JMC

Getting there slowly Jon. Still need the optimized map (come on Steve.....). And have ordered one of the methanol/water kits from the group buy. Should be fun 8)

Just been out (in the swetlering heat) and cleaned and polished the car. First time I've tried Meguiars Gold Class shampoo, and it was very impressive. So, a couple of pictures of general niceness :D :D

Oh, absolutely. But what it des highlight is the fact the 'good for one' is not always 'good for all'. Out of interest, anyone getting good things from a BMC on a G60?

You're not the only one mate - we redid it a couple of times to make sure as well. Suppose the moral of the story - don't always believe the hype...

Here's an interesting one for you guys. I was down at G-Werks at the weekend chatting with Darren and we got on to the topic of air filters. He mentioned that the standard paper air filters were better than the K&N's as the K&N panel filters actually hurt air flow. Well I decided to put this to the test (being a geeky scientist) on sunday. Went down to see Charlie at Surrey Rolling Road, and compared K&N panel filter and standard paper filter on my G60. Basically they performed the same until 5000rpm (with the K&N perhap 1bhp better) then after that the paper filter actually performed better. And not just small amounts either - there was a 6bhp difference at the most extreme point, and these were repeated over a few runs (022 is with the K&N panel liter and 024 with the standard paper air filter). As per usual Dr D was right, although this one is somewhat counterintiutive...

Not sure really :shrug: . AFAIK spark plug temperature needs to be changed if there are large changes in boost pressure for one thing. Mine hasn't changed really - I'm flowing alot more air but at similar pressures, so that shouldn't affect it. Also they need changing with nitrous, but again not done that (yet, anyway :lol: ).

Strangely enough fixing all the leaks in the exhaust had absolutely no effect on power or torque. Looking at the exhaust though it goes quite narrow in places, and I suspect it is now becoming the weakest link in the chain. Oh, how I would love to have my own rolling road..... Yep, still using standard sparkplugs dirtytorque, and they are 4 years old now (still on the original leads as well as far as I know).

No, still waiting on Steve to rewrite the map. However I have had all the exhaust leaks fixed, and it now sounds really sweet :D . Was down at G-Werks yesterday, and a chap rolled up in a Jet for some work - never seen one of those in the flesh before (funky interior). Out of interest will repairing a very blowy exhaust affect power/torque, it's just that whenever I get my exhaust patched/holes fixed it seems more powerful :shrug: ?

I take it yours is a late style switch (as you mention VR6 in your name). It should be possible to replace the bulb and swap it for an LED. I've done with loads of early style switches, so I can't see why you couldn't with a late style switch. Have a search on here for people changing the colour of their illumination, that should bring something up.

Big thank you do Davidwort for the parts :D

Thanks Trakz. Having spent quite a bit of time with Darren while this was being built, we did talk about the Schrick cam as opposed to my old Piper 285. The head has had a lot of work done to the exhaust valves, which will (fingers crossed) make up for the Piper being used. But as you say, it does make me realise how good my old head was (and how someone else got a bargain when I sold it). I have not done any manifold work. It is currently running a G-Werks 4 branch exhaust manifold, and standard inlet manifold. Flusted has taken his inlet manifold apart to flow it,if you want to have a look on his gallery. Just waiting for the retuned map now, so fingers crossed for that making a bit more :clap:

Nope, but I am willing to go with gut feeling on this one. The old 7 slat was only open for about half of its surface area, and the gaps were small. The 3 slat has much wider gaps, and much less solid surface area. Ergo better flow. Also and it is rather empirical, with the fan running, when I put my hand in front of the grill, I feel more air being pulled past with the 3 slat to the 7 slat. Yes, I am that sad :grin:

That was my thought exactly Kev :lol: looks like it has just stuck it's head out of the water....

I've got Boxster brakes with AP421 pads and 315mm discs on my G60, but have never changed the master cylinder (still the originl G60 one). Now, don't get me wrong they are good brakes, but I get the feeling they should be better (they are not the soooper doooper amazing ones other people seem to rave about), and I have read about people changing the master cylinders for bigger diameter ones when putting on bigger brakes... Is this where I ahev gone wrong :shrug:

Cheers for the info Yan - stil can't believe Amazon don't have it new (but whsmith do :shrug: ). Anyway, I digress. Finally got my 3 slat grill, and it now makes the front of the car look very different.... Not 100% sure (the fogs and indicators look out of place now), but it is definately better than the old 7 slat i had on there. And it will definately let more air in 8)

What a great project :notworthy: and good to see nice smooth dyno plots as well - sign of a well set up system 8)

Cheers for the advice folks. It is intermittent. If I blip the throttle it will retun back easier, but if I adrive around with it in one position for a while then it will usualy be a bit sticky. Would this point to one thing over the other then?

Thanks Yan, that's the one I saw on Amazon for about 10 times the cost :shock: Must see whether I can get it for less somewhere (without shipping from the US).

... you have a sticky throttle cable or a sticky throttle body? I've noticed on my G60 that after I take my foot off the accelerator it takes a second or so for the speed to start dropping, and it feels lieks the throttle is staying on, so I'm thinking sticky cable or sticky throttle body. Any thoughts anyone :shrug:

Er, that might do it too... Reading a good book on inlet and exhaust manifold design at the moment that covers the effects of gas temp etc, would recommend it to you as it is full of equations and wave form patterns etc but is enlightening; the scientific design of intake and exhaust manifolds - a bentley title but amazon usually have a copy. Yeah, I know, Mr Memory here had forgotten about that... Whats the book called then Yan - the only Bentley one I can find is about £150 on Amazon, or $29.95 from Bentley - bit of a mismatch there :shrug: ??

Wow, thats really cool. Where about is it - our head office is Cincinnati and I usually get over there 2 or 3 times a year?

I've had the Golf FMIC for ages Yan, so that hasn't changed. Could be something to do with the charger rebuild I had 6 months ago tho and had forgotten about :oops: . Right I'll go back to my little hole now :nuts:

Hello mate - I've found my rear quarter cards (after finding some grey ones I never knew I had :lol: ). They look fine apart from being a bit grubby, and a little damage one the pointy bits towards the front where the board has snapped, however that is nothing a little glue wouldn't cure. If you're interested you can have them for the price of a gallon of fuel :D if you can collect. You can see how my respraying turned out for yourself then.

I'll see what I can rustle up tomorrow mate :D

I've resprayed the headlining with fabric paint, so it should 'in theory' work for the door cards. I stress the 'in theory' part, and the finish is good but not great. Given the amount you need though to get a good finish it'd be cheaper to get replacement cards. Check the for sale section for ones being broken as they come up quite often... Also I do believe somewhere I have a couple of rear quarter ones in black - where abouts are you based??