JMC

Hmm, I've got a lightened flywheel, and have always wondered about lightening the pulleys, but have heard the harmonic balancer shouldn't be lightened otherwise the engine can shake. With a full weight flywheel though, presumably that isn't as much of an issue so you should be ok. With everything lightened you'd need to make sure the balance for it all was spot on. Keep up the reports :)

Those new pulleys look good mate - I'd be interested to know how you get on with them once you've fitted and driven with them for a while.

Oh, and forgot to add, as soon as you start bigger engine mods you'll need to think about brakes upgrades, gearbox upgrades (limited slip diff, and VR6 1st and 2nd), suspension changes, ARB's, weight saving (carbon fibre bonnet) etc etc. All of these will have as much impact on driving enjoyment as a bit more power....

I was feeling charitable, lol.

There's a lot out there you can do, and without wanting to sound like a Mod "the search is your friend". In the mean time.... Cams. I had a Piper 285 on mine and I've got a Shrick 268/276 assymetric on there now. Is it any better, well the juries out. There's a lot of fans of the Shrick but I found the Piper to ne fine as well. You'll only really see big benefit from a cam though if you get head work done. The heads a very restrictive on the G60's. Manifolds - be wary of most as they have been designed for left handdrive, and will tend to burn though your drivers side (steering or CV - can't remember) boot. G-werks ones are very good (and right hand drive specific) but they are expensive and they only make them occasionally. Getting a flowed standard exhaust manifold is cheaper and less hassle although you wont see as big a benefit. If you've not done any mods on it I would recommend the following (in this order)... 68mm pulley and stage 4 the charger. Front mount intercooler. Oil cooler. Port and polish head and cam (add red top injectors). 4 branch manifold. Flow the throttle body. 1.9l rebuild with forged pistons. After each stage you'd need a remap as well. G-werks have plenty of off the shelf maps available which will cover pretty much every setup possible. Don't bother with a toothed belt unless you fancy carrying 4 spares with you. You may fancy usign a 65mm pulley, but not much point unless you flow the head as you can quickly get to the point where you exceed the MAP sensor pressure rating (1 bar on the G60's).

Presumably a taller 5th or much higher revving. Definately more power as well.

Mines running in combination with a Peloquin LSD and to be honest it hardly ever kicks in - but it's nice to know it's there when needed. There is deinately no problem with having both and as Kev says it can only be an additive benefit.

If you have a standard setup (standard intercooler, standard head, standard exhaust manifold etc) then an off the shelf chip for a 68mm pulley and stage 4 charger should be fine. Just be clear with whoever you get it from as to you setup. You only really need to get into custom maps when you change loads of different things.

Cheers mate. Now the house move is done I can settle in to some more jobs on the car. Need to patch up the bumper after getting a little too close to someone at a roundabout ages ago, and I still need to get the nitrous in :lol: Looking forward to putting the Racelogic traction control through it's paces this winter though, lol.

I had a Jabba chip on mine when I first got it - massively overfuelled and kicked black smoke out of the back. I would strongly recommend the SNS chips and a 68mm pulley especially if you have a standard head and standard intercooller. No point going 65mm unless you just like spending more money on rebuilds... With a stage 4 charger, and 68mm pulley the stndard injectors will be more than up to the job. I ran standard injectors with a 65mm pulley, flowed head and stage 4 charger for a couple of years, had it on an off dynos and wideband, and the injectors just coped with that (they were around 89% duty cycle when on WOT). Just make sure you mention every element of your setup when getting your chip.

Cool, looks like I'll be treating myself to one of these then.

Mines a 92 G60 (J reg) and has late wings and bonnet. Changeover was midway through 92 from memory.

Amazing car - top work :luvlove:

But the heater control panel is designed not to be taken apart to aloow you to replace the bulb. You can open them up though and replace it with a 12v bulb from Maplin, but you just have to be careful when doing so.

Anybody have any experience with how well those halfords all season medium car covers are at keeping frost and ice off the car?

Every 6 months (about 4k miles for me) - oil and filter (or if I'm feeling tight, oil only every 6 months and filter 1 per year). Mines a '92 G60.

10-11 psi not too far off, but it all depends on the head and cam really. Mines similar on a healthy charger (maybe 12psi on a nice cold day, lol). Definately worth getting the charger checked though with it being that age. If it's rubbish occasionally make sure the WOT microswitch is activated whehn the throttle is fully open, and make sure the throttle cable is properly adjusted. Minor changes in that can cause the butterfly valves in throtte not to close fully on WOT and the WOT not to activate.

I took the 2 relays from the aftermarket loom oput yesterday, and yep one of them had a lot of rust on a leg. Sanded it back, applied copious WD40 and put them back in and it seems to be working again. Will source a couple of enw relays when next at Maplin. Thanks for the advice folks.

Good call - will try that. Come to think of it I did swap over the relays when diagnosing my headlight problem before, and I didn't swap them back. Definately one to try.

Ok, here's an odd one. Got to the car last night, switched the headlights on (2 clicks), and nothing, just the side lights. I replaced 2 bulbs about a month ago, so the initial though was "oh, they must have gone again". Given it was dark, switched the foglights on so I had some light and drive home (all of 1.5 miles). When I got home the headlights were working again, so the bulbs obviously hadn't gone. Got home, engine and ignition off, a few times while testing the lights, and yep, everything fine and normal. Get up this morning, out to the car, same problem. Lights switched on, only the sidelights come on. Switch the fogs on, and no change to the headlights. Turn the fogs off and head off to work with the headlights switched on (both clicks on the switch) but only the sidelights working when I set off. When I get to work (all of 5mins) headlights are working normally. Grr, not needed at this time of the year. Anybody had any similar experience or any ideas as to what it could be. BTW I have an aftermarket loom (twin relay one from h100vw) which is a few years old now. I was wondering whether it could be that, or even the X-relief relay. Any ideas appreciated though as it's doing my nut in.

Here's one for the Corrado 16v G60...

I had a family of mice in my car a few years back. Check round the bay and hoover everythng out you can (chewed bits, etc). Set a few mouse traps inside the car incase they have got inside. Do not use poison, it'll crawl off and die and will stink.

There's plenty on here - check the search for more details. Basically pull the clocks forward, tap a t junction into the boost pipe going to the back of them and take your feed from that. Saves sending another pipe into the engine bay through the firewall. Autometer Sport Comp gauges are good if you are not sure which one to go for yet.

That'll be mine - I live on the edge of Egham, but am in the middle of a house move at the mo. Where abouts did you see me?

Not sure why you haven't had an answer to this but to be honest I'm struggling to follow what you are doing (maybe that's the reason). Some pics might help. With regards to earthing, on my lambda sensor connector the earth is directly to some adjacent metal work, it doesn't go anywhere else.