JMC

Ok, I've started porting mine - attached, and yes this is just the first stage of porting hence it's still rough. Question for the experts - is the idea with this 1st part of the of the throttle body to make the diamater of the hole bigger or just smooth off the flat surfaces?? And why??

On the original pulley it's fine for 60k, however most have had smallers pulleys fitted to increase the speed of the charger. This leads to increased wear and tear though, so the service interval comes down. Some people do it themselves, but I'd recommend an expert for that - more for peace of mind than anything else. G-Werks can do them mail orer if you can bear to be without it for a few days. If it goes then it's a lot of money for replacement (£1k for a new one, 600 ish for a decent second hand one). The original G60 chip suffers from a bit of lag when you stick your foot down. The SNS chips are coded to get round that so they feel more responsive. Also if you have had a smaller pulley fitted it will cope better with teh right upgraded chip. SNS chips are better than Jabba ones as the Jabba's tend to over fuel hurting economy and giving you a nice black sooty exhaust. Hope that helps.

I can get 30mpg keeping it around 80 (on private roads of course - no one on here would advocate speeding on public highways). Round town its near 20-24 depending on congestion. Chargers are fine as long as they been looked at by somone reputable. Ideally G-Werks, and steer clear of Jabba as they charger work has gone downhill these days. Sevice intervals for the chargers are dependant on how heavy your right foot is and the size of the pulley. Expect to service it every 20k miles for the 65mm pulley, and 30k miles for a 68mm one, at about £500 per time, and definately do it straight away if you don't know its history. Other than that as long as they are kept healthy (oil change twice a year) there should be no reason why they are any less reliable than anything else. If it doesn't have an aftermarket chip you'll want an SNS chip - that will transform the car even without doing any other work to it.

I thought that looked like a sharp edge in there. Good watch out about porting through it though - sounds like the type of thing I would do :lol:

I'd heard that dewedging them could do that, so will probably avoid that then and stick to just porting and flowing the body of it. I can feel the weekend job coming along....

Basically it helps the flow of gas by removing obstructions, and therefore has the potential to improve power. I say potential as it really only works when everything has been flowed from what I can deduce. As I've had the inlet manifold and charger flowed and head work done, it seemed the next obvious thing for me to try, especially if I can do it myself.

Aha, so it looks asthough you took some off both side there, and took it down to a knife edge. Have you done anything with the butterfly vlaves themselves??

Cheers guys. Is it better to enlarge the entry to the small butterfly valve or the large one, or both?? Seen pictures of different variations on a theme with that.

As I've bought a spare G60 throttle body to port I was wanting to find out how people have taken these things apart to do the work. Especially thinking about separating the 2 halves, does all the micro switchgear, etc and butterfly vlaves have to come off as I don't want to get metal dust/swarf in to where it can cause any damage?? Any advice would be great, thanks...

Doh, wish I'd read this earlier. I have a few relays in the for sale section, one of which is your number 31, but I see you've already ordered one. Doh.

That should work (thats what I did with mine), although 'up' and 'down' and 'left' and 'right' will be reversed until you change them at the motor. Have you cleaned the contacts within the switch - if they're filthy it wont work??

Good lad, that is a bit special 8)

Autometer make a really good one. Reads vacuum as well as boost and reads from 0-20psi. Oh, and it doesn't have turbo plastered all over it which is a bonus. It's their sport comp series one.

Nice, like the look of those. Time to raid the piggy bank agin :D :D

Please can anyone with a 4 stud rado, who happens to currently have their front wheels off, measure and let me know the hub diameter. I'm having a set of brakes made and this is one measurement I need, and basically I dont want to take my discs and callipers off to get at it. Many thanks.....

I just got mine from VW - quoted the part number on the side of the box and they told me which fuse I needed. Will dig out the part number.... Interesting 506 B refers to a unit for towing, or warmer climate or automatic. Any of this ring any bells?? It looks as though the part number for the unit itself is 3A0 919 506 B, but that didn't come from a G60. There are 2 part numbers for the fuse N 017 125 1 and N 017 125 2. I think 1 is rated at 50A and 2 rated at 30A. Have a word with VW and see which one should be used with that control unit.

It's the fan control unit for the radiator fan. Have you noticed higher than normal running temperatures?? When mine blew (that little thin metal fuse) the temp would go alarmingly high before the fan kicked in.

Must be one of Dinkus' early prototypes.

I'm at Virgina Water - just up the M25 fom you. Let me know if you are planning on coming up this way, always a pleasure to meet a fellow rado owner.

That's OK, just though i would check (mainly as it got me the first time). You should be able to ease it forward alright when unclipped. You could try and get your hand round the back (ooh er, missus) and keep everything in place when you move it. Although you should be OK (please note disclaimer - any problems arising as a result of this advice are not the fault of the advisee)..... Good luck with it.

Just to check, have you unclipped the fuse box. It wont pull forward unless you do that. Have a search on here, there is a thread on it somewhere. EDIT - here it is....http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3933&hilit=fusebox

It does declutter things a bit removing it. Word of advice though, if you want to keep your engine bay clean, you'll want some way of getting the output from the bottom of the throttle body, and the ISV and oil breather out of the engine bay or through a filter, otherwise you'll end up with a nice film of oil over everything.

Personaly I didn't see much difference when I used it. Maybe that's my driving style, but my rolling road tests with and without showed very similar results (a year apart mind you, and different ambient conditons). Each to their own though, maybe someone who likes the sound of the "whoosh" - I definately enjoyed it for a while, or someone keen to not have hot air would love it, and there are definately many who still have them. So as I say, if it floats your boat then use it but don't expect astronomical increases in power...

I've used one for about a year. In the end the constant whistle bugged me and I got a silencer kit (which improved things drastically). I got a catch tank initially, but still got a mist of oil vapour in the engine. When I got the silencer that had a feed into it for the oil breather and ISV and that improved things a bit. Here's a picture of the silencer. Drop me a PM if you're interested in it as I was about to put it up for sale along with the plate for blanking off the charger (the second hose from the oil breather should't be there by the way - I just hadn't removed it when I took the picture). I've gone back to the old recirc system though now (must be getting old, :lol: )

That's OK mate. Just to check, that funny rounded, inverted rectangle shaped bit need to be pulled towards you before you try and turn it (it's locked in place when it's pushed in). It pops out a few mm's and then you should be able to turn it. If you can't turn it even then, then the chances are everything is really, really gummed up. best to just disconnect the spoiler for a while until you get it fixed.