JMC

Well my new parts have turned up :D 5lb Wizards of Nos bottle, bottle warmer, installation kit, Max Extreme Race edition progressive controller, fuel pressure transducer and nitrous pressure transducer. Now I just have to figure out how it all fits together :lol: Could keep me going for a bit I think.

Glad you like them Tom - pics please - want to see how they look in your car :D

First thoughts would be to blown oil seal in the charger... Can you check the boost pressure (or the oil pressure for that matter)?? Also take the boost pipes off and check for oil in there.

Oooh, I like those :D

Another quick update folks. Now in full swing doing led and EL sheet versions of the early heater controls. I tried the EL sheet with the original icon sheet and I think it looks fab :D and of course would be totally stock in appearance. I can do these for the same price as the custom ones as outlined above if anyone is interested.

Few options. Dealers (very expensive). Generic from Halfords etc and stick them over the original ones. Blue tint ones (from DDI in Canada which quite few have on here). TVR - apparently some of the TVRs have the same mirrors and it used to be the case that they were cheaper to buy through TVR than VW.

Thats OK mate :D Removing the glass is a bit of a delicate operation. On mine, I put a strip of thick tape along the bottom and top of the mirror, and then slip a wide bit of springy metal (i use a metal ruler) between the mirror and mirror housing, and gradually lever it foward. The mirror then pops out, but it is a bit unpleasant the first time you try it as it feels as though you are going to crack the mirror. Trick is be firm but gentle :norty:

You only have one motor in each wing mirror. The clutch determines whether it moves 'left right' or 'up down'. And rewiring the motors is not a bad job - takes about 15mins on each side to do that.

Should be able to tell you what it's like in a G60 in a couple of months when mines fitted :D

It lightens the transparent section on the knob, but not as much as it lightens everything else. It is perfectly visible when the interior is fully dark though. Obviously though the sliders themselves aren't illuminated as standard, so you're relaying on ambient light for those :( Fluorescent paint may work here :shrug:

Hi Tom, I'll PM you the plan for the controls, just to see if I have everything right :D As for the lighter illumination, mine was actualy off a Mk4 golf (which is orange/red as standard) and I replaced the bulb with a red led. I did this so I could fit the Tourag torch in there (they don't fit in the standard lighter sockets as they are too big a diameter). To do blue you'd need to find either a clear or a blue one as any hint or red/green/orange etc is just going to throw it off blue.

Good luck with it Tom - if you are happy to open it up then the bulb could just have blown or one of the contacts come loose. Either way it will be fixable.

Late style ones should illuminated - green. There is a bulb in there. I do some work replacing switch gear illumination so let me know if you want them fixing :D

Sounds like a hell of day :lol: Good to see another G60 being saved :clap:

Been a while since I posted, so I thought it was time for an update. I got my Piper cam changed for a Schrick cam, had it mapped and it made 10% less power and 10% worse economy. Nice. So went back to my old chip, advanced the timing 3 degress on Darrens recomemndation and it feels more like it did before. No the chalk and cheese difference I was expecting to be honest, more a sobering realisation about claims behind what 'power adders' can actually do. Not bothered talking it for a RR assessment as to be honest I've wasted enough on trying to get this setup optimised. It seem to be running alright at the mo so am leaving it alone. Enough of that annoying stuff. I've been playing around with EL sheet for the old style heater controls (as KipVR has done for the later ones) and wow am I chuffed. Below is a pic of the result - x1000 better than the original. I am offering modification of peoples control, if you fancy having them done (see my bit in the suppliers section). Also tried an LED version which is still a massive improvement over the original but cheaper. Been fun playing around with this sort of stuff again :D

Just been out and took a picture of the EL sheet version of my heater control design and boy am I chuffed :D. It isn't as bright as the LED version (see a couple of pages back for comparison), but does dim gradually like the bulbs. I need to readjust my x100 better in the last post - more like a x1000 better :lol: . Also this one is running off the spare output of the DDI so there is no need for its own inverter. Anyway, I'm now able to take orders on both styles folks...

Right folks a quick update on the early heater controls situation... I've been looking at 2 ways of illuminating these. Firstly the LED route, and secondly using electroluminescent (EL) sheet like on the DDI dials (and as KipVR has done for the later style controls). [strike:29g92z2f]I've made and tested the LED version. Good points - 50x better than the original, doesn't require any extra wiring, relatively cheap to do. Bad points - only works when the variable illumination is set to it's highest value, or just off it (i.e. it doesn't dim gradually in the same way that a light bulb will), needs very slight modification to the plastic behind the control to allow the wires to clear (few mm removal thats all).[/strike:29g92z2f] UPDATE - Given the time to make these I will no longer be offering the LED versions as of Mar 09. I've got the EL sheet, and will be mocking up a heater control with it in the next few days. Good points - 100x better than the original, dims like a light bulb and has very even illumination, works off the DDI inverter if you already have DDI dials (so no need for another inverter). Bad points - cost (alot more expensive than the LED route), not just plug and play if you need to wire in the inverter (not difficult but you'll need to snip and solder a couple of wires), also if you haven't got the DDI dials you have the extra cost of the inverter (included in the pricing below). Now don't get me wrong here, the bad points are very minor, but I wanted people to be aware of the differences. As for costs - given the work involved you're looking at the following (but bear in mind you'll get custom colours on the icon sheet for this)... [strike:29g92z2f]LED version - £30[/strike:29g92z2f] EL sheet version (without inverter) - £50 EL version with inverter - £60 Postage is extra but will be at cost (couple of quid). As with the switches it is a case of shipping your controls to me and then I can turn them round in a couple of days. Drop me a PM if you have any questions :D

Shaggy is selling one in the parts for sale section at the moment....

Ok, cheers Matt.

Funnily enough I can - I have in some green leds for another job so can do those. They will definately be brighter than the original ones as these LEDs are pretty good. If you're interested, drop me a PM and I can give you my details....

Thanks for the links through to my thread guys. Drop me a line red rado and we can have a chat, if you want to talk through whats possible...

Maybe, if you can find me more hours in the day :lol:

Chances are this will get moved as its a supplier question (que mods). Try Greg at Southam Bodies. He did my bumper work, and is very, very good.

Cool, cheers for the feedback Stefan :D

Indeed guys. One thing I have done today is ordered an EL sheet (as outlined in Kips thread). The idea here is that it could run off the spare output from the DDI gauges if you have them (cuts down on wiring and bulk). I will also see how that works out. I am going to be away for a bit now, but will update on the heater controls when I get back.