JMC

Looking really good Rob - is that a light on the centre consol just below the gearstick?

I came across colour change leds while hunting around and thought I would post it up. These cycle between blue, red and green, again and again, and I managed to find a video of what they look like (down near the bottom of this link)... http://www.dansdata.com/gz065.htm Now I know this will be very polarising - some will love it some will hate it, but I can do switches with these if anyone is interested :D Just to let everyone know I a still working on a early slider heater prototype. At the moment (as you can see from a few post back) it lights up fine, but I need to tweked the mounting of it - at the moment the wires seem to be catching on the plastic of the dash. Will keep you all posted.

Cheers mate. This would work well with the old icon sheet if people want to keep the original green illumination too, so could be seen as just a standard upgrade to the typical lighting setup.

Cheers Tim. Nooooo, it is not just a bulb replacement. It took about 4 hours work to do that in total. The power socket needs modifying to accept wires for the leds. There are 8 leds mounted in the back of the heater control, then white paper (acts as a diffuser), and then custom made icons sheets. Attached below is a pic of the back of it, and I did a lot to make it nice and neat. Being realistic these are going to be £30 plus postage, and like the switches it will have to be a case of sending them in for modding. For that though I will work with people to get the colour scheme they want for the icons sheets.

I have had a go at making an early heater control and tried it in the car (see below). Nice even illumination - please excuse the wobbly picture, never easy taking pics in the dark. The only issue at the moment is that it only really works when the dimmer is set to full power (the leds are less tolerant of low voltages than bulbs are). What do people normally do - do they run this on full power, or dipped most of the time? Anyway, and feedback would be good folks.

Cool, glad you like them Andy :D The LEDs give a more intense blue than I was expecting - it's really vibrant.

Woo hoo, blue and white leds have arrived, so I can start on the heater controls and anyone who wants blue (or white)switches :D

Funnily enough, my local garage made something similar when I couldn't get into mine a couple fo years ago. Now mines the same, I have to push it back before I close the bonnet. Time for a big spring I think...

That is such a nice looking and well specced car Dom :D. The Alpine Audessey stuff is very good, but needs real expert setting up to get the best out of it. I toyed with the idea, of fitting the 9887 headunit in mine, but even with soundproofing the background noise of a G60 doesn't warrant me changing any of my stereo stuff for better quality. Have a look on the talkaudio forum for a bit more info on it.

Will do Ian. When the LEDs arrive I'll have a play and see how it looks. I get the feeling it will be quite complex as it needs lots of light, but evenly distributed, but I definately think it will 100x better than the original. If you have a custom colour scheme in mind then that shouldn't be a problem either - I'll pm you one of the low res designs I have later and you can see what you think of the colours.

Wow that does look really great :D If you're interested I can recolour the illumination on all your switches to white to match your body work...

presmuned that would be the case :( but thanks for checking...

Not when its under pressure in your cooling system. Because its a sealed system, under pressure the water can go much higher (My VR has hit 120deg+ on track with no loss of coolant etc). Think of camping stove gas being a liquid in a gas bottle at room temperature cos its under pressure, normally at room temp its a gas. The pressure is controlled by the temp (fans and radiator keep that down) and if the pressure gets too high (i.e. the temp is uncontrlled - fan failure or blockage) the header tank cap has a valve in that will release excess pressure (you experienced this). I'd whip your thermostat off and put it in a pan of water. It should pop open before the water boils. Whilst its off use a hose to flush all the water system out of every orifice pf the radiator and block. Straight water is fine to use as coolant for short periods. All coolant does is add corrosion resistance and reduces the freezing point of the water. It does raise the SHC of the water a little, but not drastically. Jon, you should have known that one :nono: I seem to recall reading somewhere that the coolant also contain surfactants which help the solution wet out the surfaces of the pipes within the radiator. Unless you get good wetting, you can't get good thermal transfer so while the heat capacity of pure water is great, it's not the best for use in a rad by itself.

Just a quick update for anyone wanting work done, blue LEDs should be arrriving this week. Also ordered some diffuse whites, so I'll be seeing how they work with the early heater controls :D

Looks really good :) always have had a bit of a soft spot for the mk3 VR6, and with that list of plans, that'll make it into a really fun beast.

I'd be interested in seeign a pic too please - mine does this, but I'd assumed it was normal as it's always done it :lol:

Out of interest, does anyone know whether the G60 is covered in one of the Golf Haynes manuals??

Good to hear you've got her pulling to the redline now Jon :D

That is weird - as you say no change in engine tone, so its not reflecting a true change in idling speed. Must be an electrical fault of the dodgy connection kind. Hmmm.... BTW - DDI dials look good mate ;) EDIT - maybe this is of some use http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=60630&hilit=rev+needle+g60

So near Dec - looking forward to seeing this one running :)

I'm with you there mate, but they must have their reasons :shrug: . I was pushing to get mine ceramic coated before fitting before I even thought about wrapping it, but even that didn't happen (not happy with the longevity of the finish apparently). To me that would have been the best solution - keep the heat in, keep the gasses flowing quickly, reduce the thermal stress on the metal, and keep the engine bay temps down.

Yep, using a standard air box. With a cold air feed coming up through where the carbon canister was and into the bottom of the box (the box has been opened out slightly just to let the air feed in). I've got a picture somewhere in this thread (back around p5 I think). The ss manifold isn't wrapped - G-werks will not honour their warranty if it is wrapped. Basically there are concerns about them getting so hot when wrapped that they fail. I like the idea of the thermal insulator, however my main concern at the back of the bay, is that with or without insulators the air temp through convection will be very high anyway as there is little to promote airflow back there. I've been thinking along the lines of Kev and Jons posts around venting somewhere on the bonnet to get air round the inlet. The water injection should help as well, as will the nitrous if that gets done 8) in fact if I do go nitrous, then I'll need some air flow back there anyway to keep the nozzles as cool as possible.

Your torque curve with the bonnet up looks very like mine. I would have thought knock was more likely with the bonnet down - isn't it temperature related (more prone at higher temps)? If it's knocking can you get any more fuel in at the top end through tweaking the map - that would help.

Cheers Kev, thats me always the scientist :D Yep, the scavenging at the top end was my thought too. Interesting to look at the boost pressure during the 2 runs as well (as attached below). In the colder situation it reaches peak boost much earlier (hence the massively enhanced torque curve). This presumably could be to do with, heat soak in the intercooler, hot air recirc through the charger and pipework, or the fact that the piepwork is hot in general. I think alot of this is academic though - persoanlly I think real driving conditions will be somewhere in between these two sceanrios as there will be a lot more air flow than you get at a dyno. As you say though, the ideal situation would be a vent over the inlet side, but I would also say some heat decent shielding between the exhaust manifold and inlet manifold.

AIr filter in the normal position, but a cold air feed from the grill in the lower part of the front bumper and air box has been cut open to let that cold air in easier.