you?
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I am currently in the process of re-assembling a VR6 after timing chain guide rail failure. I just have a couple of questions for any VR experts on here :) The head has been reconditioned and I am happy with the condition of the bottom end, I have all new gaskets, head bolts, timing chains, guide rails etc. I am also planning on replacing the lower timing chain cover seal (the one at the flywheel) and of course the clutch. Someone also suggested I replace the water pump. Has anyone got any other suggestions for replacing parts that are known to fail and would require a lot of work to replace when the engine is back in the car (a vento btw) And if anyone has any links or any other information on VR6 reassembly it would be great as I didn't take the engine apart myself so I'll have to figure it out as I go along. ps: this is what it looks like at the moment :lol:
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I wouldn't put any of that flush stuff near my engine. Modern oils all have detergents built in and should keep the engine clean enough.
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I'm in the process of rebuilding a 2.8 VR6 out of a vento after a timing chain failure at....yes you've guessed it, 119k miles. If the chains haven't been replaced then get it done asap.
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I took the head off a similar mileage G60 engine last week and it was in the same state. There was a serious build up of crap on the inside of the rocker cover as well. Like your engine the cam lobes were perfect but when I got the head off there was serious wear on the bores.
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When did the charger last get a rebuild?
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It couldn't have been or your charger would be toast AFAIK
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was it split in half all around the length of the belt but still turning the pulley ok? If so you are a lucky bastard!
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Yeah it sounds similar to what my old GTI used to do. It never crunched on a downchange either, only when changing from 1st to 2nd when really pushing on. As I say I never tried to fix it so I'm not 100% sure that it was the syncro that was the problem but I'd say it more than likely is.
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I never knew that vr6storm. I stand corrected :D [cough]anorak[/cough] :lol: :wink:
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Yeah that's the type fitted to early mk3 golf VR6s. Never came on Corrados to my knowledge. They look quite similar to the G60 wheel but aren't actually the same. If you had the 2 side by side you'd see that they are different.
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This is a very common VW problem it used to happen my old golf GTI 8v, mk2 diesel and mk3 turbodiesel. I always thought it was the syncro ring on 2nd gear getting worn but I never actually bothered getting it fixed on any of the cars so I don't know for sure. PS: it never happens my current mk2 GTI 8v even though the front engine mount is completely knackered so I'm not sure if that would have any bearing on it.
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definitely, VR6 is 5x100pcd, G60 is 4x100pcd I think I know the type of wheel you are talking about anyway are they the bbs cross spoke type? If they are they are off a Mk3 Golf VR6 originally and the ET at 43 is different to your other 3 G60 wheels even if it would bolt onto the car.