JMC

Spotted a green L reg Vr6 this morning at 8AM on one of the slip roads coming into Heathrow. I was in a somewhat less glamourous bus going in the opposite direction. Been away in Zurich for the weekend, and even saw a Veyron on the road, but no Rado's - therefore Rados must be more prestigous than Veyrons :lol:

Holy sheet that is a lot from a G60. Out of interest what was the "at the wheel" BHP like? I'm running a 1.9l with a Gwerks fast road head (and schrick cam) and a fair bit of other work and I made just over 200bhp at the wheels. I have heard of higher but not many without going to really lairy cams. Most of the 2l ones are transporter van engines which don't like to rev. There was one from a guy called BERNO on Dubforce who I think got it from BlueJoe on here years ago, which was making this type of power. And CTWG60 had a 2l he was working on as well, but there aren't that many out there.

I have a Rallye ubend, gasket and bolts up for sale on ebay at the moment (due to end sunday night). http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260781520246&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

One final question, can you please check the colour of the wiring to the connector of the central locking. Are the three wires red, brown and black? The reason I ask is that I bought a handle previously but the wires were different to the one that came off my car, and the central locking didn't work, and I'd like to make sure that this is the same as my original one. Thanks.

Do you still have the drivers door handle please (ideally with a key but not a deal breaker if not) and assuming it has central locking?

Very envious Chazrad, I've just been 'reminded' that we are in Zurich next weekend, so will have to pass on this one. Gutted.

You know what, I'd like to come to this if there is still space. Been ages since I've met up with some fellow owners.

Your Jabba chip is likely to have something to do with it (they have a reputation for running rich). Do you have any head work (I see from your sig that you have Newman cam, but can't see what head work has been done if any). That'll also impact economy. No reason why should shouldn't be able to get 30+ out of one of these even with some fun with it. Talk with G-werks or DG about a decent chip for your setup.

Greetings and welcome to the forum, and good luck with the G60. I have just been out in San Francisco for a week, and was wondering whether there were any Corrados in California. Looks like there are :)

I have a Rallye ubend and gasket (the really rare part) and all the fixing bolts as well for sale at the moment if interested mate. Drop me a PM if you are interested.

Eerrr, to give another perspective, Golf G60 intercooler and pipework. No hacking at all needed, and it looks factory. Definately easier than needing an extra rad, and pump, and water supply, and making up pipework.

AFAIK G40 plugs run slightly colder than G60 ones. Therefore you can run a little more ignition advance before you get knock. Normally only really needed in highly tuned and high power setups - they wont hurt on basic setups, but there are much better ways of spending 40 quid... To be honest I still use G60 plugs in mine - I've tried G40 ones and not noticed any difference, but for anyone who is putting together a big system all at once and then having it mapped you may as well fit them before its mapped.

My systems very simialr to your mate. The headwork on mine is a gwerks fast rouad one, and of course it has the 1.9l rebuild. Power wise, you should be somewhere around 230-235bhp at the fly (depending on where you take it as all rolling roads vary, and of course on how it's tuned). For context with mine I get just shy of 250 at Stealth, and I'm running about 11psi wth a healthy charger given the head work.

With that degree of tuning and if you're having it all done at once you may as well put a new set of G40 plugs in there. Unless you're having a capacity increase, you are unlikely to need a 3.5fpr and redtops - just go with one or the other (put it this way I'm running 250bhp on 1.9l G60 and have redtops but no 3.5bar fpr as it wasn't needed).

Right, not close to G-werks then, lol. In the US you are best off talking with Bahn Brenner Motorsport regarding G60's. Also if you are not on there already check out the G60 section of VW Vortex. Yes the brass thing is the fpr. To the right of that is a solid plastic fuel rail - either the fpr has come loose (or the o-ring has perished) or the fuel rail has cracked. They do crack becasue it gets really hot back there and the plastic goes brittle. Either way get it changed/repaired ASAP as the alternative is a fire. The fuel hoses coming into the for also crack at the ends - make sure it isn't one of those. They typically leak worst when the car is cold.

1st thing to do if you don't know the history of the charger is to get it rebuilt. They all whine to some extent, but if it hasn't rebuilt for 40k miles chances are it'll need it. The last thing you want is for it to go 'pop' on you. If you are within driving distance, get yourself booked in to G-Werks at Littlehampton for a charger rebuild and general health check. Idle should be around 750rpm when warm. Mine used to try and die when it was running rich. The right chip sorted that with me (mine originally had a Jabba chip when I got it which ran very rich - I got rid and got an SNS chip). Easiest (but not cheapest) upgrade to the stock IC is a Golf G60 one or a Rallye one (some slight modification needed for that one though while the Golf G60 one is a direct fit). A lot of people fit generic ebay ones as well though, but it depends on whether you want it to looks stock though.

I used a black fabric spray mate. Can't remember what type unfortunately.

You can spray the headlining (I've done it). Took about 3 cans of paint given the surface area of all the fibres, and as soon as you touch it it gets marked. The best way is to recover it if you want a durable decent colour change.

When you open up the delimster switch be very careful - there are 2 spring loaded 'posts' which have a tendancy to ping out. The best way I've found to keep everything in place is to open it upside down and slowly. The light switch is easier to get into. You'll need something like a set of thin watchmakers screwdrivers to get into them.

Both of those should be easily fixable if you have a soldering iron. Get a couple of small 12v bulbs from Maplin, or more preferably for the icon in the lights switch a 12v led rather than a bulb as it generates less heat.

Ah, you see I use the alarm fob, but also lock it by the handle occasionally, so I'm going to be needing the one with the cable then. Yep, have spoken with emu - keep me posted please mate. I think I have managed to source one by without a key (and I'll need to trasnfer over m own lock barrel), so it may or may not work but fingers crossed.

No, I've already replaced that part from daves kit. It was nother piece of metal that has died becuase of metal fatigue unfortunately. So it sounds as though it might make sense then... ---------- Post added at 01:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:01 PM ---------- Aww hell, just realised I use mine on a mine of using the standard central locking (by the key) as well as the alarm, so this probably wont work :(

Just had a chat with GPC as I'm trying to track down a replacement drivers door handle after mine broke. I know these are rare as hens teeth, however they said that if I have an aftermarket alarm system (which has it's own actuators for the central locking) then I can use a handle which doesn't have the central locking wiring built in which are apparently still available and not overly expensive (£41+VAT). Anybody heard this before - sounds too good to be true?

Do you have a working drivers side door handle and key please?