JMC

According to this (from a google search).... http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=piston+%2292+021+610%22&meta=&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai= They are 81.26mm - and it looks as though they are one size above standard for a PG engine.

No, normally a bigger change than that (between ambient and operating temp).

Yep, 45mph for my spoiler :lol:

Absolutely - my MOT guy always checks for the light coming on and then going off again a few seconds later to make sure it's all working alright.

It would make sense, but do you really think it's a simple as that Kev? Replacing the bulbs isn't a problem though even for someone with basic soldering skills - there was even someone on here a while back selling the right bulbs for that. Offer still stands folks, if anyone has a broken one you don't need, I'm happy to take a look and see if it's easily fixable.

Oh right, so the numbers of these being needed is simply down to the number of vehicles with them. As mine has ABS I assumed it was quite common in the early ones. Still strange how they fail so often though - there's nothing mechanical in there, so it must be an electrical failure.

Big thing in the US - most cities have them there, and have seen a few over here. Good idea IMHO.

There always seems to be a thread on here about people wanting late ABS lights. It's got me wondering as to why these are so prone to failing (there are very few request for early ABS lights) and whether they can be fixed? Has anyone every taken one apart? I do a bit of electronics and would be happy to take a look if anyone has a broken one.

Thanks to CazzaVR, radojunkie, jonny-5 and Dude VR6 for all the parts. All great to deal with, and can definately recommend :D

Did you try these guys - they deliver to the UK? http://www.ripcaclassic.com/epages/091202.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/091202/Products/202552-10 Also within the UK, these guys http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/relays/relays.php Looks like R40B (£2 ea) is the one you need but best to check with them.

:clap:

Well, I fixed it. It was the passenger ABS sensor. Got a replacment for ebay for £15. After a mishap at the weekend where I tried to use ramps to get the car up on (bad idea - ripped the front splitter :censored: ). I got the car up on blocks today (makeshift axle stands). The old sensor was a :bad-words: to get out (see attached). 4 pieces eventually as the metal had rusted to the hub. The the new one was a bloody tight fit too. Has gone in though and seems to have cured the problem :clap: . Will check the fixing of it in a few days when everything has had chance to have a run in and make sure the bolt is still tight.

I didnt see your post untill just now, I take it I adjust it off the car? its reading 37ohms at the moment, no blue cap just a hole with a big black flat head screw in it. When you checked your resistnce, did you do that hot? The 500 ohm recommendation is when the car is up to temp. Adjust it when the car is up to temp mate.

Right that's good to know you're worrking on a mk1 not a Rado - hadn't seen that. You're welcome, and good luck with it.

Apparently at position 4 and has 18 written on it. http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=77542&hilit=load+relief+relay

Load relief (or X relief) relay gives problems like this. Cuts power to certain key areas during cranking, and then fails to reconnect them afterwards.

There's also the issue witht BBM kits being for LHD drive cars. On RHD there is issue with either the clutch or brake setup getting in the way (can't remember which). Have a word with Yandards or Dirtytorque on here - they've both done one and might have some hints. Injector wise I'm using red tops on my 8V G60, and am putting out about 250bhp (1.9l conversion and somewhat fettled). Any higher than that and you'll need bigger injectors as I'm pretty much at max. Most people then jump up to 440cc ones, but that is a massive leap in size. Apparently there are some Saab Turbo ones that flow approx 370-380cc which would probably be ideal, but no one seems to know more about them when I ask further.

No worries, and keep us posted. Good to see such a high mileage G60 still going strong :D

Fans not kicking in early enough could be the thermoswitch in the rad (as you look at it from the top it is on the right hand side of the rad). Also could be the fuse in the fan control unit - should be a box towards the back right side of the engine bay, attached to the suspension tower. There is a flip up clear plastic section on one end - check the fuse in there - if it breaks the 1st stage of the fan wont kick in (at least it didn't on mine). The fan are 2 stage - it should come on half speed around 95C and then full spead around 105C from memory.

Not sure on the rest mate but the ISV ending in 457D is the G60 one, however it was also used on early 1.8l 16v ones as well. 457C is from the 2l 8v engine. Track down a 457D one.

One thing I would advice doing fairly quickly is a separate oil cooler. Gets rid of that awful oil/water mixer on the front of the block, and helps keep oil temps stable which is good for the charger. Also if yours still have the black plastic box on the outlet of the charger, get that swapped for an RSR outlet as those plastic boxes are often sources of boost leaks (especially if you are running a smaller pulley). You can increase induction noise a bit and get some more cold air in by modding the airbox, but stick with the stock paper filter. Also again, if not removed already, all the carbon cannister stuff can be got rid of now. Tidies up the engine bay and removes losts of little pipes that can leak.

Yep, the standard intercooler are crap. Air flow can be improved by cutting holes in the passenger wheel arch. Atleast that wayh the air does not stagnate behind the intercooler. Have a search on here as there are a few pics from a few years back. Boost return is a love ot or loath it. I tried it for a while and went back to standard. I couldn't feel any difference, and the constant whistle off boost was really annoying especially on the motorway. Also you need to think about a way of capturing the oil vapour from the isv and rocker cover, otherwise the whole engine bay gets covered. Depending on where you are I would strongly recommend a trip to G-werks to let them give it a once over (they are in Littlehampton on the south coast). Also if you are happy to open up the ECU check who did the chip you have - some are better than others (Jabba's ones for instance tend to run rich). The chips make a huge difference on these.

"One Eyed Monster" on the Horror channel the other night. 3/10, purely for the comedy value of a killer pen1s going on a rampage.

Ok, so you've not put the bigger pulley back on then. To be honest, you probably would be disappointed with the standard setup - depends what you are used to driving. G60's are specialised. Mine was 'mechanic owned' and after a trip to G-werks it made me realise that is worth dealing with a specialist for these cars. Good coilies will transform these (KW variant 1 for example), as will ARB's. Also if you want more poke from the engine, save up for a ported and flowed head, front mounted IC, and 4 branch manifold. With a remap you'll be pushing 210bhp then.

Amazing to see a G60 with that many miles :lol: . Joking aside, if it had a smaller pulley, it should have been mapped to that pulley size. If you are now running a larger pulley and haven't changed the chip, the map will be too rich when on boost. Chips and pulleys need to be changed at the same time.