Riley

Yep. More than likely the cable. Be sure not to grease or oil the new one as they are self lubricating, adding anything tends to make them sticky. Neil.

Could be worth that all day long, but needs to be seen in the flesh obviously. It's worth whatever somebody looking for one deems it to be worth to them. As an example to go off, my Mum sold hers around 4 years ago for £3K to the first viewer, none sunroof model and was absolutely immaculate. 50K miles on the clock and she was only the second owner iirc. Would love to know where it is now actually!

If it was built after 23/3/1992 then it should be late spec. You can find out your build/manufacture date here > http://www.vagauto.com/mainclass.php Neil.

What the hell have I just watched? I don't get it. :bonk:

New Febi front wiper motor fitted. Wiper is supercharged now!

Thanks Neal and no problem, mine is still working...for now although not for long I suspect lol! Also, I'd just like to point out to anyone else that I'm sure that Neal genuinely didn't realise the handle was broken (Never seen one broken there before myself either) and items were posted quickly etc. Good guy to deal with, thanks mate. :thumbleft: Neil.

Lol. Hasan, glad someone else appreciates the Classic Borbet A's!:smug: No problem Jason...They (Borbet B's and Borbet A's) are all: 9x16 ET15 4x100 Tyres are all 215/40/16. But! I had 6mm machined off the face of some new rear brake discs, which made them sit in a touch (Well 6mm!) at the rear. Worth bearing in mind that mine is a late model too (Wider front wings). Neil.

Hi Neal, Unfortunately my handle (Already with an uprated striker from Dave on here) has broken at the larger pin fitting so there's nothing I can do to fix it. If you can fire the £20 quid back please that would be great (Volksdevil at hotmai|.com) I'll throw the handle in the bin, unless you want me to pop you the striker back? Neil.

Want me to send it back Neal?:thumbleft:

How do! Thanks for the kind words! :thumbleft: I'm glad somebody agrees about the Borbet A's as most seem to prefer the Borbet B's. I'll get the A's back on at some stage once sorted though as they are my fave wheel of all time with black centers. Neil. Some pics for you on both, and also the old design 90's that a mate of mine preferred over any of the Borbets lol.

Yeah, that's the ideal thing to do I suppose as if anything goes wrong with the lc1 then there's no chance of it 'messing' with the narrowband signal to the ecu. Just a hassle to have a lambda welded into the exhaust, especially around here as it's always hard to find anyone who can do a proper job :-( What sort of other kits are there just out of interest? AEM UEGO? To be honest, I may remove the wideband completely for now and go back to standard as I'm about to buy a kitchen for the house project so money is tight! Neil.

Good stuff, cheers mate.

Have tried the free air calibration with no success unfortunately. Today it's been working, but it ended up sporadic again, sticking at 14.4 while driving. And then it simply alternated between only 11.3 and 11.4 till the engine was shut off. Weird. I've rechecked all the earths etc. cleaned them up, no difference.

Bump.

Bump.

Spot on, cheers lads. :thumbleft: Maybe it was changed in the past then, or it's just the original one (Damn confusing late style G60) Do you know if the plug will be the same? I've got a niggling that it's different for some reason? Probably just mentally preparing myself for something not being quite right lol. Neil.

