JMC

Had a fun afternoon working on this. Stripped the door, removed the old moisture barrier, actually removed the factory sound deadening sheet from the door, as there were more air pockets behind it than there were bits attached. So after copious cleaning of the metalwork (and cuts and scrapes to knuckles and hands) the Skinz went in on the outer panel, followd by the Wave Diffuser sheet behind the speaker and a load of neoprene over the rest of the Skinz. Then I tried using the Rhino Skinz where the moisture barrier should go. Nasty, nasty stuff. Maybe it wasn't warm enough when I used it, but it cracked and split, and did it's best to ruin my afternoon. Anyway, eventually got it done and everything sounds very nice now. The door gives a good "thunk" on closing and the speaker sounds good. All I need now is another spare day to do the other door :roll:

Cheers Deluk, since I wrote this I've bought a Precision Power 500W sub amp, and I'm most impressed with the results. Not much more volume strangely but it's much punchier and drops a bit lower in frequency as well. Beter option than using the Profile 4 to do the job.

Cheers Gixxeruk, got the feeling it would be a bit of a scraper. Might be a good time to invest in a heat gun as well - especially trying to do it at this time of year. Looking forward to the solid "clunk" on closing the doors....

Just out of interest how much of a pain is it to put the sound deadening on the outer skin of the door (i.e. reaching through the holes on the inner skin) - I get the feeling it is not easy to get at, especially with all the electric window gubbins.....

Cool, look forward to getting it all done Darren. Just wish I had a nice warm garage to work in now.....

Ah ha, looks like the identity of the 'covering' has been discovered. Cheers coolrado... Looked as though it should be a seal of some sort. Not really a covering though (damn ETKA descriptions....). Strange that my local VW garage said it was not present on UK cars.

Thanks Corradokid135, been putting off doing the doors given the level of hassle involved in prepping and using the sound deadening on the outside skin of he door. But I feel it is now time to do it properly....

New toys have arrived from Audioscape - 8 sheets of Skinz sound deadener, some of the prep spray for the metal work, Rhino Skinz door kit (to replace the moisture barrier), moisture guard to go behind the speaker (acoustically transparent moiture barrier), and the wave diffuser to go on the outside skin of the door behind the speaker. Thought it was about time I did the doors as I've already done the boot, rear quarters, under the rear seat, some of the floor and firewall. Looks like it could be a fun Christmas after all :D :D

Here's the image from ETKA (along with a blow up of the piece in question). It does look to me as though it should go along the top of the dash. Thought I was going mad - maybe it goes underneath the dash :?

Yeah, I got the distinct impression that what I was sent by VW should have lived under the bonnet rather than along the dash. The mystery cover appears on ETKA and goes all the way along from one end of the dash to the other (i.e. not the centre grill). After talking with VW they said "yep, this 'cover' was only on German, not UK cars". The mystery deepens...

Lisa, I've been going to Darren since I bought my G60 about 2 and half years ago. Never had anything but good service from him. Occasionally been to other garages, when I've not been able to make it down to G-Werks and have quite frankly been dissapointed with the level of service I've got. Darren and the G-Werks crew have always got the time to talk through options for your car and wont try and sell you things you don't need. Overall a big :thumbleft:

The part finally arrived, and it was a bit of a let down really. There was I expecting a nice, shiny, solid cover, and all it was was something that looked like it belonged under the bonnet. The part number is what is should be from ETKA, so ho hum

Connected up my new Precision Power sub amp to the Rainbow Amboss. Sounds really nice, although I still have a bit of tweeking to get the best out of it. The nice chaps at Audioscape alos sorted me out with a gril for the sub (which they have now got for sale folks, if like me you're concerned about sticking something sharp through your precious sub). Amazed at how little space the sub takes up. More soundproofing goodies on the way from Audioscape for the Christmas project......

Finally hooked up my Precision power amp to the Rainbow Amboss sub today - must say sounds very good seeing as how the amp was only £120. The Audioscape sub boxes are fantastic quality, and they have even started making grills for the 10" Rainbows, just to save muppets like me from putting things through the cones......

Yep, I'd go with that 8)

Mounted the new amp in the car today (in between the rain showers). Had to move my Profile 4 over to make space for it :shock: Just waiting on the last of my wiring to turn up and then I can wire it in (looking forward to that).

Think it's going to be the back of the rear seat Dom. Typically though I have my Profile 4 on the back of the larger of the two seats at the moment. That's going to have to be moved to the smaller one, and this thing mounted in its place. Ordered a few more supplies to day (cabling, distribution block etc). Looking forward to this, think I might try and find a way to re-use my Focal 5WS's to give some mid bass as part of a three way system along with my front components. Time for thinking cap.....

Just had this arrive in the post today. Precision Power 500.1 sub amp, ready to power my Rainbow Amboss sub. Though it was about time I tried to put together a decent SQ car, as I have most of the bits now. First thing though is to find somewhere I can mount this thing, without losing most of my boot. This is their smallest sub amp as well :shock: Think I will have to mount it with the end caps off.... By the way if anyone is interested I bought this from from F1 Sound Gallery for £120 :shock: (0121 541 1500, talk to Greg about this).....

To all you Audioscape sub box owners, how do you keep the box in place (the bottom of mine keeps slipping into the boot by about an inch). Don't really want to fix anything solid in to the boot - would a strip of velcro be enough to stop it sliding???? :?

Cheers Rog, usually takes about a second to light - so it's not an 'instant on'. Not noticable really when opening the boot, unless you've got a really quick action :D It doesn't flicker either, does straight from off to on. This was my first experience with neons, so don't know whether they all work like this. I was thinking reds or some small red leds for my foot wells, but it means I'll have to keep the car neater :roll: (plus I'll need a separate on-off switch for when they're not needed).

Fitted an Audioscape sub box and 10" Rainbow Amboss sub recently. Nice sound, but only running it off the Genesis Profile 4 at the moment (sub amp on its way :D :D ) so not sounding at its best yet. Of course, lost the boot light with doing this, so decided to go the neon route and fit one on the other side. Picked up one of Ebay for about £5 and fitted it today. Really happy with the results :D :D .... Not obvious at all, from a glance in the boot, but gives a good even glow at night.

Something that Slats (thanks Slats) said has got me thinking. I've got this sub wired in series, so running 4 ohms (with it being dual 2 ohm voice coils). I'm using this bridged on my Genesis sub, so I am actually only putting a fraction of the power through this that it can cope with. Does anyone else use dual voice coil 2 ohm subs with a bridged multi channel amp, and if so are you getting any volume out of it??? Answers on a postcard please (or the thread will do).

Pau1, the company is called Woolies (e-mail http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk, tel 01778 347347). They are based in Market Deeping near Peterborough. The paint is called Vinylkote, and they sell it along with Vinylkleen and Vinylprep for (not surprisingly) cleaning and prepping the surface. This allows the paint to penetrate the surface and give a resilient coating. I've used it on the rear speaker holders, the trim on the inside of the tailgate (all slightly textured), and the front kick panels, and it's bearing up quite well. Apparently they can colour match if necessary.

I've used stuff from (don't laugh) Woolies, who are clssic car restorers. Thye sell, and plastic cleaner, plastic prep and paint, and it actually eats into the top layer of plastic to give a really tough finish. Not cheap though. I've used it to respray loads of interior trim and send it from grey to black....

Cheers for the advice folks. Just realised I messed around with the sensitivity settings when I was using my tiny little subs (DOH!!). Think that has to be my first port of call (when I can actually get some time to work on the car in daylight).