JMC

Probably not the news you wanted to hear, but shortly after I got my One it started doing that. In the end it went back to TomTom, but they couldn't fix it (!!) and Halfords gave me a new one. Took about a month to get it sorted though. Fingers crossed your problem is more easily fixed...

Thanks to Azz Turbo for a set of sunvisors. Really good price, well packaged and good to deal with. Cheers again...

Yep, that should do the trick as I mentioned above as the output curves and voltages can be tweaked idependantly for the 2 outputs of the LC-1. That's what I'll be doing with mine. Of course you could just buy a gauge made for the LC-1 which is already setup for it (got one with mine and it was only about $80 more).

Whoa, that's useful to know - a mate of mine was thinking about HiSpecs for his Mk4 Golf. Think he better read that first. Thanks yalan...

Nah, not boring and they look alright on a black one too :D :D

It's not too bad a job, apart from a) the captive nuts, and b) actually untangling it from the boot mechanism and rear wiper - you need about 6 arms. Took me about an hour to get out. If you're free this weekend and can make your way towards J13 of the M25 I can take you through it (I even have most of the bits of spare mechanism laying around as I bought a spare when I did mine).

Yep, it's possible and has been covered before (about 15 articles down the list - the locked one about "late switches into and earlier interior" for example).

But the LC-1 has 2 outputs, and the levels and curve shapes for both can be set independantly. Therefore I was thinking - 1 runs the gauge, the other the ECU. In theory that should work....

Red, but that's the colour they came in as they're Boxster ones 8)

I'd be intrigued to know this as well, if anyone can shed any light. I've got an LC-1 for an AFR but was going to add a second boss and keep the original probe for the ECU, but it would be good to know if the ECU can use the wideband....

Those are really cool models.

You can wind it down manually from inside the boot though, so at least you can stop it looking silly. Does operating the switch lead to a clicking noise from the spoiler. If so it is still getting power and is probably the inside of the mechanism which has got gunked up. It is fairly easy to take it out and clean it if this is the case, just a bit time consuming (and with the chnace of shearing off a captive nut, doh). Have a look on the search for info if that's the case as it has been covered lots before.

I get about 11psi at full tilt. That's with a 65mm pulley, Golf G60 intercooler and a flowed big valve head. As long as your happy with the state of your charger, then there's probably nothing to worry about flusted.

I believe the standard ones are M10, but can't remember if they are 1 or 1.5 pitch. Best check with Darren on that one. Remember though if you want to do this, any tapered thread will need to be plumbers taped to stop it leaking.

Tim at the Phirm had one laying around when I got it fitted. Demon tweeks do them as well I think (seem to recall seeing them in their catalogue). They also just pipe fittings, so if you have a local supplier for those they should be able to help. I think from memory the standard threead in the block is 10mm, as is the original sender, and the other hole needs to be whatever the sender from your oil pressure gauge is tapped to (mine was designed for the US market, so typically was imperial rather than metric, doh). You'll need teflon tape (plumbers tap) as well on the threads as they are tapered and wont seal without it.

oooh, so this in one of the VW mags then?? Wouldn't mind geting a copy of that.

Here's a couple of pics for you of where the sender goes. Remarkably difficult to get an image in there. Basically though you need to put an adapter in where the oil sensor is, just to the right of the supercharger support bracket. Then screw the original sender back in along with the new oil pressure gauge sender. Hopefully this will all make sense....

Will sort you out a pic tomorrow. My AFR didn't work at first - dodgy lambda probe (and the fact that the garage that had installed it had connected it to the wrong wire - muppets). I've noticed with mine that it takes 5 min or so to warm up. Have you checked the output of your lambda probe when warm and idling - voltage should bounce around once a second or so.

Here you go for the windows.....http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27329&highlight= As for the mirrors there is a section in the knowledge base... http://the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/Wiring_Late_electric_mirror_switches_to_early_loom

Done it and have a look with the search - there are a few threads on this (waits for a mod to come along.......)

I'd advise an eletrical rather than mechanical. You'll need a 3 way connector as it goes where the sender is on the block (I can get a picture if you need). Basically screw in the adaptor and then screw the original sender and the new new sender in to the adapter. If they're tapered threads (which they should be)make sure you use teflon tape otherwise you'll get oil leaks, and make sure none of the teflon gets over the end of the sender.

There's a pipe just behind the instruments, leading to the back of the cluster which you can just a put a t-piece in. Makes it an easy job. Don't bother with electrical boost pressure gauges (which need a separate sender). Autometer makes a good one which read full vacuum to 20psi.

To be honest mate a narrow band wont show you a great deal and will spend most of it's time stuck on stoichiometric. If you want it to actually keep an eye on things you're better of with a wideband gauge (AEM, and Innovate make them, as I'm sure do a few others).

Probably need to know a bit more about the car before saying whether or not you should but it (mileage, did the previous owner take care of it, history, has the charger been serviced and by whom). As for the G60's having a lot of problems, that's mainly down to not maintaining the charger. Really needs the charger looked at ever 30k miles if it has a 68mm pulley, and every 20k on a 65mm. Jabbasport ones tend to have more issues with them than G-werks ones as well. If the charger is well maintained then they are no worse than anything else. Put up some more details about it and I'm sure some other people will be along with advice.

This is something that can happen after fitting a stereo (or fiddling under the dash in general). I seem to remember the same happened to mine. It's something to do with the signal wire to the spoiler activation unit being earthed. If it's earthed it causes the speed activation to stop working. Try a search as that's how I found out what was wrong with mine. I'll also have a look and post up the link if I find anything. Edit: have a look here for starters..... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11545&hilit=+spoiler+stopped+spoiler+stereo