JMC

You can always go for the Dub Design Industries blue tinted convex ones... http://www.dubdesignindustries.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=258 They did a group buy on these a while ago so a few people on here have got them 8)

Thats OK Leonard - just thought I would check. You can do Kempy - however most of the cost is just to cover the time to do it really. Some switches are more time consuming than others (and some require 12v leds and others 2v, and some are even done best with coloured bulbs etc), but as most people are wanting whole interiors doing, then this all averages out. Please PM me if you want to discuss further and I'll see what I can do.

Thnaks mate. Is the stereo just green - or is it green with amber, green with blue etc? It's always possible to do some switches to match mixed colour schemes.

After changing my own interior illumination on my G60 to red to bring it up to date, I decided that I would offer this to anyone wanting it done. I have done some work for folks on here more by word of mouth than anything, so thought I would put up a thread offering my services. While the ones I have done have been in red, I can change the illumination on early or later Corrado, to anything I can find the right LED's and bulbs for. The cost £5 per switch (plus a couple of quid postage), and when you send them through to me I can turn them around in a couple of days. Below are a couple of examples of ones I have done. Also, I am happy to discuss any specific needs you might have (changing the heater controls colour for example). Colours available, red, blue, green (yes brighter green), white, colour cycling (trippy) - or ask if you want something else. Update: Late fog, demister and headlight are red/green/yellow/orange etc only round the edge, I can't do a blue ring. I can still to the icon in the middle in blue though :D Sorry guys, this seems to be a factor of how the switches are made and is really annoying (can't dismantle the switch and remove the coloured filter without destroying it) :( Also, given the extra work in colour changing 2 parts these are £8 per switch (just for these late style ones) If you are interested drop me a PM. Thanks EDIT - Sorry folks but I'm not currently taking orders for new switches (as of August 09)

Ok mate, let me know when you get back :D

Try and find a Golf G60 one - the Rallye one requires some body work to fit, but the Golf one just slots straight in there. As DanVW says though 250-300 out of a G60 takes some going.... I have a 1.9, with a stage 4 charger, Golf G60 FMIC, 4 branch, etc, etc, and I am generating 233 at the mo. With the Schrick cam and another remap I hope to push this to 250. Further than that you are looking at a BBM charger, or larger capacity or 16vG60, etc, etc. As for opinion on the rad/intercooler in one - ring em up and ask them for instances of when it's been used. If they are reputable they will be honest with you. To be honest even in the FMIC and separate rad one is directly behind the other anyway.

No interest at all in these then - bit surprised, but heh thought I would check...

Cors' mate, just drop me a PM if you plan on being in the area....

Because Charlie is lazy mate, and doesn't like getting underneath the car :lol: . To be honest it's just easier for him to do that. When it's mapped we replace the standard narrow band with a wideband, so I know thats done right, but for the dyno runs, I just need a good indication more than anything else. If anything it is running a little rich around 4800 now, but with a Schrick going on in the next few weeks (along with WI) , everything will need doing again anyway. And yep, it is a 92 G60. If you fancy a trip over from Reading let me know, I'm about 25mins away :D

Here you go. Bear in mind though, this is an 'up the tail pipe' AFR reading, and Charlie kept having problems with me blowing it out the end :lol: so basically ignore where it goes really lean after 6500.

I took the card off to do it mate. It was a bit of 'put the handle on, see where it sticks, remove, dremel a bit out, put it back,...'. Much, much easier to do with the card off. Took me about 10mins to do each side, and then 10-15mins to take each door card off and on, so not too bad really.

Cheers guys.. Should be getting the Schrick cam before too long (if all goes to plan). Also will be playing with water injection, and if I can save enough and decide to take the plunge there will be further chemical playtime, perhaps involving an extra cylinder of something, so will hopefully provide more interesting reading down the line.....

Mine were the same. I attacked the plastic of the surround with a dremel and removed just enough for them to sit flush.

Check down at the bottom of this Wayne.... http://www.the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php?title=The_Corrado_Buying_Guide_%26_Checklist Hope it helps

As the title says really. After porting and flowing my thottle, I was wondering whether any G60 owners would be interested in having the inlets to their throttle bodies flowed/ported?? If you've looked at the inlet there is a thick lip on the edge of the inlet which does not do anything for air flow. Also there is a shoulder about an inch inside which again makes for poor air flow. I can flow the inlet, and remove most of this shoulder, and smooth out the inside of the body. Below is a pic of one in the process of being done at the moment, just ready to be smoothed.... If there is any interest in getting it done, I can offer this flowing services for £25 (along with the inlet side of your thottle body to be returned to me when you have swapped them over). Also I can remove the tube going to the carbon cannister if you've had yours taken out (saves the need to have a length of tubing with a bolt in the end to seal the gap). Let me know if you're interested :D

Good to hear you got the box changed Wayne. Have you tried measuring the boost pressure using the MFA?

One thing I forgot to mention.... A few pages ago I put this up, wondering why the 1st run was so different to the subsequent runs. While I was at the rolling road we did some runs with the bonnet up as opposed to the usual bonnet down. Raising the bonnet resulted in this '1st run' type of behaviour again and again and again. Basically the torque curve changes completely (gaining as much as 20lbft lower down in the revs) and the peak power drops by 5-10bhp. When I get the data from Charlie I'll do my usual graph plots an put them up. But it just goes to show how important it is to consider cooling and air flow are when tuning your engine (and measuring its output).

Interesting BigTartanJudge, never seen the RR printout displayed like that. How's that drag line calculated then? I would have expected more at the wheels given your 'at the flywheel' value, but as you say, that could be down to choice of wheels and and old gearbox. Pretty impressive for standard bottom end. Mines a 1.9 but I am only running a 68mm pulley. The curves are interesting as well - what causes that bump around 2500rpm?

I would have said 90 or 70, depends on the stat you have really. 20mins is more than enough time to get up to temp.

Cheers BigTartanJudge. At the wheels values are 196bhp and 170lbft. Interested to hear how you get on withthe water injection - I have one of the Schimmel systems from the recent group buy waiting to go on. Been chatting more with Darren and the Schrick cam is definately the way to go. What at the wheels values were you getting then?

Just seen these, and I must admit I do like the look of them. Can see how some the purists might take offence though :lol:

PM'd you - I have some relays for sale :)

Yes Walesy, it is fun 8) Cheers for the info mrbeige, I was having a look through the Piper website last night and trying to figure out from the receipts I've got exactly which cam the previous owner fitted. It looks to be a 285H, which for some reason is a symmetric 268 (why not call it a 268 :shrug: ). Had a bit of a chat with Darren and it seems the Schrick is the way to go. So I think I know what the next thing to be done wil be....

As requested...

Was down at G-werks at the weekend and went out on the road for a live mapping session with Steve and have just now had a rolling road session at Surrey Rolling Road (thanks Charlie) to see the results. Now making 233bhp at 6400rpm, over 200lbft from 4800-5800 :clap: . Charlies opinion was that was more in there, but that the cam wasn't optimal for the setup. Has anyone with a G-werks 1.9 conversion and a Schrick Cam got any dyno plots please :D I'm intrigued to see how they perform at the top end...