JMC

Excellent, about time we had another RR day :). Put me down for a run please.

As it says in the title, I have a black plastic passenger side dash undertray which is free for anyone wanting to come and collect it (I'm near J13 of the M25). Sorry guys, not going to post this one. Putting this in here rather than classifieds as it's a freebie. Please reply in the thread first if your interested (ah, memories of the old for sale threads....).

It is definately noisier than leaving it in there. To be honest if you like quiet cars you don't get a G60 :lol:

Yep, I've had a few people who have sent me empty PM's regarding items I have for sale. I always write back and start any sales that way.

Yes it can be done, and one mine it definately did have a good effect. I did back to back dyno runs with a normal airbox and then one with the snorket removed and gains a few extra horses with it removed, along with better low down torque from memory. On the G60 the hole is very restrictive, butting up close against the back of the headlight. Removing the snorkel makes for an easier air flow. Of course, mine needs lightly more than a standad G60 tho, lol. Oh and absolutely stick with a standard filter - fine for atleast 250bhp (not tried it beyond that...).

I also have a black one - whereabouts are you i que?

I'm using a VR6 one on my 1.9l G60 and haven't had any issues with it (currently running 250bhp and 220lbft).

If you want something fairly unique, why not turbo your 16v? Not many of those around and they have the potential to generate good power.

Carefully when cold. Try not to get it past 3000rpm until the oil's at 70 degrees. Bouncing off the rev limiter is not a good idea. Make sure it's serviced at the right intervals, which is dependant on pulley size.

There is a thread on here from the early days of the forum which has a diagram on it of what pipes need disconnecting. Like EO mine was done when I got it so I can't say for certain what you need to remove. Of course it depends on how original you want it - originally it had the carbon cannister. Are you near to the south coast - best thing is to go along to someone like Gwerks or JMR (John Mitchell Racing) and get them to remove it all, or atleast have them watch while you remove it.

Just to add to EO's comment. You have a pipe going from the breather on the rocker cover to the right hand side of the charger. Normally there would be a hard plastic pipe from the underside of the throttle body, coming round past the breather (and connecting to it) coming all the way to the front of the engine bay and attaching to the charger on th right hand side. At the moment the bottom of your thottle body will be open to the atmosphere. On idle air passes over a small pipe in the bottom of the throttle body (which has that lenght of tube with a bolt in it) and then out a big hole in the bottom of the throttle, as you grip the pipe with the bolt in it you change its length and as air passes over it it makes a different noise. Personally I have tried this mod, it made no difference to my power and just annoyed me with the constant whistle on part throttle Oddly enough you still have a load of the piepwork associated with the carbon canister, even though the pipe at the top is blanked off with a bolt.... Also running an induction filter without a heatshield wont be doing you any favours as it'll be picking up warm air from the engine bay.

I am presuming that's a G60, and if so the carbon cannister will have been removed along with all the associated pipework. Neatens up the engine bay hugely, and to be honest is a good thing to remove as it removes loads of potential leak points. This is the common way of blocking off the tube coming from the rear of the underside of the throttle body. G60's shouldn't have dump valves, do you have any wider pictures of the whole bay so we can see what else has been chnaged (most likely the boost return has been blanked off).

Personally, having got a carbon bonnet, I'd like to see some other weight saving parts rather than just bling parts. Late front wings would be good even being quite a small weight saving, but given they are getting harder to find it would be great to have another source. There was a recent group buy feeler regarding carbon tailgates, but cost brought that one to an end - if this come back sufficiently cheaper then it'll open it up to a lot more people. Oh and of course, anything else that's obsolete as well....

Other than any hoses leaking, problems with idling fuelling suggest 1) ISV (probe and wiring - wires often go brittle and break given close proximity to the head), 2) lambda probe - check the wiring to and from as well as replacing the probe, you should be getting a signal flip flopping between 0 and 1 V once or twice a second on idle when warm, 3) CO pot - wrong resistance when warm will cause it to run rich or lean at idle, 4) blue temp sensor, 5) idle screw on back of throttle body. If it is working proeprly the almbda should be able to correct for minor fuelling issues when warm, which is why I'd be leaning towards the wiring for the lambda as you've already changed the probe itself. Also CO pot needs setting up when the chip gets changed, so has that been done?

I have a carbon and fibreglass one and the finish is pretty good to be fair. The biggest issue you'll have is what to do with the washer nozzles. I got some mk4 golf ones and fitted them on the underside of the trailing edge. Much better than cutting into the top of you nice new bonnet, although I am glad Performance Trim did it for me while I was down there - wouldn't have fancied cutting those holes myself, lol.

Thanks guys. Mine used to open/lock everything on the 1st turn on both the passenger and drivers side. Now it just does that on the passenger side. Tried the 2 turns thing as well on the driver side and nothing - doesn't work. Next time I have the door apart will try bridging the wires and see what that does then, and will check for breaks in the wires. One thing I did notice today, if I just unlock the drivers door, and then go for a drive, the passenger door also unlocks by itself. What causes that?

Right, I have an issue with my central locking, and before I bang my head about it any more I want to get some advice please. I had the drivers door handle fail on me a while ago (not the usual striker pin but metal fatigue in another part). I replaced that with a second hand one, but then the central locking would no longer operate from the drivers side. The key on the drivers door only unlocked the drivers door. On the passenger side if I used the key in the door it locked/unlocked everything as it should do. I presumed it was the switch in the replacement door handle, so I buy another one, and lo and behold the same problem - using the switch on the drivers door dos not operate the central locking. If I use the alarm button on the fob, that locks/unlocks everything as it should (including the drivers door). Question is, is this likely to be a fault with the electrical system or the central locking pump on the drivers side, as it doesn't seem to be door handle related? Any advice gratefully received please folks.

Yeah, much easier if you can get a separate one to work on Alex. Having done it I think the effects are small, but if you have done alot of other work on the engine an intake system then it makes sense to do.

I did it over a couple fo weekends Alex as I had a spare throttle body using a dremel and a metal rasp for the rough shaping. For polishing I used a polishing mop and 3 different grades of polsihing compound (from Froosts auto restorers).

Thats ok, thanks for letting me know.

Ok mate - will keep an eye on the thread then. On the plus side - when your first one comes up you'll have a spare :lol:

I have one of the pipes which goes from the breather back to the boost reurn pipe - £9 posted if you're interested. I may even have a boost return pipe at home - will check tonight.

Sure mate, just let me know when you want payment :)

Ok sounds good - drop me a PM with payment details and if you can let me know roughly when you think you'll be able to post that would be great. Thanks.

How much for the drivers side door handle please? A couple of questions about it though - does it have a lock (I'm not after a delocked one), and does the central locking work? Thanks.