OK, Here's the script for the G60... I've been running an lc1 setup for a while, and I use it to feed the digi ecu via a narrowband simulation/output. All was 'sort of' ok, as when I went to do any logging I found the fact that a laptop with a silly bloody serial port was required so I just didn't bother with that side of things for a while... More recently I wanted to get it working so I found a serial > usb convertor lead and plugged it in and tried to run the logworks software. Obviously it didn't bloody work...It popped up saying 'No serial port' So after lots of searching online, I downloaded some random driver from some random site and it did the trick. Logworks actually worked and I got some logs! Typically though things have gone boobs up... My AFR gauge started p1ssing about, jumping stright from 7.4 (Very rich) to 21.9 (Very lean) at tickover and while driving, it then started jumping to random numbers rather than smoothly going up and down the scale. After a while it just sat at 7.4 static. I searched the net and people are mentioning error code 8. I checked for an error code via the led i fitted, and I did indeed have error code 8. People are saying that you need to roll back the firmware from version 1.1 to 1.0 all over the net and yet I can't find it anywhere! Frustratingly and bloody annoyingly, even the innovate website only has version 1.1 from 2007!!! So i thought sod it, I'll redownload and upload that to see if it cures the problem. Uploaded it and now the gauge cyles as normal for a few minutes and then sticks at 14AFR. So i then tried running logworks to see what that was showing...and guess what. It now won't connect again! 'No serial port' I've had enough! The error code is supposedly pointing towards a knackered lambda or it's over heated. But I don't feel like spending £80 on a new lambda now after all the hassle with this kit. If I buy one, it possibly won't fix the issue, and will the crap logworks work again? Too many ifs and buts... What to do? Sorry for the long winded post but that's the sequence of events. Neil.

Hi Neal, I'm really short on time lately so haven't had a chance to have a proper look as yet. But I'm a bit of a perfectionist so I don't think I'll be using the handle. Would you like me to send it back? Neil.

My front wiper motor has given up so I'm looking for a new one. I came across this one (Also listed on ebay) > http://seekpart24.com/febi/wiper-motor-17092?c=100134&at=1582 but there's some confusion over whether or not it will be the same as mine (Plugs) That site references these numbers which aren't right for mine... 1J0 955 1191C0 955 1191H0 955 1191C2 955 113 B1C1 955 113 B Mine is a 92 car with chassis number 502nk011422 and the part number on my current motor is: 536 955 113A which is more an early style number being 536. So would that motor be the same? Can't find anything anywhere regards my own part number?! Neil.

Tis surprising after so long...:scratch: I can only imagine mate, I'm sort of the same. Would rather a painter do a proper job than do it myself (Can paint alright but would rather find!!!/pay a pro) Real sh1tter...But a good way to look at sorting it.:thumbleft:

Hi Michael, Our light protection films were developed for Leman racing/classification (Yellow) and protection, so they are race proven over many years. They are adhesive backed for easy fitment and removal should you require. Our product is very, very different to a sticker or graphics vinyl. You can actually request any samples at: http://www.Lamin-X.co.uk/samples.htm which will allow you to get a look/feel of the product. There are basic fitting instructions/guides etc on the downloads page too. As an example, to protect both Corrado headlight faces, the product cost would be just £15.99. I don't want to step on Owen's toes so obviously I'd like anyone to make their own decision on product choice, and he's a good lad, I'm just adding a little info regards our product. In fact we have had many members of the general public fit our light protection onto plastic/perspex/plexi covers. I hope that helps. :thumbleft:

As davidwort says :-( Have you run the car before noticing it? I'd imagine the cold weather plus the heat from under the bonnet has heated any moisture that was inbetween the paint and brought it to surface. I tend to get steam coming off the bonnet when it's really cold, that's the sort of thing I mean. Do you have the sound deadening stuff on the underside?

Hi Neal, received the handle and headlight switch thanks. Unfortunately the handle is actually broken :-( I've not seen one broken like this before! :scratch: Just trying to upload pics but not sure it's working... [ATTACH=CONFIG]72096[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]72097[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]72098[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]72099[/ATTACH]

I use this > http://www.vapestick.co.uk/vapestick-classic-e-cig.html Sort of using it inbetween. Whenever I go out I don't take the fags anymore so it's helping cut down a lot! They just brought out some new cartridges too, not tried them yet.

You could have a local garage check the oil pressure for you, although can't beat a permanent gauge when you can get one. And yep the oil is fed via a braided line to the charger bearings. The line is sized both in length and internal diameter to regulate the pressure to a certain extent. If you struggle to find the synta silver oil, I always use Vwspares for it, fantastic service and prices. > http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1137 I'd look at getting a new temp sender (Small one on front of oil filter head) and then see how you go. As soon as possible really. It would be worth checking the sender wire too, because it works through earth so a slightly iffy end/connection could be causing higher resistance/incorrect readings.