Riley

Ive already blagged the local ally welder for something else... :lol: Don't wanna push him too much. I could throw a steel one together, but then the ally c/o pot socket would be a problem...Id like ally to go with the rest of the new bits too really :wink:

Aye...not quite right, cheers though mate :)

Im going to be going for an alloy boost pipe, the one with the c/o pot hole on there... Can people show me what they have, how much and where from etc? :) I can only see them as a kit from places such as bartek etc. I just don't know if different shapes are available...I need one to pretty much come from a 90 silicone on the throttle body and bend down towards original intercooler. Cheers,Neil.

Is it adjusted with everything plugged in and up to temp then? No certain procedure is there i mean? Neil. :)

I had 6mm machined off new rear brake discs mate, and ran a flap disc around the lip of the arch to get an extra couple mm. :) I run 215/40 tyres and it never really catches anymore (just once on a super bad hole in the road) Neil.

Hows about an average of all of those? :lol: Sorry, i realise its a very vague question, but im only after a vague/rough answer really... :) Flusted, bloody hell...10dc, thats some good going eh? Is that pottering about or giving it some stick? Neil.

Does anyone have some figures they could throw up please? :) Neil.

Bought some new hose for the ecu/other bits... And erm... Neil.

The hose is £8 quid from vw...if you haven't replaced it. Probably worth a new/secondhand pressure switch and copper washer too. Iirc,it turns the fuel pump on if pressure drops below around 0.2bar or something crazy. Neil. :)

That would be cool mate. :) I just feckingwell missed a cheap knock sensor on ebay...Thought it may be worth a try,feck all else seems to have worked :lol:

Its a while since i looked,but from what i remember... The two wires on the car side of the loom go like this: Brown runs from plug across bulk head to a junction with other earths,then splits to ecu and negative on battery. Red/White runs from plug to back of fuse box where it then runs back to the fuel pump? Whats your thinking mate? :) And can anyone confirm that the wiring sounds correct? Neil.

Aye,Ive tried various pocoyo,i mean Stu :lol: Standard ecu,ecu with a superchip,ecu with another sns chip...And a couple of different ecu's off a mates car etc. The problem has been there the whole time :( Haven't tried vag.com as it only works for the abs,but i did do a flash test of the original ecu a good while ago now,can't remember what came up but it was a few things - lambda,bts,and a couple of others. Neil.

Anyone got a pic or two of the back of a G fuse box? With all wiring intact? Cheers,Neil. :)

Its a new bosch lambda guys,and the problem is still there with the lambda unplugged.(This was sussed around 12 months ago) I snipped the lambda wire today too,to see if it stops a possible problem in the loom...still the same. boost monkey,Im not sure meself...sounds possible? Although if it was overfuelling,surely holding the WOT switch closed would make things worse? (unless there is a wiring problem on the lamda side somehow?) Bump for more feedback on the vids! Cheers,Neil. :)

:lol:

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=mC8KYkIBvsQ One nil to the Rado! 8) :D Neil.

Fuel pressure was tested a while ago mate,all checked out fine. c/o also checks out fine...Cant remember the figures now,but i got them at mot time and they were spot on. My mates mk2 g60 conversion showed to be running leaner at his mot and its all good. More video's...hope they help :( Video 1: Showing fluctuating voltage at lambda on ecu plug...And then stable once i hold the WOT switch closed. And fluctuating once i let go again...Notice how it revs a lot slower/less responsively than video 2 below. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=JiUTY7F32vk Video 2: Connected to a cold BTS,see how it revs a lot more cleanly,and no popping.The BTS is maybe the fourth or fifth one ive tried,its a new v.a.g one. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=abpd39YRJOk Neil. :( :)

Bastuck are damn good quality as far as i know mate 8) Often used on porsche iirc... Neil. :)

Any response on the above? :) I got some video...You will have to excuse the lack of lighting on the boost gauge :oops: turning the volume up will help too. Video 1 - Showing ticking over from cold, and showing vac on mfa. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=uiYVXnAh0mA Video 2 - Just as i move away from the boost gauge you will hear the car sneeze...once,twice and a third time. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=rdGupfF1tI0 Video 3 - Showing it up on the boost gauge, 17 seconds in. Also around 27 seconds you may hear it rev differently? http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=4CIXoC2djrg After this... I disconnected the bts and reconnected it to a cold one sat on the slam panel. The tickover rose and it seemed to rev more responsively,and no popping. I reconnected to the bts on the rad pipe, i revved it by hand and it popped. What we reckon? :) Neil.

Something else i may try...Snip the lambda signal wire right up at the ecu? Not something i really want to do...but it was suggested by a friend of a friend,to see if it gives an instant cure which then points to a problem in the lambda loom on the car iirc. Its just confusing the hell out of me...is it fuel or leccy related :? Do i need red tops? :? Do i need a 3.5bar fpr? :? I dunno...But one thing i do know is that it won't get to me or the valver on 45 carbs will go in there to wake it up a bit!

Cheers guys...I can appreciate its been hard to follow the longest running problem in automotive history :lol: I can't really stretch to a new lump at the moment..im in quite a bit of debt until my house sells and to be honest im pretty sure the block is a damn good one... Evidence: :D http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=SKByptO_Wss http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=2-D28Y7BJck I did have the head off and reseated the valves/new stem seals etc etc and it all looked propper mint :? Ive done compression tests and...have an average of the below on all four pots. Im pretty sure it starts to happen as the car gets warm aye... :( I may have an old bts knocking about somewhere...ill try that trick if so :) Cheers guys. Neil.

From what i remember (sorry its been a hell of an adventure? :lol: ) it dosn't do it when first started...I don't think. :oops: Ive tried 3 fpr's on it now (1 yesterday) so i can discount a problem there. Ive pretty much swapped/replaced everything i possibly can really :shock: Neil.

Yeah,same problem mate :( Just that the g is off the road now so i can mess with it as and when i guess. I will have a look on the vortex and see what comes up...haven't been on there for a while :) Dan, Im open to all poss causes mate :D All the carbon build up idea etc is probably along the wrong lines,after having the head off/reseating the valves etc...But the lean mixture is a possability,as its slow to rev too (unless WOT taped shut) Im just wondering if there is something wrong with my spec maybe thats been overlooked? :? Full blend psd charger. 68mm pully. sns stage 5 chip. Neil.

Small update:14/1/08 I tried a different (tidy) injector wiring loom and (tidy) pressure regulator today...The problem is still bloody well there! :( But i did notice something i haven't clocked onto before... The scenario: Sat in car up to temp,quickly stabbing the throttle which keeps it around 1500rpm. Its slow to rev and pops/farts. The boost gauge jumps from -20 to 0. And...When it pops/farts...The boost gauge really violently bangs up to +5 or +10 psi. So quickly that you struggle to see it :? So my thinking is that there is definately a problem within the intake system somewhere...But why would taping the WOT switch shut totally cure it!? :( Neil.

yEP,THIS SHOWS THAT THE WATER PUMP(S) WORKING :) Oops...caps lock :oops: Neil.