JMC

There was someone on Dubforce that mentione that the ISV vents a small amout of boost above 5600, so that it's not on full boost when you hit the rev limiter. That would explain whats happening, and I've PM'd the guy for a few more details (for instance is this just with standard chips, or is it with custom mapped cars as well), so lets see if he comes back with anything. I'll report back if I hear anything, but if anyone else has thoughts on this, please chip in....

Cheers Darren - see you at No-Rice. iow_corrado_g60, did stealth give you a plot of boost vs. revs as well, and if so did that drop at the same time as the power??

Cheers Mike, looks like it's time to get the hands dirty again :D I came across a thread last night which (from beavis, I think) mentioning that chipped cars tend to show up the weaknesses of the old sensors, specifically the hall, knock, and co pot. Will have to look into this as well, I think....

Has anyone else had their G60's rolling roaded, and do you see the power curve flattening off above 5000, with a big drop above 5600??...

Thanks for the responses folks, keep 'em coming. Mike - strange that it only leaks above a certain rev point though, as it's spending most of the time before then around 0.8bar, and then it's a real quick drop. Flusted - ISV was my first thought, perhaps it's venting, thinking that the mixture is going lean?? It has been mapped, but the ISV does vent boost if pinking is detected, if I recall. Wonder if it is going too lean at the top end??

Here you go, bit shaky though (trying to hold the camera for a 1s exposure at night is not fun). This is with the dimmer turned up to it's brightest (I run it slightly turned down usually, as it stops the invertor humming, and prolongs the life of the electroluminescent displays).

Yep, I left the bulbs in and took the green filter out. I painted the needles with som form of UV fluorescent paint (can't for the life of me remember where I got it though) as I was going to use UV led's instead of the bulbs. TBH I don't think the UV stuff has made difference to how it looks with the bulbs. Leaving the bulbs in gives enough light for the needles without being overpowering. Also fitted the chrome rings and changed the LCD's to red. I think it looks OK :D

OK folks, here's another question. When I get to high revs (above 5600) my G60's boost pressure suddenly drops (see the graph below), down to a very static 0.6bar. Now what could be causing this?? I thought boost pressure should climb gradually throughout the rev range (or is that just wishful thinking). Just for info, it's with a ported and flowed big valve head, running a piper 285 cam.

Cheers guys, yep, that is me lurking in the back of PVW. :D :D Strangely enough, I had no idea it was going to be in there - only picked up the mag this month because of The Phirms car, as they were putting it together last time I was there. Nice surprise though 8) ... Good to see you again too Rog, and congrats on the performance that day.

Wouldn't surprise me as I understand it richens up the mixture AFAIK.

I have a narrow band AFR attached to the lambda for the ECU. It was that the alerted me to the fact that the old lambda was dying/dead, as it had stopped oscillating on idle and partial throttle. Hopefully the front engine mount is OK (it's a solid one), although the old lambda has been intermittent over the last few months. New one seem happy though :D Think it was just bad timing that it gave out on the rolling road day :(

Cheers Henny, Is the limp home mode reset as soon as the voltage returns to the high value though?? (I seem to recall mentioned that unlike the VR6 ECU the G60 one don't need to be specially reset).

Ah, so the lambda should only really be used when on closed loop with a partially open throttle, and not at WOT. The lambda was definatly dead, as replacing it has made the AFR go back to cycling on idling and part throttle.

Here's a question for all you engine experts. About 6 months ago I had my G60 custom mapped, and felt a huge increase in mid range torque, and (again) it felt more powerful at the top end as well. Went to the Surrey rolling road day recently with high hopes for an increase over last year, and the peak power and torque was almost identical to the previous run, but with an obviously increase in mid range torque. So, mixed results. On the way home I noticed that my AFR, had stopped doing the usual cycling on idle, and was basically stuck on the rich side of things, even when accelerating, and the car was feeling a bit sluggish. Changed the lambda probe, and (not surprisingly) the car feels more lively again, and the AFR has gone back to cycling. Sooo, the question is - would a dodgy lambda probe cause the car to go into some form of 'limp home' mode, making the mixture rich, and would that have resulted in it feeling sluggish, and the (mediocre) rr day result??

Replaced my dead lambda probe - now all happy again. Also recently fitted the DDI sills, and mirrors, and SNS gear knob, and smaller aerial. Nice to be back working on it again :)

Cheers g60greeny, they were $85 plus shipping from Canada (via surface mail which took 6 weeks :shock: ). Not cheap but they look to be pretty good quality.

Started fitting my DDI sills today. Nice quality brushed aluminium finish, but atrocious adhesive. Had to strip the adhesive off with white spirit before attaching using double sided trim tape.

Bought some DDI sills a couple of months back and finally got around to starting to fit them. For anybody thinking about buying a set, they are nice quality, although it has to be said that the adhesive on the back of them was absolutely atrocious, and had to be removed before I managed to use double sided trim tape to attach them.

I had a switch of mine do this (early style switch), after I took it apart to change the bulb (doh). Turned out to be one of the contacts getting slightly out of position so that the second click didn't make contact with the dipped beams, just the side lights (I fixed mine in then end - toom about 10 mins). If you're happy enough taking the switch apart you can check that out yourself.

It charges up whilst left in the cigarette lighter, and is very, very bright for such a small torch. Typically though it is made to fit the later style slightly smaller diameter VW cigarette lighters, hence I needed to it a Mk4 Golf one.

That's OK Russ, good luck with it, and post up the results when you're done.

To make sure everything sat flat with no wrinkles, I had to make the coverings out of multiple pieces of fabric. So I made paper templates first to make sure everything would fit together right. I then cut out the fabric roughly and tack stitched it together again to make sure it would fit over the trim and sit flat (cutting it all very slightly smaller than needed so the the stretch would make it sit flat). Then stitched it properly, mounted a 2mm thick layer of foam over everything to give it a bit of spring and stuck the fabric covers down. What's the nylon loop stuff used for - the fixing of the fabric on to the trim?? I've never used that before.

Thanks Blackg60, took about 4 nights, needle and thread and 1 meter of grey alcantara. Did the gear surround, handbrake tunnel, and recovered my sub box so it would all match. I got bored with the old plastic look too 8)

Couple of small bits added recently - SNS gear knob (slightly more aesthetically pleasing than my old Momo one, although actually not any heavier). Also fitted DDI blue tint mirrors. Just got these from Anh's latest batch - both sides seem to be convex (passenger side only slightly and the drivers side quite a lot). Should hopefully improve visibility and reduce the infamous blind spot. Really must get out there and do something major to the car again...

Nah, don't worry about it mate. Suppose it serves me right for letting the gf drive the car. It was absolutely typical timing as well - the car was full to the brim with stuff we were taking to her new flat. Doh. Still at least it got fixed quickly.