JMC
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Everything posted by JMC
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Ok, thats a pretty impressive list :D . As coolrado said, oil cooler is a definate if you don't already have one. The other thing that springs to mind is red top injectors - you're not still running the standard injectors are you? And with all that I would recommend you get a custom mapped SNS rather than relying on a standard SNS one.
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To be honest you are generating pretty good power already. In order to advise on what next, what system do you currently have?
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Likewise Leon, good to meet you the other week. In theory it will be getting mapped this weekend, however I'll believe it when I see it. Then you can come over and have a go in it :D
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I used a toothed belt system for a couple of months. Got through 2 belts in that time. Some people love them, some people don't - I didn't get on with mine, and have gone back to a normal system with a 65mm pulley, and I noticed no difference between that and the toothed system I have in terms of boost pressure.
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Looks really good mate - the soundproofing should make a big difference. As for the seats - I have black leather with grey alcantara and can vouch for thembeing a) very comfy, b) not making you slide around on them when cornering and c) being warm in winter unlike the all leather ones. :clap:
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Running in is going well thanks (well I hope it is anyway :lol: ). Done over a 1000 miles in it now, and am booked in with Surrey Rolling Road this weekend. Darren and Steve are coming over to do the last few bits then we are going to tune it :clap: :clap: One thing I have noticed - runs hotter then my old engine. Oil temps were 110 on the motorway, and they used to sit at 100 (I have a small Mocal on there). I presume this is usual for new engines due to the increased friction :shrug:
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Sorry, just a teaser to show them off :oops: . Didn't mean to imply they were for sale. I got them from Compomotive directly and they are 16 x 7.5 ET30. I seem to recall new they were around £140 ea. Good thing about the 16 inch MO's is there is masses of clearance inside if you ever want to go for bigger brakes. I'm currently using 315m discs and Porsche callipers and there is still plenty of room :eek:
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Welcome to the forum :D Did I hear black 5 spokes :lol: . I have Compomotive MO's which (I think) look the business. Yours looks fab, and black wheels woulddefinately suit it.
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Yep, I've fitted mine down there as well. Loads of space, and easy to drill holes in the wheel arch liner to let loads more air through. There are some pics in my gallery thread if you're interested.
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Well I was running a RPM head on mine which had done 140k and was getting 212bhp. Check the compression in the cylinders - if thats good then, hey, why not? :D :D
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Cheers Rob, looking forward to having it run in.
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Basically 1900 is simple (or as simple as a rebuild can be) and not much more in cost, 1940 is more complex and expensive, 2000 is very complicated/difficult/expensive. TSR do a 2l one, but that is based on a van engine, and there was something on here a while back about the oil squirters not being correct (amongst other potential flaws). As far as I am aware 1900 is the only one Darren does. Henny will have more info on the 1940, and I think Blue Joes old 2000 was done by RPM if memory serves me, who vowed they would never do it again :lol:
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I think realistic figures of around 250bhp and similar torque once everything is run in. To put it into context I got 212bhp from the old system which was 1800, original exhaust manifold, knackered green top injectors (the ones we pulled out had bits missing :shock: ), piper cam, and RPM head, and had done 140k miles. New system 1900, 4 branch, flowed throttle, Schrick cam, red tops, G-Werks CNC head, lightened and balanced crank and flyhweel, and a rolling road remap. Should be fun :D
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Cheers for the comments folks. Just trying to sort out some time on a rolling road to get it mapped at the mo. Fingers crossed will be a real beast when done. Have to drive for 1000miles 'off boost', which is really really hard. Yep the Schrick sump is baffled, has a greater capacity and higher surface area cooling fins. _Leon_, pictures wise looks excatly the same a standard, just slightly cleaner :lol:
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Just got back from Darrens after having a 1900 rebuild, with one of G-Werks CNC heads, Shrick sump, lightened flywheel and crank, 4 branch manfold and putting in my new box as well (G60/VR6/Peloquin hybrid), and and a recon steering rack. Just need to put 1000 miles on it now before I can get the redtops and Schrick cam in there ad get it remapped. Even though I can't put it on boost for 1000 miles, it feels very very strong and wants to pull even from 1100 revs. :D :D :D
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Welcome :wave: . If you really want to free your engine then you are looking at 2 other mods. Firstly get rid of the crappy side mount intercooler and get a fron tmount one (preferable from a Golf G60 as they are a direct fit). Secondly a flowed head, especially if you are going to use a modified cam. Assuming you are in the US, then Bahn Brenner would be your first port of call....
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You're welcome - credit where credit is due :D . Don't suppose you have a link where I could find out more about the amps? Tried searching and come come up with loads of museums, but nohing on musee amps :(
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As with all your work apaper - absolutely fabulous :D . Out of interest what are the amps and crossovers you've got in there - I don't recognise them, and they look really cool?
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1993 SLC: Front Door Speaker Baffle Enclosure_Step-by-Step
JMC replied to apaper's topic in ICE 'n' Secure
Cool, cheers for the advice apaper :D -
1993 SLC: Front Door Speaker Baffle Enclosure_Step-by-Step
JMC replied to apaper's topic in ICE 'n' Secure
Great piece of work.... Never seen the Dynamat spray stuff before (only ever used the sheets). Would that stuff be suitable for stiffening up th rear quarters I wonder :scratch: -
Thanks rolex, and lets hope so regarding the engine. Been without it for 3 days now and miss it :(
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Oooh, might be up for this (as he here's the sound of money). I did mine and am happy to have the odd burnt finger :lol: What were you thinking in terms of colours as some things (like red) work better than others due to the brightness of the LED's available. The only difficult one is the heated seat switch - I never found a way of doing that with and LED and resorted to colouring the glass of the bulb in the end.
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Thanks, and yes the new engine will be fun :D :D . Took the car down to G-werks yesterday, so just a mater of time :clap: . Also going in is a modified box with VR6 1st and 2nd and a peloquin, lightened flywheel, smoothed throttle body and 4 branch. Been acquiring parts for ages in preparation :lol: :lol: Interested to see what the extra 100cc's makes Junkie. If all goes to plan I should be along at the RR day (as a spectator only as I wont have run the engine in) so would be intrigued to pick your brains about the differences.
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Personal experience - don't bother with a toothed belt. I had one and got through 2 belts in a month. One brought the south circular to a standstill at 7PM on my GF's birthday (with her in the car) :shock: . Never again... Stick with a standard belt and fit a 65mm pulley. Another vote for an oil cooler (Mocal) and FMIC - keep an eye out for a Golf G60 one - fit without modification and look standard. Ideally a flowed head as well, and maybe even red tops (although I never needed them). Funnily enough I will have a flowed head available in a couple of weeks (made 212bhp on it) - shameless advert :lol: :lol: